1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28 - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 07, 06:37 AM Thread Starter
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Jim
 
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1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

A neighbor has a 71 camaro for sale, has z28 badges. He doesnt know much about cars and has had the car for a long time. On a 71, what should I look for to determine if it is a true Z or just has the badging?
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 07, 07:00 AM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

Look at the trim tag on the cowl. It is located on the drivers side just below the windshiled. You should see either Z28.19 or Z28.10 stamped on the tag.

1971 Z28 Carburetor (780 cfm Holley) - A/T: List 4800, GM # 3989022 | 4 spd: List 4801, GM # 3989021

Transmission & Clutch: Mandatory choice of Muncie 4-speeds & 11 inch clutch. Hurst Shifter. Special 2400-rpm-stall torque converter Turbo Hydra-Matic optional. (Identical to 1970.)

Rear Axle: GM 10 bolt, 3.73:1 Positraction ratio standard. 4.10 available (ZQ9)
12 bolt no longer offered, heavy duty u-joints included with Z28 package.

Brakes: 11-inch, vented, cast-iron front discs with vacuum assist standard. Rear 9.5-inch drums. (identical to 1970)

Front Suspension: Z-28 anti-roll bar 1.0-inch diameter instead of standard 0.6875-inch unit. (identical to 1970)
Rear Suspension: RPO F-41 special suspension standard, including 5-leaf rear springs, 125 lb./in. spring rate, staggered heavy-duty shocks, link-type rear stabilizer bar (unchanged from 1970).

Steering: The 22.5:1 unassisted gear became standard, with variable-ratio power steering now at 15.5-11.8:1 for all Camaros-not quite as fast as 1970.

Wheels & Tires: 15 x 7 steel wheels painted dull grey with bright lugnuts, center caps with blue bow-tie and trim rings,
Wheel Code: AU, Part #: 3983045, Center cap part #: 3989479, Trim Ring part #: 3984524.
F60-15 fiberglass-belted white letter tires standard. (unchanged from & identical to 1970)

It's impossible to have a valid certificate of authenticity without verifying that it is not a rebody.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 07, 08:21 AM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

Everything Hylton said, plus:

If it was a California car (BL), there will be no Z28. or 28. code on the TTag. More often than not, the Z was left out on the NOR cars, so you have 28.10 etc.

In 1971 the Z28's still got the floor mounted gas pedal. They are repoping them, but you can usually see that they are not original.

Good Luck, especially if it's got the LT1, that is one BAD engine!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 07, 08:49 AM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

Quote:
Originally Posted by rich pern View Post
Good Luck, especially if it's got the LT1, that is one BAD engine!
Rich is that 'BAD" as in it's a good engine or "BAD" as in stay away from the LT1?
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 07, 08:53 AM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

LT1 is a great engine, in 1970 360 hp, 11/1 compression, solid lifters etc.. 70 Zs are the best ones ever made IMO.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 07, 10:24 AM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

www.nastyz28.com for 2nd gen stuff

all that aside, 8k tach on a 71 Z28

LA built car (L in VIN) will NOT have Z28 on cowl tag

ALL 71 Z28 will have the floor hinged gas pedal (70 & 71)

plus:

short rear spoiler is standard, the tall 3 piece was optional in 71

aluminum spacers under front lower control arm bump stops, rear bumper guards, rear sway bar

NO a/c until 73

IF an auto, it is a Turbo 400 (diff crossmember)

everybody put Z28 emblems on Camaros

only the good stuff makes em one .. :-)
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 07, 10:36 AM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

And it's LT-1 (70 to 72 model years) , not to be confused with LT1 (92 to whenever)...

Eric
69 'vert project big block/TKO 600 RR
68 'vert driver RS clone -- gone!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 07, 11:47 AM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

We sure have a lot of second generation experts here for a primarily first generation site.
But not one person has mentioned what, for me at least, would be the single most important and first thing to check.

The Z/28 LT1 engine code needs to be CGP for a stick shift or CGR for an automatic car, and of course number matching and date code correct.

That will tell you if it IS a Z, the other stuff will tell you if it WAS a Z.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 07, 04:46 PM
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Exclamation Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

Quote:
Originally Posted by 68 Ragtop View Post
We sure have a lot of second generation experts here for a primarily first generation site.
But not one person has mentioned what, for me at least, would be the single most important and first thing to check.

The Z/28 LT1 engine code needs to be CGP for a stick shift or CGR for an automatic car, and of course number matching and date code correct.

That will tell you if it IS a Z, the other stuff will tell you if it WAS a Z.
IF the original engine was damaged WHEN the car was NEW, it would NOT have that code on the block, it would have a CE block

the BODY will ALWAYS be a Z28 IF it was one when it was born, it will still be a Z28, but ONLY if it was one when it was born ...
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Nov 23rd, 07, 08:47 PM
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Re: 1971 Z28- How can you identify true Z28

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Man View Post
Rich is that 'BAD" as in it's a good engine or "BAD" as in stay away from the LT1?

"BAD" as in butt kicking good. "Bad", would have been stay away.......
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