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chrome trim around windows, doors, and reveal molding on original 1968

9K views 17 replies 12 participants last post by  AndTom68 
#1 ·
Does anyone know what these are made of? Are they solid stainless steal?
 
#13 ·
I am working on buffing out the original windshield, back glass, and reveal moldings and was wondering if you can sand the deeper scratches. buffing only on a bench grinder is taking forever!
Yes, with the proper buffing wheels & compounds, you can sand the deeper scratches out first. For stainless, after finish sanding at 400 grit, a Sisal wheel is used along with Emery compound. Usually 2 passes will eliminate the sand scratches and you're ready to move on to a Spiral/Ventilated wheel with Stainless compound. 2 or 3 passes and you can finish with a Loose Section wheel and White Rouge compound. All this stuff is available through Eastwood along with tips and techniques pamphlet if you buy as a kit.....or as Scott would say, skip Eastwood and have your jobber fix you up with the needed supplies. You need a grinder with 1/3hp min. Bigger grinder can use bigger/thicker buffing wheels.

I tried polishing a center cap that was rough. I broke thru the flash chrome and it is yellow hue to it. Don't look good at all. It's sitting in my computer room on the shelf as an ornament.
Center cap as in Rally Wheel ? Those are regular chrome plated. Not alot you can do with scratches. Certainly no sanding. Can use the last 2 steps (wheel/compounds) as above, starting with Spiral Ventilated/ Stainless, but need to avoid over doing it and buffing through the plating.
 
#3 ·
Tom, my 69 has all stainless molding around the "top" half of the car. I'm certain yours is the same.
 
#5 ·
Tom, yes all the windows,drip rail, optional door and quarter reveals are stainless on a 68. I have a 68 rs and the rocker trim on the doors, fenders and and quarters is anodized aluminum.

I am in the middle of polishing my molding now also. I have been water sanding the stainless when I find straches that are too deep. I use an 8" sisal wheel and polish. You need a powerful polisher to get the job done.


Mike
 
#6 ·
I was doing a forum search on the same subject and read an excellent post about polishing the stainless. In that post the guy explained wet sanding the trim pieces. Don't immediately recall the grit though it was rougher than I would have expected. If you can get the majority out from wet sanding it will make the job a lot easier. Stainless is just tough to polish.
Here's another idea, one I may do. Chrome platers have to polish stuff before they can chrome a piece. They have big boy polishers and lots of experience if you can get them to not bend a thin piece of trim. Ask around a few shops and see what they would charge to polish your trim.
 
#7 ·
Maybe some of the issue you may be having is the flash chrome covering the stainless pcs.. I have been told once that is removed rework and polishing goes much easier. Searches can bring up a ton of material on the subject. JohnZ has talked about the flash chrome many times.
 
#9 ·
I've straightened and polished trim before. There are countless threads on this mindless, boring job. Deep scratches are removed simply by using a coarser grit and working up. When you cut through the flash chrome there is a noticeable appearance difference. Live with it, take it all off or have it flash chromed again.
 
#12 ·
buffing only on a bench grinder is taking forever!
Stainless is a very hard material...so using your normal cut an polish stuff is next to useless...Source some proper stainless polishing rouge coasres meduim and fine grades....comes in sticks or slabs...and is suprisingly cheap
It is also ideal for polishing Aluminium using kerosene (paraffin oil)

Bench ginder is ok to use BUT your normal run of the mill 1/2 hp and a 8" diameter polishing pad only just makes the grade for Aluminum....a 10" polishing pad and 3/4 or 1 hp does get the job done . and a bit slow on the stainless.
 
#15 ·
From working on aircraft we do polish stainless and we usually sand it with 500 grit if its decent and buff it with a product called Nuvite IIc. Great stuff! Not sure where you can get it from but it cuts great and breaks down as you use it so there is no need for a second compound. Bottom line is stainless is hard to polish no matter what.
 
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