Got it Dennis, I see where you're coming from. You're thinking of overheating and uncontrolled venting of coolant.
A recovery system is really simple and will never puke water because it almost never overheats. The water that is forced out of the engine that we refer to as 'puking' is water that will now travel back and forth.
The first component to install is a radiator cap with the funky second valve that's seen by looking at the bottom of the cap. This is a one way valve that DOES NOT let coolant OUT. It only let's it in. Next is the tank. Not any tank, but one that takes the overflow into it from the bottom. It lets the expanded coolant from the engine travel both ways because the inlet/outlet is on the bottom so siphoning is assured. Remember, there's no air in the coolant. This is not a drag race puke tank but perfectly within the rules. Water travels both ways because there is no air in the overflow tube. The coolant that goes out of the radiator does so via natural expansion as the system warms. It goes out of the radiator via the conventional cap seal and then out to the overflow tube. When the cooling system cools down after shutting off the engine, the liquid contracts. The little 'piddle' valve under the cap then opens and the two tanks equalize and water is drawn back into the engine via contraction. No over heating.
No air in system.
It's important to fill the radiator to the max! Very important.
Then fill the overflow tank about mid-way. Start and warm the engine.
The air left in the radiator rises to the top and is forced out to the recovery tank. It's at the same pressure as the water. Air goes to the tank and rises, of course, and vents out the little vent hole at the top of all recovery tanks. The water doesn't. It waits to go up until the air in the cooling system is purged. But it does go down when the engine cools because it siphon's back. Prior to all of the air being forced out of the radiator it's very important to insure that the water in the recovery tank does NOT get low and let air back into the radiator.
It's so simple that these systems cost less than an oil change. All you need is the cap and correct tank. Mount the tank and you're done. No more puking and little maintenance in the future because the antifreeze is basically in a container like the jug it came out of. Simple.
That's also why recovery tanks are marked with a high and low level indicator. The system should be maintained between the marks via water. No need to add antifreeze. The level in the recovery tank goes up when the engine is at operating temperature and then down when cool but it should stay between the high and low marks. Liquid will eventually go down because water in tank naturally evaporates out of its required vent hole. A splash of water about once a year is all that's usually required.
Again, a malfunction of a thermostat or something like a blown hose will still cause overheating but it won't be caused by the recovery system because the radiator cap is of the same pressure as spec'd originally.
One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.