Everyone very close to finishing all the welding on the car and just got the new seat pedestals yesterday from D&R and wanted to know if they should be spot welded or if they were seam welded in spots. The original floor they were seam welded (lap welded) and spot welded but who knows if thats how it left the factory. and help would be appreciated getting close to sanding time
Good 1/4" plug welds with deep penetration is all you need. I used a punch to pop out all the plug welding holes. Drilling will cause distortion in the mount flanges and then you'll need dollying to straighten it back out to match the floor's contour. Double-check the alignment around the subframe cagenut hole and weld away.
Just finsihed welding these took about 30 minutes each and straight forward. My air hammer worked perfect for contouring just right. Now just to weld up the blind nut area under the a piller for the fender attach point and all done with welding
Door skins will hopefully straight foward. I have to decide weather or not glue em or weld like factory. I really dont want to buy the glue applicator for 60 bucks for one use. but may have no choice?
I have tons of fab experience / welding as I do that for living so this project has been fun though as I get older its harder on crawl under these cars
The skinless door shell should be mounted on the car and fit to the adjacent panels, twisting if needed. With the skin then mounted and loosely hemmed, make final adjustments, then hem completely. If welding is not chosen, gluing will seal the hems well, just buy adhesive with adequate open time. Someone at Team Chevelle with a time manufacturing machine converted a standard caulk gun to dual cartridge. Dual cartridge tool price depends how tight you are with your jobber.
For those who don't have a good hole punch like a Roper Whitney, drilling holes will not distort a flange. Just predrill with a .125" bit and follow with a step drill. Pneumatic hole punches have limitations and make holes too close to the panel edge.