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65-6 327 ?'s

3K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  97Z4C 
#1 ·
I have a buddy selling what he says is a 327 out of a 65 truck, I did a little research and it seems as they didn't really put 327's in trucks unless it was special optioned... so that makes me question not only the year or the block, but what it came out of. Anyway, he's selling it for $200 with heads/cam but is in rough shape. If the bearings look good, I may do a slight hone and throw it back together with some performance parts. Can anyone identify the things at the front of the block? (pic below related) I've never seen anything like this... I will try to get him to get me the casting numbers and pad #'s, it's difficult doing all of this over the phone with someone who doesn't really know where to look.
Other than the small rod bolts, are there any other fundamental flaws running a SJ 327 with upwards of 400hp and 6,500rpm? I don't really care if this thing slings a rod through the block at some point, but would like it to last at least a year...

 
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#2 ·
Casting number and date will be at the back of the block on the bellhousing flange. Application code will be stamped on the front pad in front of the passenger side cylinder head. Get those codes and post them when you can, along with the casting number of the heads.

They put lots of 327s in trucks in 1965. There were 185 hp and 220 hp versions.
 
#3 ·
Those small journal 327's made 500 plus HP turning 8000 plus rpm without problem. Good little engines, ask all the guys that ran them in tri-5's in gas classes back in the day.

331 CID, stand on the loud pedal, and dump the clutch at 9 grand. The SJ cranks are usually more desireable than the LJ variety.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I plan to throw in a solid roller and small chamber (49cc) al heads, single plane, and go. I already have a well built LJ 333" but it's the original block, and I really just want an engine I can abuse, without worrying about trashing.
The heads on this motor are 882's if that helps.
Can anyone identify the hole at the front of the block? Road draft tube? Also, what about the plugged hole at the rear?
 
#5 ·
Plugged hole in the rear, says 'Here', is road draft tube outlet.
Front hole is oil drain from oil fill tube. OE pre-67 covers had no oil fill cap.
'882's are small late model lightweight (?) heads, must be zillions of them out there.
Nice item about a SJ is less rotating mass compared to LJ, as you read Michael's post, one reason Gassers used them, plus less friction compared to LJ.
Yes. they were screamers. If you're going for 9K rpm, its idle rpm will be around 1500-2000 rpm, and why be concerned with idle when you designed for VH/rpm? Unless you EFI it.
 
#6 ·
As Everett pointed out those heads are '69 or later because of the accessory holes. They also used an oil fill tube until '69. The numbers on the block will mean little as the block is pre '69 and the heads are post '69 and it is all painted mid 70's 305 blue ! It is what it is.
 
#8 ·
3782870 block casting, so it looks like it was a car/truck 250/375 327. I forgot all about the heads... I forgot they didn't add the accessory holes until '69. I have honestly been doing a lot of aftermarket sbc and LS/LQ research lately... forgot my roots.
Apparently the hi power SJ 327's had different rods than the lo power ones... hopefully this one does. It's got flat top re builder type pistons, bores look good. May just throw in new rings and call it a day.
 
#9 ·
AJ, the stock rods should be fine up to 6500 rpms, which is where you said you wanted to be. Anything over 7000, TO BE SAFE - personally I would go with better rods and high end ARP bolts. But I tend to over build stuff.
 
#10 ·
My engine builder said that what fails are the rod bolts. He replaced the rod bolts with ARP bolts, and since SJ cranks are forged he said we were good to go.
 
#12 ·
Nope, his 1st name is Kevin !
 
#13 ·
I've considered changing rod bolts, I always like to use fresh, nice hardware no matter what ie: ARP. If you install new rod bolts, doesn't that throw off the clearances though? I know the rod bolts on SJ motors are tiny so I don't really know if it's worth messing with new bolts.
 
#14 ·
Check and replace what items are in the rotating assembly, if you want ARP bolts, go for it, change rods, if you want, if they have non-cast surface on the sides, then excellent stress-relieved GM rods, if there is a pink strip on them, you're lucky, GM's 'pink rods', clean everything, size in a set of bearings and chose the ring material, moly filled top ring is good, buy a fluid balancer, 6 inch would be fine, take along lightweight flywheel and pressure plate, and have the assembly balanced. Stock oil pump, widened sump oil pan.

The idea is reduced weight/mass to rev faster and balanced reducing the high rpm buzz.
Full tube equal length 1.62" headers, about 28-29 inches long, 3 inch collectors with extensions making the total length, from the merge to the end, about 15 inches long.
Buy a 5 inch alt pulley.
 
#15 ·
The plugged hole at the rear (under the first "e" in "here") on an 870 block is for the "intake" side of the PCV system; on '64-up Corvettes, it took the adapter housing/tube and hose that connected to the bottom of the air cleaner. That block also used an oil vapor separator canister in the lifter valley as part of the PCV system - you can see the tapped hole where it attached in the photo in the first post.

Pre-'66 rods failed chronically adjacent to the bolt head seat; additional material was added there in mid-'66 to address that failure mode; you can see the difference between the two designs in the photos below. The "early" rods are junk.

:beers:
 

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