k so about the trunk pan, its a full pan i want to put in with new frame rails but i am not sure how to keep the body strength secure when removing the parts, the rockers are slightly rotted but they seem strong, i mean im all over that car in the summer with my hands in at it trying to remove more stuff from the car but besides that there is not much room in my garage so i will be bringing it to my work. my boss says he will flat bed it over for free whenever i want it over there and i can use the welders as long as i pay for the material used.
i can also push it onto a hoist as well... but i need to save space so it does not interrupt other cars and work. any ideas? like welding bars places?
also, how can i replace that cardboard in the roof so i can rip the old stuff out and get at the underside of the roof and check for rust. is there a place i can get new cardboard for the roof?
Easy stuff first... the factory-style roof insulation is not repro'd, and you're better off using an aftermarket sound deadener/insulator anyway... such as Hush Mat, Dynamat Extreme, or Fat Mat, etc... They are self-adhesive and work great for that purpose.
When you decide to remove that factory roof insulation, be sure to wear goggles, gloves and a mask. It will get everywhere-- no matter how neat you are. I used a shop vac held right behind my scraper so it would catch most of the debris, but it still required an intensive clean up. It basically peels right off, but there will be a residue to clean off as well before applying the new sound deadener.
Next--- as far as transporting your Camaro to the shop when you wish to work on it, -- do you mean each time you work on it, or just the first time to get it over there for the entire resto? Moving the car around without proper bracing so often, will definitely get things out of whack and possible cause twisting, etc... not recommended.
If I were you, I'd first blast the entire shell, coat it in epoxy, and then make a more-informed assessment of what needs to be replaced at that time-- since everything will be one color, and clearer to see. It will also keep the car safe from future rusting while you work on it.... and trust me-- it can take a while to complete. --sometimes years... so the epoxy will buy you some time and add protection to the remaining good metal.
***Also-- while you're blasting the shell... if you know you are replacing a certain panel, DON'T bother blasting it. Why waste the time, right? Seems obvious, but I figured I'd mention it...
Personally, I started with the base of the car for strength and worked my way up. Replace or patch the rockers first. Then move onto the frame rails and trunk floor next. After the rockers are completed, they will provide a solid resting point for the jackstands, or body cart you may use to support the car's shell. You can remove the frame rails and trunk pan in one piece to save time too. That will also retain your reference measurements so you have a better idea of what goes where. Of course, using new repro parts in a rebuild always involves change, so nothing will most likely be identical anyway... Supporting the car by the rockers will be perfect for replacing the trunk and rails. that's how I did it on my '69.
Are you also replacing the inner and outer wheel houses?