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Time for another 68 Z/28 to be restored

937K views 1K replies 123 participants last post by  68camaroz28 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
We purchased our 68 Butternut Yellow Z/28 in the early 80's and for all the good, bad, and ugly reasons the restoration process just sat. Now the time has come to start the process and thought it might be beneficial to someone (including keeping me on track) to update the restoration process via this thread. A little background first: 01B built Camaro with black std. interior, original born with engine, M21 trans. and rear. Fall of 2008 I found the original owner (Eddie M.) with an old 1972 Phillips 66 charge receipt that was under the front bucket seat carpet. Eddie was a great person to talk to along with being a car guy so he told me a lot about the Z/28. Purchased at Roger Dean Chevrolet in Charleston, WV in late March or early April, 68 according to Eddie. He told me he was the one who purchased and added the air cowl plenum and headers as he was into the trans-am scene and Mark Donahue. Verified as well that the Z/28 had come with 302 fender emblems but he later added the Z/28 emblems to the fenders. When my wife and I purchased the car way back when it had most of the things original except for a few items like the water pump, starter, exhaust manifolds (remember those headers) but most of the hard to find (high $ stuff today) was there.Some might ask since the car sat so long what prompted the recent start up? Well, for many years it was "I'm going to get to it one of these days" but it never happened and the reason became obvious to me that to do the car correct it was beyond my skills hence Lonny Gordon and his team at East Coast Muscle Cars were chosen. Their workmanship is just fantastic along with being just great people. So the journey begins but would not have without the support of my wife:D For those of us married, we know how important that is, right? :yes:

Here is the car in the late 70's!


The Z just before it left for East Coast Musclecars!



Chick’s Team Camaro Build Thread - Time for Another 68 Z/28 to be Restored

Table of Contents
68Z-1970 Picture of Eddie Meadows (orig. owner) – Post 32
68Z-1983 Purchase - what I brought home in pieces - Post 1244
68Z-2010 How it looked from lacquer paint job in mid-80’s - Post 1
68Z-2016 Saw some sunlight for 1st time since 1979 – Post 1263
68Z-2017 Reunited with original owner Eddie Meadows – Post 1317
68Z-2017 Picture taking for Hemmings Muscle Machines – Post 1348
A-Arm assembly painted - Post 272
A-Arm rubber flap shields-drilling NOS inner fenders – Post 1045
A-Arm rubber flap shields making staples – Post 1045
A-Arm rubber material with cords – Post 971
A-Arm shims - Post 674
A-Arm upper rubber bumper #384220 - Post 214
Air cleaner connector #3923260 to valve cover - Post 592
Air cowl plenum air filter A226CW original vs. later - Post 236 & 241
Air cowl plenum air filter cheap replacement – Post 1191
Air cowl plenum carb stud – Post 1013
Air cowl plenum installed – Post 1191
Air cowl plenum original installation – Post 1011
Air cowl plenum original seal – Post 1013
Alternator - after restoration original dated 7H10 - Post 148
Alternator - before restoration original dated 7H10 – Post 46
Alternator brackets - comparing original GT stamp to reproduction stamp - Post 160
Alternator bracket to header and alternator installation - Post 795
Alternator bracket alignment front vs. rear on alternator - Post 800
Alternator bracket alignment rear of alternator vintage picture - Post 804 & 806
Alternator wiring boot original - Post 344
Aluminum restoration, intake and distributor – Post 128
Assembly of car - rear in subframe in front - Post 454
Assembly of cowl (Firewall) and under dash list – Post 839
Assembly of fenders and front end - 1069 & 1073
Astro ventilation parts and info - 764
Ball joints riveted - Post 160
Battery cable negative clips #3857706 - Post 609 & 612
Battery cable negative clips #3857706 located on frame - Post 621
Battery cable negative clips - how to install - Post 682 & 687
Battery ground for Y55 - location and hardware – Post 1191
Battery hold down clamp bolt - original with 0.87 inch diameter washer - Post 1293
Battery hold down clamp NOS correct piece – Post 860
Battery hold down clamp original vs. Service replacement- Post 366 & Post 490
Battery hold down clamp original dip painted and stampings – Post 1293
Battery hold down clamp painted original survivors (3) - Post 511
Battery hold down clamp restored and bolt – Post 1183
Battery tray – Post 1273, 1275, 1276, 1280, 1281, 1283 & 1287
Battery tray continued – Post 1291 & 1292
Battery tray continued - how to make tab correct - Post 1304
Battery Y55 NOS purchased 1983 (no Energizer script) – Post 1183
Battery Y55 NOS early 70’s vintage with Energizer script- Post 1261
Battery Y55 - How to gut – Post 1394 & 1396
Bezels - Side marker lights painting grooves black – Post 959
Body and components media blasted to bare metal – Post 8, 9 & 10
Body rubber flap in rear quarter housings - originals - Post 196
Body work – Post 53, 59, 61, 65, 69 & 98
Body work continued – Post 106 & 113
Brake booster hose bracket-original vs. reproduction - Post 269
Brake booster restored and hardware - Post 155
Brake booster valve comparisons original to later types – Post 814
Brake booster valve comparisons original to newer reproduction found – Post 1306 & 1309
Brake booster valve and seal #546180 both original - Post 607
Brake booster valve and seal with original clamp installed – Post 902
Brake clutch pedal assembly restoration - Post 410
Brake drum internal components and stamping - Post 258
Brake drum paint for components - close match - Post 262
Brake drum shoes and assembly - Post 486
Brake emergency cables with hardware installed – Post 1409
Brake hose rubber U-shaped clips - original to reproduction - Post 182 & Post 259
Brake hose rear original - Post 280 & 302
Brake line and hardware installed pictures – Post 1176
Brake line clips and hardware (note - ignore bluing for ’68) - Post 524
Brake line clips and hardware by part number in AIM - Post 541, 543 & 545
Brake line clips and hardware by part number in AIM - Post 587
Brake line rear bracket original vs. reproduction - Post 416
Brake line rear bracket with bolt attached to 12 bolt - Post 448
Brake master cylinder (found out later a re-stamp) – Post 129 & 796
Brake master cylinder and booster NOS 5/31/68 – Post 851
Brake master cylinder WT original vs. re-stamp – Post 1362
Brake master cylinder WT original rebuilt and valve with distribution block – Post 1365
Brake system directional block and valve restoration – Post 852
Brake system valve nut re-face (Note valve nut should be phosphate for ‘68, clear zinc for ’69) – Post 856
Bucket seat rail for seat in and out - Post 304
Bumper front installation – Post 1161
Bumper guards NOS – Post 114
Bumper rear NOS guards and installation – Post 1151
Bumper rear license plate light Bracket installation and light differences – Post 1146
Car Show: 11/2016 MCACN - Celebrity Pick Award winner – Post 1267
Car Show: 12/2016 East Coast Indoor Nationals December 2016 - Two awards – Post 1272
Car Show: 06/2017 Camaro Nationals, Gold – Post 1317
Car Show: 06/2017 Camaro Nationals judging demerits – Post 1329 & 1330
Car Show: 06/2017 Camaro Nationals judging demerits – Post 1349
Car Show: 06/2017 Camaro Nationals judging demerits – Post 1355 & 1360
Car Show: 11/2018 MCACN 999/1000 and Platinum Pick best stock Chevrolet – Post 1382
Car Show: 06/2019 AACA Senior award – Post 1398
Carb dated 7A1 List 4053 – Post 68
Carb manifold stud – Post 1087, Post 1111 & 1119
Carb manifold stud information (Stan NCRS judge) – Post 1189
Carb stud original ‘68Z - Post 592 & 1011
Car cover (have 4 of these) no longer available – Post 1157
Chromed original items - Post 757
Clutch bellcrank lower push rod - Post 791
Clutch fork #3892632 and spring - Post 590
Clutch fork hardware and GM number list - Post 683
Clutch fork spring and rod attachment issue with headers – Post 823
Clutch fork spring and rod attachment issue with headers fixed – Post 960
Coil spring tag Skip’s ‘68Z survivor - Post 540
Console gages original - Post 279
Console restoration pictures + (part numbers) and installed – Post 1138
Console special nuts #3792287 - Post 691
Cowl insulation under dash pad (NOS) - purchased 1979 - Post 414 & 419
Cowl insulation under dash pad (NOS) - purchased 1979 restored - Post 449
Cowl insulation under dash pad rubber plugs original #3868790 - Post 595
Cowl painted black - before paint Post 140 & after paint - Post 150
Cowl painted butternut yellow blend in - Post 243
Cowl panel seal #3927464 – Post 963
Cowl panel - Z28 stripe dimensions – original - Post 3 & 963
Cowl picture showing locations clips, lines, speedo, oil, grounds, etc. - Post 719
Cowl reverse backup light wiring to cowl connector - Post 726
Cowl seal #3927464 – Post 62
Cowl stampings PTB Post 692 & 698 (green)
Dash heater and defroster control panel restoration original - Post 775
Dash installed – Post 1111
Dealership script, Roger Dean added to car – Post 1265
Dimmer switch grommet original - Post 745
Disc brake caliper original 4 piston - Post 163 & painted Post 404
Disc brake distribution block and pressure regulation valve - Post 186
Disc brake hose bracket - Post 160
Disc brake hoses (NOS) - stenciled - Post 351
Disc brake mounting plate original re-plated - Post 249
Disc brake shoe kit #5470879 - Post 429
Disc brake pressure regulation valve ‘68 to ’69 – Post 877 & 880
Distributor cap D308/D308R - Post 594
Distributor original #1111266 dated 7A25 - Post 52 & 664
Distributor vacuum lines - Post 581
Door arm rest pads, original vs. PUI – Post 1080
Door glass hardware – Post 1053
Door handle gaskets (NOS) #1154551 - Post 377
Door handle original thickness vs. other years - Post 326
Door handle re-chromed and #9709600 push button - Post 374
Door handle ready for installation - Post 700
Door hinge area painted – Post 20
Door hinge bolts (3 different manufacturers) - Post 20
Door key lock and gaskets - Post 809
Door key lock original vs. Service replacements - Post 1379
Door latch originals and door latch rod covers - Post 508 & 1053
Door latches painted – Post 1068
Door light switches - original - Post 700
Door lock original push knob – Post 365
Door mirror taking glass out for re-chrome - Post 585
Door mirror original date code 10-DMI-7 - Post 43
Door mirror original restored and installed – Post 1161
Door rubber bumpers - original - Post 700
Door rubber bumpers (NOS) #4721222 – Post 1094
Door sill plates (NOS) with rivets purchased 1979 - Post 810
Door weather-stripping (NOS) – Post 1134
Door window cranks - Post 540 & 567
Door window cranks assembly after re-chrome – Post 881
Door window fuzzies - Post 1077
Drag link original blued - Post 208
Driveshaft paint markings after Evaporust bath - Post 271
Driveshaft paint markings installed – Post 1409
Driveshaft yoke - paint markings - Post 285 & restored Post 426
Driveshaft restored - Post 322
Drum brake hardware - Post 393 & 395
Drum brake wheel cylinders rear - Post 276
Emblems - fender (NOS) 302, bezel and Camaro – Post 959
Emblems - fender original 302 emblems Eddie had taken off car late 60’s – Post 1317
Emblems - trunk lid Fisher #7752901 - Post 1361
Emergency brake cables - Post 401 & hardware 413
Emissions sticker radiator support – Post 1187, 1188, Post 1238
Engine assembly #3830711 head gaskets, pistons, heads, etc. - Post 506
Engine cam, Crane blueprint specification – Post 1130
Engine compartment original ‘68Z (cook_dw) with air cowl plenum - Post 1004
Engine dress up starting - Post 582 & 608
Engine dyno sheet - Post 531
Engine head bolts original - Post 481
Engine mount #6258154 (not correct purchased 1979) - Post 484
Engine mount correct - Post 500 & Post 505
Engine mount hardware original vs. reproduction - Post 482 & 539
Engine oil pan drain hole “TR” bolt - Post 43
Engine painting at plant picture - Post 646
Engine piston original - Post 412
Engine stamping pictures - Post 168
Engine with transmission going in subframe - Post 735 & 736
Exhaust Gardner installation – Post 1168
Exhaust pipe hanger rear originals - Post 554
Fan shrouds, original vs. (NOS) Service replacement – Post 1087
Fender side marker bezel differences – Post 70 & 71
Flasher signal Stat 175 - Post 783 & 785
Fuel pump AC40524 used on ‘68 Z/28’s – Post 1260
Fuel pump original bolts - Post 201
Fuel pump plate, black or bare metal – Post 872
Fuses color coded – Post 1294
Gas cap locking (NOS) #986970 – Post 62
Gas cap originals riveted handle - Post 373
Gas cap originals riveted handle look added to NOS cap - Post 546
Gas pedal #3920296 review - Post 365
Gas line clip #3881339 clip with screw #3886522 & #3841230 - Post 586
Gas line clip #3881339 install how to - Post 608
Gas tank anti-rattle strips – originals - Post 269 & 1143
Gas tank filler neck cover and phosphate screw – Post 1014
Gas tank filler neck hose and hardware - Post 298 & 300
Gas tank filler neck hose hardware clamps original - Post 302
Gas tank filler neck installation - Post 1014
Gas tank installed – Post 1143
Gas tank sending unit original vs. #19179532 Service replacement - Post 520
Gas tank strap - original semi-gloss black - Post 251
Gas tank strap and bolts with nuts - Post 268
Gas tank strap original bolt vs. reproduction - Post 275 & Post 425
Glass quarter windows and trim – Post 1053
Glass windshield with rear glass and trim – Post 1127 & 1128
Glove box door Camaro script removal and parts – Post 905
Grille end bracket installation with rivet – Post 1144
Grille installation – Post 1117 & 1152
Grille matched for original look gray and painted – Post 1144
Grille prep for paint (NOS purchased 1983) - Post 957
Ground at gauge cluster housing (speedo/tach) - Post 1139
Ground strap screws #9420415 - Post 595
Hardware #124829 Z-bar nut – Post 1315
Hardware #272876 shackle nut phosphate – Post 1301
Hardware #3831892 - Post 427
Hardware #3873852 beside #3747933 carb studs – Post 1013
Hardware #3933052 10-24X1/2” AMK correct – Post 945
Hardware #5959164 rear tail-light screws – Post 980
Hardware #9418962 console screw – Post 1043
Hardware #9420415 ground strap screws – Post 595
Hardware #9780422 three different suppliers - Post 748
Hardware and fastener list by part number - Post 1253
Hardware- fender clips - Post 302
Hardware spoiler – Post 1087 (Found later to be acorn nuts!)
Header gaskets made as GM originals - Post 508 & 1301
Header GM hardware - Post 1308 & 1309
Headers-Kustom reproduction - Post 263 & coated Post 279
Headlight buckets original restored – Post 1119
Headlight electrical connectors original - Post 309
Headlight T3 date stamping original – Post 39
Headlight T3 testing - Post 884 & installed Post 1152
Headliner installed - Post 1080
Heater box and core dated 67L - Post 485
Heater hose – Post 995 & NCRS information Post 1042
Heater hose with GM logo picture taken Summer ‘68 (cook_dw) (Note: Heater hose for 68 used GM logo & by early 69 models changed to grooved) - Post 1004
Hood bumpers - original vs. reproduction - Post 1073
Hood hinge #3910668 comparison original to Service replacement - Post 269 & 270
Hood hinge to fender screw differences – Post 1254, 1255 & 1256
Hood hinge and latch restored - Post 361
Hood hinge hardware #9419301 - Post 480
Hood latch parts - Post 256
Horn relay restored - Post 148
Horns restored by horn works - Post 170
Horn screws original zinc - Post 413
Hose clamp original - Post 365
Idler arm original #3917581 and seal #5693027 – before and after - Post 204
Ignition coil bracket original vs. Service replacement - Post 413
Ignition coil comparison - Post 492
Ignition switch - pick it when you have no key – Post 1379
Inner fenders NOS - layout for A-Arm flaps - Post 1020
Inner fenders NOS - drilling for stapling rubber shields & making staples – Post 1045
Intake manifold bolts shouldered and non-shouldered - Post 581
Intake original #3017610 restored - Post 664
Intake oil fill tube cap - original vs. Service replacement - Post 369
Intake thermostat housing – Post 37
Interior bucket seat catch stops restored – Post 1251 & 1261
Interior carpet installation front – Post 735
Interior carpet original tag – Post 4
Interior door panel fuzzies (NOS) vs. reproduction – Post 1143
Interior door panel installation – Post 1156 & 1157
Interior lace vs. reproduction – Post 1191
Interior (NOS) package tray #7666129 – Post 1134
Interior pillar post seals original – Post 349
Interior rear view mirror original restored – Post 1140
Interior sail panels re-glued and installed – Post 1097
Interior seat belts – original - Post 1142
Interior seat belts - original Model 137 vs. Model 177 – Post 1183
Interior seat rear - Al Knoch issues – Post 1191
Interior seat rear - correct burlap and spring & view from trunk – Post 1251
Interior seat rear - correct original cover installed – Post 1297
Interior seat track hardware original restored – Post 1191
Interior sill plates (NOS) purchased 1979 with rivets – Post 1191 & 1232
Interior window - vent knob repair and put back on after chroming – Post 1303
Judging Bow Tie results – Post 1232 & 1238
Keys-Briggs & Stratton - Post 304 & 1249
Kick panels OER installed - Post 709
Leaf spring bushing - front #362108 - Post 441
Leaf spring comparison original vs. reproduction and installed - Post 441
Leaf spring hardware original - Post 402 & Post 441
Leaf spring J-nuts safety issue - Post 465
Leaf spring - rubber #3908370 for spring eye - Post 186 & Post 441
Leaf spring shackle plates restored - Post 442
Leaf spring stampings - Post 201
License light fixture removed - Post 275
License light fixture original restored vs. Service replacement - Post 667
Mirror - rear view original and Paragon replacement - Post 214
Muncie shift ball with Knob (NOS) #3922525 – Post 1138
Muncie shifter boot retainer ring screws – Post 1077
Muncie shifter bracket original bolts installed – Post 1408
Muncie shifter nuts with washers attach rods to transmission - Post 748 & 750
Muncie shifter original Niagara orange cap - Post 378
Muncie shifter original handle re-chromed - Post 374
Muncie shifter rods BB vs. SBC - Post 409
Muncie shifter with console (under cover) – Post 1020
Muncie shifter with stabilizer bar (Note: there were 3 different stabilizer bars used between engines and transmissions) - Post 385 & 409 & 859
Molding reveal – Post 1077
Nova L78 came home again - Post 674
Oil dip sticks ‘68Z two versions – Post 1041
Oil filter PF-25 original with embossed bottom - Post 328
Oil filter PF-25 and PF29 - Post 666
Oil Filter PF-29 correct for 1968 - NOS vs. Repro – Post 1312
Oil filter stenciling - Post 677 & 680
Oil pan differences original vs. Service replacement - Post 412
Oil pan ready to paint - Post 472
Oil pan splash shield original round hole - Post 412
Oil pressure line and fitting link to CRG – Post 830
Oil pressure line fitting to block – original – Post 845
Oil pressure line fitting installed - Post 902
Oil pressure line routing – Post 1020
Paint – 1st step, Lonny washing to prepare for paint - Post 174
Paint – 2nd pictures of body after wet sand and buff - Post 289 & 290
Paint primer steps – Post 79, 85 & 97
Paint Z/28 stripes layout – Post 1084 & 1087
Paint Z/28 stripes original parts – Post 3 & 963
Paint Z/28 stripes painted on – Post 1144
Parking light bulbs – Post 1146
Parking light fender bezel - Post 373
Parking light grille original housing, lens, screws and gasket - Post 334
Parking light quarter panel installation and bolt up – Post 1014
PCV - ventilation valve spun correct vs. Service replacement - Post 369 & Post 633
Plastic scratch remover “Novus” - Post 634 & 639
Plugs rubber rear quarter original #4805844 - Post 419 and #4802102 Post 590
Plugs rubber rear quarter original installed – Post 979
Quarter window glass and seals original - Post 596
Radiator cap RC-15 original vs. reproduction - Post 369
Radiator cap RC-15 original 68 and 69 restored - Post 508 & 1098
Radiator clutch fan stamped 11 2 67 SC - Post 258
Radiator petcock original ‘Weatherhead Company’ - Post 298 & 1094
Radiator tag original - Post 202 & 1094
Radio speaker AM front original - Post 578
Rag joint - ‘68 original on left ‘67 Corvette right one - Post 140
Rag joint restored - Post 163
Rally wheel DF showing two kinds font - Post 430 & Post 607
Rally wheel paint #1403 Krylon dull aluminum to argent silver - Post 520
Rally wheel with tire micro weights - Post 285 & Post 335
Rally wheel with trim ring and centers (NOS) 1980 – Post 1173
Rally wheel valve stems - Post 566 & Post 575
Rear 12 bolt air vent - original vs. reproduction (nice) – Post 819
Rear 12 bolt bumper rubber and hardware installed - Post 442
Rear 12 bolt stamping BV 1129 G1 - Post 169
Rear 12 bold hardware - #3930052 cushion and installation - Post 445
Rear 12 bolt ring gear dated 11/67 and axles – Post 116
Rear 12 bolt U-bolts - Post 429 & Post 441
Rear 12 bolt yoke - Post 369, with like new slinger - Post 377
Rear glass interior trim painted – Post 979
Roger Dean emblem – Post 848
Rocker panel molding (NOS) – Post 78
Rust Prevention Magic - Post 375
Seal #3921853 and clip (LH) below master cylinder – original – Post 957
Seal #3921853 and clip (LH) below master cylinder installed – Post 963
Seal seamer - cowl - Post 140
Shock absorber rear and cap – Original – Post 979
Shock absorber rear installed picture – Post 1409
Smog pump set-up (not used) - Post 319
Spark plug wire loom - left side - Post 373 & 979
Spark plugs AC43 comparison - Post 300
Speedometer cable CA and FB plug original - Post 510
Speedometer cable clips original - Post 511, 523 & 1408
Spoiler front – Post 1158, 1170 & 1252
Spoiler front screw location with dimensions to AIM for reference – Post 1252
Spoiler front screws – phosphate – Post 1301
Spoiler rear installed with acorn nuts –Post 1170
Spoiler rear acorn nuts original 7/16 inch height – Post 1330
Stabilizer link hardware differences - Post 195
Stampings body panel parts - Post 138
Starter brace original vs. Service replacement - Post 565
Starter painting per John Pirkle Jr. and NCRS link - Post 627
Starter solenoid cap brown vs. black - Post 630
Steering arms and knuckles #3902519 and #3902520 original markings - Post 155 & Post 156
Steering box nut and washer – phosphate – Post 1302 & 1407
Steering box original with RSC cover bolts - Post 253
Steering box original with date code 3567 (12/22/67) - Post 594
Steering knuckles restored with paint markings - Post 262
Steering rag joint installed - Post 800
Steering tie rods – Post 1176
Steering wheel original – Post 936 & 937
Subframe – Post 105 & 107
Subframe assembly - Post 287
Subframe body mount - #3901361, #3928380 and #1408366 – Post 158
Subframe body mount washer #3901365 - Post 365
Subframe bolts originals restored - Post 252
Subframe bolt and washers as installed - Post 795 & 1409
Subframe mount #3 taping - Post 262 & 1301
Subframe mounts to body and install - Post 752
Subframe painted - Post 138 & Post 140
Sunvisor brackets original re-chromed - Post 374
Suspension and steering component finished pictures – Post 1407 & 1408
Tachometer Tic-Toc-Tach original - Post 279 & Post 335
Taillight bezel gaskets - original - Post 275
Taillight bezel installed – Post 1014
Taillight bezels re-chromed - Post 374
Taillight bezels restored - Post 513
Taillight bulb connectors original - Post 310
Taillight lens wick, seals and screws #5959164 – Post 980
Temperature sending units (three types) – Post 1098
Temperature sending units (original type) and connector – Post 1111
Timing gear cover original bolts - Post 201
Tire - Goodyear Wide Tread January ‘68 dated - Post 535
Tire pressure sticker - original on glove box door – Post 52 & 905
Tire jack shaft re-plated - Post 249
Tire valve stem length and “Schrader” cap - Post 535
Transmission bell housing original (Note paint & yellow crayon mark) – Post 36
Transmission cross-member Muncie shifter - Post 302 & & 361
Transmission drain plug “W”- Post 45
Transmission rebuild – Post 126
Transmission reverse back--up light switch cover plate - original with stamping – Post 902
Transmission reverse back-up light switch holder #3864296 original - Post 397
Transmission reverse back-up light wiring to cowl connector - Post 726
Transmission shift levers and AIM back-up switch - Post 714
Transmission stamping P8T29 December 29, 1967 – Post 45 & 231
Trim - wheel well and rocker spears (#3904540) installed – Post 1151
Trunk bumper jack shaft re-plated – Post 249 & 1187
Trunk bumper jack UN hook – Post 1187
Trunk gas tank neck cover - original - Post 251
Trunk lid Posi glued and jacking instructions on – Post 1161
Trunk lid - removal of washer marks - Post 350
Trunk lid rubber bumper #4721222 – Post 86
Trunk lock retainer and screw – Post 1048, 1053 & 1065
Trunk shock cap original vs. reproduction - Post 423
Trunk spare tire holder and original wing nut vs. reproduction – Post 1187
Trunk spatter 1st attempt (wrong) - Post 243
Trunk spatter 2nd attempt (correct) – Post 964
Trunk weatherstripping - original type with string and later NOS – Post 1098
Trunk wiring harness clip installed – Post 1068
U-Joints originals – Post 861
Upper control arm washer - original to reproduction - Post 241
Valve cover grommet #14091870 - Post 626
Valve covers (NOS) purchased 1979 - Post 483
Vin hidden cowl – painted - Post 10 & 150
Voltage regulator restored dated 7M - Post 148
Water pump by-pass hose being painted - Post 941 & 964
Water pump original hose fittings re-plated - Post 249
Water pump Zinc fittings ground strap with heater hose elbow - Post 1309
Wheel house preparation – Post 106
Wheel stud - original - Post 182
Window sticker reproduction – Post 1261 & 1265
Windshield washer bottle cap and hose original – Post 327 & 1119
Windshield washer pump original #4912365 vs. later #4919332 - Post 225
Windshield washer pump restored - Post 270
Wiper arm blades correct -Post 886, 895, 898 & 899
Wiper arm mechanism before after Evaporust - Post 258
Wiper motor original dated 35167 - Post 520
Wiper motor original #5045441 and how to test – Post 900
Wiper motor original #5045441 and stenciled date code – Post 902
Wiring harness - engine connector (has wrong yellow zinc bolt) - Post 809
Wiring harness - engine connector with correct clear zinc bolt – Post 820
Wiring harness engine - original alternator boot, push in pins black - Post 344
Wiring harness - engine - original push in plugs black – Post 1119
Wiring harness junction block - original restored - Post 366
Wiring harness - trunk original vs. reproduction - Post 311
Wiring harness - trunk installation of clips – Post 1014
Wiring harness - trunk ground screw Zinc – Post 1014
Wiring harness - trunk ready for installation - Post 501
 
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#1,090 ·
Chick,
Do the fan shrouds have the same part numbers? Also is your hardware original to your car/ The reason I'm asking is that my 68 Z has the acorn nuts and the larger built in washer nuts like the ones you have pictured.

The set-up that you have pictured I got on a late 69 build car.
 
#1,092 ·
The spoiler on the '69 was a short one when we got the car. It looked like some very slight damage to the deck lid, I assume the original spoiler was damaged at some point and they replaced the long spoiler with a short spoiler. Assembly line takeoff or service replacement, who knows.

After doing some reading after I left that hardware with you. I'm of the opinion the nuts are original to the late 69 10D spoiler/car and not to whatever the other spoiler was. From what I could find, the acorn nut usage stopped in March or May of 69. Your 68 would have the acorn outboard and the large nuts inboard.

When I mentioned that spoiler hardware I thought you may have some use for them, I wasn't sure what they were original to or the variations over the years. I always wondered why Heartbeat City had a kit with nuts like what I gave you vs. everything else having acorns. Guess I know why now...

BTW - Stripes look great!
 
#1,093 ·
Thanks Garth as I screwed up on this one. :eek: Big thanks Dave for asking questions as yes they should be acorn nuts. Checking my files I found similar information and William confirmed acorn nuts were used until May69. Just a note when we purchased this car in the very early 80's it had been taken apart in 1979 as the owner was going to restore it or make it look new but ended up buying a 70 Z/28 and we purchased it. Actually purchased it twice but that is a whole interesting story I will get into later. Bottom line, when I brought it home she was already taken apart and hardware was not labeled and some missing. And I moved several times due to work locations so I'm sure that did not assist with keeping things all together. Luckily all the serious stuff was intact but when you get cigar boxes full of small stuff I have spent many, many hours trying to determine what goes where and why the AMK catalog became a restoration tool just to see what the configuration of the screw/bolt was by part #.
OK, we move on!
 
#1,094 ·
Working to finish everything possible in the Engine Compartment prior to the hood going back on. Getting the radiator ready to install included highlighting our original UH tag and placement of a correct drain peacock. The original radiator tags I've looked at had the letters outlined in white I assume to help assemblers to identify what radiator was what. Note the supplier stamping on the radiator peacock which I've noted on other survivors. This is a NOS one I picked up years ago.



I had ordered as mentioned many times prior all new wiring from American Autowire and its good stuff but there are a few connectors, etc. that should be changed out to make more correct. What did not come was the ground wire for the horn relay and voltage regulator so I called a representative I’ve met at Carlisle and as always was great in taking care of our needs but was still surprised when a simple wire came in a envelope and was charged $12 for the ground wire, $10.42 for the shipping and $3 for handling for a total of $13.42 to ship an envelope. I screwed up by not asking! Dang it!


Since the trunk lid is on to stay Skip and I added the NOS trunk bumpers purchased in the 80’s. Note they have the part # on. To assist others reading this, there was a change to trunk bumpers in 69 and they had the same part number per parts books but were much smaller and thinner. Seems logical since the other bumpers were many times too thick. Why the repro are so thick I will never understand. Repro on left vs. NOS on right.

Our two NOS bumpers installed-


Rick had mentioned when I showed how crappy the arm rest pads were he re-covers his. Looking at mine I decided to give them a good cleaning and then use some of our miracle stuff to see how they looked. Guess what, the original arm rest pads and holder will be going back in the car. They look like New! Very Happy!
 
#1,096 ·
Sorry Mike about that!
I was using the Quick Glo again. Of the three that can be obtained the one I've used the most is the "fine" grade. After a good cleaning/washing using Dawn detergent and warm water I then went over the plastic with the Quick Glo starting first at the bottom to see how it worked on this plastic but not with a buffer like the shroud but by hand. A little elbow grease for finger power but this stuff works. Keep in mind ours were in great shape to begin with but there were areas that needed work. I've used this stuff on lead tire weights, plastic, and stainless. It works!
 
#1,097 ·
John the upholstery man came back today with our sail panels that he had re-glued and installed since he was coming back to the shop for another job anyway. Thanks John!


Not a great picture but I installed the original lap belts cleaned in Oxy-Clean and the bulb/lens on the dome light. The bolts used for the lap belt in the roof thru the headliner are quite unique as many of you know. I do not have a part number but if anyone needs these they can be purchased thru Heartbeat and other suppliers I'm sure.



Both arm rest pads and holders are complete and look fantastic IMO. Used the ultra fine grade to do these.


This is our radio capacitor from the voltage regulator. Note the stenciling that indicates possible date coding of L 15 7 (Dec15, or Nov15, 1967) with the 3 possibly a mfg. line or?
 
#1,098 ·
Amazing how long it takes to get some things done correctly and with Skip’s help a few more things accomplished. Trunk weather-stripping original on left with string and later GM service replacement on right. The service replacement has a plastic core vs. the original string/cord type. We are using the original type for our 68 but the service replacement fits well and still has that wrinkled look but not to the point the originals looked like.




Something I learned a long time ago from many sources survivor cars when you look at the trunk lid screw/toothed washer it was placed on once and there is no show of previous marks from where the toothed washer was placed. What that means is when doing the body work on a car the previous marks need to be removed and when assembling the finished product we used smaller regular flat washers to properly fit and locate the lid. Once that was completed then install the correct toothed arrangement one by one. I used a socket that has the plastic liner and still place a piece of painters tape in the socket that assists giving a tight fit so paint on the screw head is not marred when installed. The tape in the picture was used to assist with re-installing the trunk lid after removal for the stripes.





Now moving to the radiator and shroud install. Joe Perri restored our radiator cap and in fact did two for me and one for Lonny. I normally stop and talk to Joe each year at Corvette Carlisle and his work is excellent. Note the rivet on our 68 vs. later flat type. Joe can put in what you need for your application during restoration.




Boy did Skip and I have fun (not really) placing the UH tag and shroud clip on the radiator. Tag did not want to go on so using different size drill bits we gradually opened the curved end on the tag that fits over the radiator tank edge and with a little assistance we were able to snap it in place.
The shroud clip was the worst trying to get the hooked clip to snap in the hole. I honestly thought it was not going to go but with some new forming and using a small screw driver to drive the hooked clip down it finally snapped into the hole. I will admit that shroud clip was a reproduction. The other clips are original with thanks to Skip for a donor for the overflow hose and the large clip that holds the fan shroud on the left side (not shown). That left side repro clip compared to Skip's donor is not even close to being correct looking. Maybe some are but the one I had was not and was not going to be used.




While we are in the engine compartment I learned something new, yep happens all the time, concerning the temperature sending unit. Many years ago I purchased a new one with the top hat for the side clip on type and then recently realized our wiring harness had a different connector so thought it was the threaded type so swapped for one of those with a friend only to find out they were used in 69, not 68. Jerry sent me a picture of his confirmed by Skip’s 68 and William supplied a part # of 6400759. Luckily I was able to find a NOS one quickly. Searching I found that many Corvette houses sell a repro since the 68 Corvette used the 6400759. It seems the only Camaro to use that part number was a 68 with console gages. These do not work in our car!


This type does! Picture courtesy of Jerry’s 68Z sending unit.


And finally some roof rail information with a huge thank you going out to my friends Bruce Dell, owner of Dell Metal Polishing who on short notice turned around some pieces and even exchanged one for me and Skip who supplied me with pieces that were lost. Back a few weeks ago Skip and I were going to check roof rail things out and my two long roof rail rails are no where to be found and never remember even seeing them. Skip gave me the two long pieces I had missing and those along with my two short pieces that I did have were sent out to Bruce asking if he could turn them around for me quickly which he did within a couple days along with exchanging one that Skip had given me that had what Bruce described as sandblast damage on it. All four pieces came back looking better than new. I’ve said it many times but having friends that help and assist make a huge difference. For any polishing Bruce is the man. You will see more of his work when we install other window trim.


The type of screw that holds the roof rail molding.
 
#1,099 ·
Chick I saw you had cleaned the window regulators were you able to get the old chunky hardened grease out of the transmissions? It took a lot of effort to clean the ones I have done. I used a rubber tipped needle and high tack high pressure gear box grease forced into the hole around the base of the shaft until it came out the gear side (Mobile black pearl open face gear grease)
 
#1,100 ·
James, you seem to come up with some great techniques on tackling issues with putting these cars back together. I don't know if I got it all out or not but they all seem to work pretty good. When you say "rubber tipped needle", can you supply more information on it, where obtained, etc.?
Good tip as always! :yes:
 
#1,102 ·
No gas tank in yet and would wait till spring anyway. I have a NOS gas tank purchased in the early 80's but they were wrapped in heavy paper and it has scuffs and a few small dents. Then I ordered one from Quanta (good company) and it arrived dropped shipped with some slight damage and Quanta had it picked up and another one dropped shipped. That one came with the one corner bashed in and the box had been opened and re-sealed yet there was no box damage. I think that tank was someone else's return or something. So I'm obtaining another but wait till Spring Carlisle when I can make sure the box contains a good one. You might remember the engine was already broke in and dyno'd so once that rascal has gas and spark it should fire right up. It was just a tick under 362 hp at 6700 rpm with a crane blueprint cam so its basically a very stock engine .03 over but blueprinted and balanced.
 
#1,104 ·
Sweet Mike! Do not have specs in front of me but the Crane Blueprint Cam is basically a stock replacement and same specs as original. When one is in the Dyno room and it's cranking 6700 rpm my heart was pumping! Seems like 10000 rpm noise wise! LOL
 
#1,107 ·
Chick,
Quanta is about 15 minutes from me and your not to far from me approx. 1 hour. With that said why don't you take the ride and inspect right there in the shop.
 
#1,108 ·
Correct Dave but they do not have any until load comes in during March. I talked to Dave (Quanta owner & great guy), and plan is when load comes in he will call me so I can come down. And it's a nice drive for us also. I do want to document your paint stripe dimensions on your 68Z so maybe we can work that out also. :beers:
 
#1,111 ·
Was able to purchase a correct Temp. Sending Unit and it seems you can purchase repro units from Corvette houses as it was used for an older model and the 68. It needed a little cleaning but looked new when complete and what I like is the stamping that can be easily seen when looking at the engine.



An original Temp. Sending Unit connector which the American Auto Wire seems to duplicate well.



And the NOS Temp. Sending Unit installed in the car and hooked up.



Skip and I took the trim off the dash pad and we cleaned and taped off for paint. The biggest issue with painting the inner section involved adhesion but after a few attempts I was able to reach the needed results. I used a 3M pad with a paint stir paddle which enables one to remove any paint flashing without getting into the depression of the groove painted black. On the pad itself after a good cleaning with warm water and Dawn I then deep cleaned with Murphy’s Oil Soap as I used that a lot on leather horse tack and think (correctly or not) that it cleans and adds some moisture to the pad material.



The trim fit up when we re-applied was much better as we took our time seating the trim firmly prior to bending each tab so between the trim looking new and being placed more correctly the dash pad looks the new part. I might add that one tab on each of the two trim pieces was never used by whoever assembled it but we used and it assisted with a tight fit to the pad.
Here we are installed-





Back not too long ago there was discussion on the CRG concerning carb studs and several noted upon removal it was evident their studs were yellow chromate or yellow zinc. Wow, never noticed that before so I started to dig! This picture shows the repro stud (left one) Jerry puts in the intake after re-skinning as he calls it is completed. They can be purchased at AMK. The two studs to the right are GM studs but not sure what they came out of. The stud next to the clear zinc repro either came out of a Corvette 327 intake or our 610 intake. Not 100% sure what they came out of but that set of four all have yellow zinc or chromate. I have them being re-done in yellow zinc and will be putting them on the car to replace the incorrect repro’s. What is obvious on the repro’s is the absence of the undercut at the top of the carb stud. We have looked at GM intakes both small block and big block and they all seem to have the undercut but the length varies from one type to another as observed with the three originals in this picture.



Much more to report so stay tuned as the interior takes life!
 
#1,189 ·
Back not too long ago there was discussion on the CRG concerning carb studs and several noted upon removal it was evident their studs were yellow chromate or yellow zinc. Wow, never noticed that before so I started to dig! This picture shows the repro stud (left one) Jerry puts in the intake after re-skinning as he calls it is completed. They can be purchased at AMK. The two studs to the right are GM studs but not sure what they came out of. The stud next to the clear zinc repro either came out of a Corvette 327 intake or our 610 intake. Not 100% sure what they came out of but that set of four all have yellow zinc or chromate. I have them being re-done in yellow zinc and will be putting them on the car to replace the incorrect repro’s. What is obvious on the repro’s is the absence of the undercut at the top of the carb stud. We have looked at GM intakes both small block and big block and they all seem to have the undercut but the length varies from one type to another as observed with the three originals in this picture.



Much more to report so stay tuned as the interior takes life!
Chick,

The detail on the studs is something that we (the Corvette folks) have been discussing for a while.

We're pretty certain at this point that any 1970-1972 Corvette engine with a Holley carb received the dichromate washed zinc studs. Too many original cars that show the plating and too many cars being restored that still have remnants of the plating as well. It doesn't surprise me that the carb studs on Holley equipped Camaro engines were done exactly the same way.

Our studs were probably at B&B at the same time... Picked them up a few weeks ago (six sets!). Another B&B Plating happy customer!

The car looks absolutely gorgeous!

Regards,

Stan
 
#1,117 ·
Calling all 68 owners with an original Std. Grille! We test fitted our service replacement grille recently that I had purchased in the early 80's or so and its a light color gray. I have always thought that service replacement grilles changed to that color but what were they originally? I was thinking a kind of bone color similar to the bottom of 68 consoles but I've received some different information and just trying to pin this down to assist making that rascal look like it was born there. 68 info is a lot more difficult to obtain than say a 69! I have determined that 68 RS grilles are Black. Another area is the bracket and rivets on the ends of the grille that attach to the headlight buckets. Would love to have a picture of what kind of rivet was used and sheen of black (semi-gloss or satin) bracket. And of course any pictures of that plastic color on the back side of the grille.
Our test fit up-
 
#1,118 ·
Hi Chick,

I went down this path a while ago and can share with you what I found on my car.

The grill that was on my car was bone in color, and as you said, similar to the color of the console bottom. I am, fairly certain, however, that at some point in the life of this car the grill was replaced. I say this because the grille mounting brackets were missing.

I too purchased a replacement grille back in the 80's. As with yours, mine was gray in color. Since the service replacement grills did not include the mounting brackets I purchased a set from HBC (Camaro Standard grille brackets pair 1968 - 1967, 1968, 1969 Camaro Parts - NOS, Rare, Reproduction Camaro Parts for your Restoration) which included the rivets. If I recall correctly, I repainted the brackets a satin finish. The next challenge was how to peen over the head of the rivets. I modified a C-clamp and fabricated a tool that would capture the head of the rivet on one side and peen over the opposite side as the c-clamp was screwed in. I've included a few pics of the tool for reference.

I'll be happy to take a picture of my old bone colored grill if you'd like.

Hope this info helps!

Bob
 

Attachments

#1,119 ·
Bob and Jerry sent me pictures of their 68 Grilles so we are going to proceed on that this week hopefully but for some updates from this week.
Remember these carb studs-


Well I took them along with some seat belt bolts and the two original headlight buckets to have them re-yellow zinc coated. Special thanks to Aaron at B&B Plating in Manchester, PA. He sure helps us gear heads! The same day we picked them up we installed them. I should note that two of the seat belt bolts are chrome (not in the picture) and they are next to perfect so they are going back in as they were in Jan68.


Headlight buckets have the galvanized look with a yellow zinc appearance. This is one of our originals close up after plating.


The headlight/alternator wiring harness from American Auto Wire has several push in type wire harness retainers as the original but most of the originals were black except for the one that plugs in the alternator and close to the voltage regulator as those two were white in my original harness. What is interesting is when I removed the original black plug-ins by unwrapping the original harness they are stapled to a thin black plastic strip. I assume that was done so the correct spacing when the harness was wrapped was maintained. After Skip removed the white plug-ins and marked location both in location and angle we taped them on the harness and then re-wrapped the entire area with the correct harness wrap and tied it off as originals. There is no adhesive on that wrap and pressure while wrapping adds no apparent thickness. This plug-in shown is correct from American Auto (center area of radiator support) and shows the plastic strip I was referring to.


A few of the white plug-ins removed and replaced with our original black ones.


How our wiring harness came for the coil hook up.


For the windshield washer plastic tank this is our original cap, hose and strainer. Note the brass strainer, ribbing on hose and how the cap underneath is shaped. A judge or anyone can feel under the cap and the rib should not run the entire length but later years it was changed that the rib went the entire radius to promote strength.



And finally for this update thanks to all for following and the amount of support received.
 
#1,121 ·
Nice Chick. Have you fired it up yet?
No Mike as the gas tank is not in! I'm waiting for shipment to arrive as my NOS gas tank does not suit and two others have had damage when they arrived. When shipment of tanks arrives at Quanta I take the last damaged tank there and we go thru tanks to make sure we have a good one. But since it was broke in and adjusted on the dyno it should go pretty smooth we Assume. :grin2:
Not sure why my picture from my previous post is not showing. Size? Was OK when I did a check but will not go now...??
 
#1,124 ·
Dave, I talked to Dave the owner Friday and the shipment has not arrived but I'm sure it will be easy to find you a good one. I'm up at Carlisle for the duration so PM me and we can get hooked up and yes, will help anyway I can.

Front grille is not black. I bought my 68 Z/28 in '74 and a friend of mine owns it today.
I'm confused I guess cause I never said the grille is black for a Z/28! Its argent silver with a black surround.
 
#1,127 ·
Skip and I spent quite a bit of time test fitting the front and rear glass, reviewing procedures and subsequent layout/planning for final installation. Some lessons learned and also told about prior included review of how the windows were installed from the factory and I had purchased a kit from Jeff at First Class Auto Glass Inc. in Scranton, PA. Jeff’s kit includes a foam 3M strip and primer (not shown in picture), along with everything needed. And the kit includes nozzles notched and cut for installing the foam strip and sealer on the window.



After debating we decided to place the foam on the opening as there were some narrow areas for fit up due to glass configuration and for us it just seemed the best way to proceed or easiest for us. Where we spent a lot of time was the location of the foam and setting it on that it had an evenness to it and not an up and down or wavy appearance. To do that the first step with window in proper position was a grease pencil line.




Another issue is reproduction glass! When we purchased the car torn apart in the early 80’s we never had the front windshield as they cracked it taking it out and a couple years ago after reviewing our rear glass it was dated March69. Since much of our original side glass was dated VZ (Dec67) we purchased both the rear and front glass dated VZ.


The front piece fit-up was pretty good and the rear glass was OK but the left bottom corner angled in causing an area that would be thin with sealant but was told it compared well to others installed and it looks fine after installation and trim on. An area that really pays off is utilizing the actual trim for fit up to body lines as sometimes they were not the best from the factory. East Coast Muscle Cars, ECMC does just that and what a nice looking fit-up.





A suggestion on what I’d do differently would entail putting the windshield in earlier but of course with the dash pad in place and in fact we test fitted the original pillar post seals prior to windshield placement and decided to leave them in place. With the front end off it makes fit up easier so at least it is something to think about or look into prior IMHO. The two bottom windshield trim pieces have a somewhat odd screw that hold them in place behind the fender as it’s a #8 but with a 9/32” head. Picture of an original prior to restoration.


Our original clips and note the sealer residue and how some of the original butter nut yellow paint is attached.
 
#1,128 ·



When we test fitted the cowl panel with the installed underneath cushions to make sure the fit under the molding would be correct the left side was sticking up and upon review its due to the body cowl area having that left section formed upward for the wiper arm mechanism. I pulled the original cushions and you can see how much the left side was deformed. We used a small grinder and relieved the area. Amazing what you run in to at times!
 
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