Rear main seal replacement - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 08:54 AM Thread Starter
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Keith
 
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Rear main seal replacement

What should I expect to pay for a rear main seal replacement?

383, 2 piece seal, 7 quart pan, backed up by a Muncie (if that makes a difference).
Definitely cannot get the pan off with the engin bolte din the car--will have to either raise the motor, or remove it completely form the car...

I'm guessing around $500 or $600?

Keith
1967 Camaro
406, 10:1, comp xr282HR, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc, Holley Contender dual plane, Holley 750 DP
Muncie M-20
GM 8.5, 3.73 posi
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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 09:55 AM
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Al
 
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

Can't guess on the cost, but before I spent a nickel I'd make sure it's the rear main seal that's leaking. Lots of things can drip oil off of the back of the engine, such as a valve cover, rear intake seal, oil pressure sender, front seal on your muncie or rear pan seal.
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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by BPOS View Post
Can't guess on the cost, but before I spent a nickel I'd make sure it's the rear main seal that's leaking. Lots of things can drip oil off of the back of the engine, such as a valve cover, rear intake seal, oil pressure sender, front seal on your muncie or rear pan seal.
Unfortunately...I have gone through the steps and ruled everything out but the rear main seal..
has been leaking for quite some time...prior to swapping the muncie in from the TH400 that was there...in the process, also replaced the pressure sender, and the top of th emotor, and the valve cover seals are good...

Believe me, I wish it was anything but the rear main!

Keith
1967 Camaro
406, 10:1, comp xr282HR, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc, Holley Contender dual plane, Holley 750 DP
Muncie M-20
GM 8.5, 3.73 posi
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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 11:38 AM
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

It's not hard to do if you have an engine hoist:

oil pan
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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 04:09 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

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Originally Posted by Nashville Beth View Post
It's not hard to do if you have an engine hoist:

oil pan

Yeah...$160-200 for a cherry picker is probably a better deal thatn paying someone...just a storage iossue--because I'll keep the tool!

Keith
1967 Camaro
406, 10:1, comp xr282HR, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc, Holley Contender dual plane, Holley 750 DP
Muncie M-20
GM 8.5, 3.73 posi
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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 04:54 PM
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

Keith,
If you are asking about taking the car to a real business and having them do it, I would expect a bill closer to $1000 at least. I dont care what anyone else here says, to do the job properly means pulling the engine and that is at least a good 10 hours total to do a good careful job. Anyone that says they are going to do it faster is going to cut corners. Most decent shops are getting $100 an hour.

Just my opinion,

Bill Koustenis
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Waldorf Md
1971 Chevelle "Heavy Chevy" original owner

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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 05:26 PM
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Don
 
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

It has been done before, but there is always the crank weight that is in the way and can be roatated. Then if you have a scattershield, the front of that will likely be in the way. The motor will have to be proped up at the motor mounts with maybe a short 2x4 , headers , distrib, fan blade and shroud may need some attention. But it has been done.

You did not say just where is it leaking? If its leaking at the pan and you have a flywheel shield or such, I would think oil pan gasket or like others have mentioned, coming from above. Either way, main seal , pan gasket, pan still needs to come off.

As mentioned, a fold up type cherry picker, really comes in handy here. Might think of other things that need to be tended to , while motor is out. You could probably R&R motor and trans together. For the money that Bill is talking about and I agree, I would think about doing it myself.

Don
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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 05:35 PM
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Jeremie
 
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

How much oil does it leak? Do u use conventinal or synthedic oil?
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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 05:38 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

I htink this will be a spring time job...Car is going into the body shop in a week or so for paint, including all new trim, 1/4's, fenders, etc...

Since I am replacing the core support anyway, maybe I'll see if the body shop will let me at it to pull the motro and work on th erear main seal...

I was just hoping to get it in and done befor ethe body work, "just in case"!

At any rate, the last thing I want is to pull it apart, replace the seal, then end up with it leaking again because I ddin't do it right...that is really my ONLY reservation about it...Lord kNows, I've done just about every other mechanical repair on my own (including motor and tranny swaps...

Keith
1967 Camaro
406, 10:1, comp xr282HR, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc, Holley Contender dual plane, Holley 750 DP
Muncie M-20
GM 8.5, 3.73 posi
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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 05:39 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by MTN10 View Post
How much oil does it leak? Do u use conventinal or synthedic oil?

I use regular 20-50 Valvoline.

I lose about a quart or so over the course of each summer...just hate the fact that it leaks at all (more to do with my OCD, than really affecting anyhting)!

Keith
1967 Camaro
406, 10:1, comp xr282HR, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc, Holley Contender dual plane, Holley 750 DP
Muncie M-20
GM 8.5, 3.73 posi
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 06:00 PM
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Jeremie
 
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

I can totally relate. I go out to the garage and start my car just to make sure it still starts, even if i drove it 1 day ago!!!
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 07:38 PM
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

I know what you mean about the leak! I just did the oil pan gasket on my 97 SS for the same reason. I put in a new rear main while i was in there too. I also spent a couple of hours on my back cleaning the under side of the car while everything was out.

I would do it while it is at the body shop with the front sheet metal off. Don't know how well you know your body guy, but you and a buddy could probably do it one night after they close. The only thing that sucks is bringing your tools there. You always forget something!

Good luck

Derek

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 23rd, 10, 08:22 PM
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

Also take a real hard look at the rear cam galley plugs while everything is out.

alan
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 10, 07:56 AM
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Rich
 
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

Any shop manual lists the instrructions for rear main seal replacement as being done with the engine IN the car. They all list about putting the timing mark at the 5 o'clock position ect. Most recommend that you jack the engine up and install 2 chunks of wood between the engine moonts and the frame stands and let the engine rest on those. I have jacked engines up the oil pan using a block of wood with no issues. Most of the time I jack them up by the balancer. In your case that might not be adviseable since you may need to rotate the crank while the engine is raised so I reccomend jacking it up with a block of wood under the pan(it wont dent the pan) put a 5 inch long chunk of 2x4 between ech motor mount and engine stand and let the engine rest on those. The pan should fall right out.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old Oct 24th, 10, 01:34 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Rear main seal replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by RichSchmidt View Post
Any shop manual lists the instrructions for rear main seal replacement as being done with the engine IN the car. They all list about putting the timing mark at the 5 o'clock position ect. Most recommend that you jack the engine up and install 2 chunks of wood between the engine moonts and the frame stands and let the engine rest on those. I have jacked engines up the oil pan using a block of wood with no issues. Most of the time I jack them up by the balancer. In your case that might not be adviseable since you may need to rotate the crank while the engine is raised so I reccomend jacking it up with a block of wood under the pan(it wont dent the pan) put a 5 inch long chunk of 2x4 between ech motor mount and engine stand and let the engine rest on those. The pan should fall right out.

If that is the case, then no need for a cherry picker, or to remove the hood...I'll give it a whirl when the car comes back from the body shop in the spring...

Keith
1967 Camaro
406, 10:1, comp xr282HR, Dart Iron Eagle 200cc, Holley Contender dual plane, Holley 750 DP
Muncie M-20
GM 8.5, 3.73 posi
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