Hi Shawn, that's a bit high on the block, shop around some.
I don't recommend a "lightweight" crank in a potential "blown" unit?? Also need to "double-key" the crank ahead of time. If you do it now you will not need to remove the it to add the blower!
Be very careful when working with those blocks, the BB aluminum's, they require special attention to the honing process. Special honing plate and special fasteners to mount the plate, we use an "O" ringed plate against the sleeves to stabilize them during honing! Att'n to detail here is critical to effective ring sealing! We also use "Speed-Pro" standard-tension/file-fit rings
The decks need to be "CNC'd" ONLY for the correct finish and the ONLY (head) gaskets we are now using on these builds are the "Fel-Pro" MLS's. At 1300/1450 HP we have NO water leaks whatsover.
All the fasteners used in these blocks require "bullet's" to be correct!
The sleeves should be "seated" with some heat before any machining begins!
On a side note, after a call I received today, I would use only "Diamond's" pistons in any future builds of this type! I'll have more info about this "call" at a later time. It involves a 4000# ride (blown) running 9.20's a year ago.
The photo below is the Dart block, the Brodix heads, a set of "Kook's" S.S. headers (2.375" primaries), and the good old "nylon timing set" that is inside this unit again now!!
(Add) Try to avoid using ANY "4032" pistons on the "blown" platform!! Use only the "2618's!!
Thanks, Gary in N.Y.
P.S. If you go the "blown" route and are "going through the hood" you should consider the "Whipple" line, we see an add'l 250/350 HP over the conventional "roots" blowers. Takes less HP to turn it and has a much cooler charge going in!!