Guldstrand Mod ?? - Team Camaro Tech
Brakes, Suspension & Steering Conversion questions, Steering & Handling

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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 02:53 AM Thread Starter
 
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Hi
Im about to do the the Guldstrand Mod,and I see that the relocation template dont match my A arm mount holes to frame measurments.

From the frame and up to the front hole,I measures 3,26",the template shows 3,5".

From the frame and up to the rear hole It`s 2,095",the template shows 2,25".

This is the LH side,the RH is closer to template.

My question is: should I use the Frame As Reference for height ,or the stock holes in the A arm mount.?? Will the A arm sit too low if I use the holes??

I have welded a jig and the mount will be trimmed in the bottom and moved 1/2"rear.

Thanks for any help..

OK
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 07:17 AM
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Matt
 
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oddrod,
Where did you get the template. I bought mine originally from Guldstrand, and yes the template was off. I actually redrafted the template in AutoCad and printed it out so that the center bolt measurements are exactly 6.5". My template has the hole measured from the center of the stock mounting holes to the center of the new hole so that they are .875" lower in the front, .775" lower from the rear, and set back .25" toward the rear of the car. So I would suggest going off of the stock holes because I have also found that not all tolerances used when manufacturing the frame were stricltly adhered to (ask me how I know ).

Bing
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1956 Chev 150 2dr sedan 302ci
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1967 Chev Camaro 327ci
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2002 Chev 2500HD
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 08:49 AM
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The 6.5" is the key. You need to open the image file in a program that will let you resize it, such a photdeluxe or photoshop. Resize it and print it over and over until the center to center on the holes is 6.5" on the print.

I cut out the original hole locations on the templlate, and just slid it over the existing bolts.

Be very careful as far as which side is which!! Once the first side is marked, the template needs to move to the other side IN THE SAME Orientation, don't let it flip over. The side that was against the a-arm bracket on the drivers side will be open to air on the pass side.

There is a post from last week, detailing another members trials with this, with pictures of a couple that are done

JimM's firstgens.com Camaro Board

Jimragtop.com New website for my vert is coming together. Do ya like the slide show on the home page?
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 09:49 AM
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Here is the post, yeah Jim it was me!

Guldstrand Mod - What the ..........?

Bing
1923 T-bucket 406ci
1956 Chev 150 2dr sedan 302ci
1965 Chev Malibu 2dr hdtp 496ci
1967 Chev Camaro 327ci
2001 Harley XL1200C
2002 Chev 2500HD
2005 Chev 1500
2007 Harley FLSTC
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 12:39 PM
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Thought so, did you get through it?

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 01:04 PM
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Matt
 
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I still haven't whacked off the ears yet. But the holes are all drilled and I mocked everything up so I could mark where I need to cut and grind. Just got to get over the fact that cutting will mess up the powdercoat, and then jump in and get it done. I'll probably finish this week, so I can get all of the subframe back together and bolted down. The rest of my Z06 brake parts should be here by Wednesday, so that will be good motivation.

Bing
1923 T-bucket 406ci
1956 Chev 150 2dr sedan 302ci
1965 Chev Malibu 2dr hdtp 496ci
1967 Chev Camaro 327ci
2001 Harley XL1200C
2002 Chev 2500HD
2005 Chev 1500
2007 Harley FLSTC
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hi
Thanks for all the replies..

The template did i download from David Pozzi page, it is printed out and it is perfect.
The holes Is 6,5" apart.The measurment are typed on the template.
It is my frame and mounts that is the problem.

Using the template and lower the front hole 1" and the rear 0,8" I am afraid that the A arm shaft will be to close to the frame.
The rear hole will be 1,3" over the frame and the front hole will be ca 2,2" over.

I'm just worried that when i have cut down the mount and rewelded it,the A Arm interferes with the frame or something.

Ok

[ 12-15-2004, 01:56 AM: Message edited by: oddrod ]
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 13th, 04, 03:32 PM
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Oddrod,

Before you cut or drill anything, measure where the new locations for the holes will be in relation to where they are now, mark them with a Magic Marker on the towers, then place the a-arm (with the cross-shaft in place) against the two marks and check for interference.
That way, it'll help you decide right where things need to be cut.
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 04, 06:46 AM
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Quote:
I'm just worried that when i have cut down de mount and rewelded it,the A Arm interferes with the frame or something.
Does that mean you're going to do this by cutting off the entire mounting bracket, trimming the bottom, and welding it back on the frame?

If it's a yes, then that is by far the best way, as well as the hardest, it will leave you with a completely stock looking frame, but it has to be done completely differently.

is this how you're doing it?

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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 04, 08:53 AM
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you don't have to cut the ears if you use tubular control arms

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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 04, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
 
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I Have made a jig and cut off the entie mounting bracket,and are about to trim the bottom of it.
I have good control with everything,its just that the mesurment printed on the template is not the same when it comes to frame to holes height.


Ok
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 04, 03:54 PM
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try david pozzi motor sports or look at the pro tour site in there tech section

the wonderfull thing about cars is the ability to admire each persons build and that it could be someones life long dream .
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 04, 06:32 PM
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Do some more searching here, odd, and studdy David's site real close. I remember people have done this by removing and trimming the brackets, then welding them back on... the details are fuzzy, I just drilled and cut.

What I'd do, is start with the tallest side, measure the difference in hole locations on the template, then measure and cut off that much from the bottom of the bracket, cut will be at an angle, cause the holes don't drop the same amount. Then measure how far back they go, and that's how far you shift the bracket back then you weld it back on.

For the shorter side, I'd measure from the holes on the side you just did, and use that #, then they should turn out even. You'll cut less off the short side.

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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 14th, 04, 08:17 PM
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I measured the template, then measured down from the holes and scribed lines on the mount and cut that amount off the mount as low as possible.

There is a small difference between the measurements I have and what Tom, Chicane67 got from Guldstrand's blueprints when he worked there.

He feels the difference is significant. I haven't modeled the difference it would make, but feel a slight bit more camber change wouldn't hurt if I am the one who is "wrong".

There have been questions asked about whether the Guldstrand mod is ideal or if a lower position would be "even better". I tend to discourage going lower than Guldstrand deemed "best" but it has been a long long time since those holes were determined and tires have changed a lot since then.

Anyway, I'm not so sure there is a big difference to be seen between the two but be aware my measurements are more agressive.
David

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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old Dec 15th, 04, 12:05 AM Thread Starter
 
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JimM,You meen using the frame as a refrence point for height?
I was about to use the old hole locations and follow the template and see where it gets me.
Its very difficult to try the A arm on,because of the jig.

Ok
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