So it's come down to this. I took off the tunnel ram, and am am installing my RPM Air Gap onto my SBC with an Edelbrock 750 Performer carb. It's a SBC in a '69 Camaro. I realized that I don't have a throttle rod from my accelerator arm to the carb. I ordered the 'universal' one from Rick's...it's not very universal, allowing only a couple of inches of adjustment, and being 14" long. I temporarily used a 8" rod that I sold with my tunnel ram when I had the Torker and same carb on my car.
What fits? What do you guys use for your applications? Does anyone run the RPM Air Gap (fairly tall), or another manifold with a 1" spacer and also an Edelbrock carb that has a good suggestion?
Thanks, but I guess what I need to know is will they work with my application, and if so, which one? Z/28, or 350 4V. Since I have the high rise RPM Air Gap and an Edelbrock carb, which one is the correct length?
That's why I bought the 'universal' rod, but it's too long by my best guess. I'm hoping there are guys out there that have upgraded their manifold and/or carb but were able to use their stock linkage...if so I'd like to know which one they used.
I use 1/4-28 threaded rod and two 1/4" heim joints. You can get these at any good hardware store for less than $20. Measure the distance you need to span with the pedal all the way down and the throttle wide open and cut the rod to fit. If you don't like the look of the threaded rod, cover it with tubing. We put this exact linkage on a 331" Mustang that was having throttle linkage problems and gained 245 rwhp. Not bat for a $20 investment.
"For those that will fight for it...FREEDOM ...has a flavor the protected shall never know."
Semper Fi! L/Cpl Edwin L. "Tim" Craft, B Co 3rd AT's, Khe Sanh Combat Base, February, 1968
What throttle rod do you have, can you identify it for me based on the NPD page you linked? Or, do you know what your stock linkage was for? Was it the 350 4V? I was wondering if the Z/28 one would be better as it came with a factory high rise manifold.
Head down to the hardware store and pick up a 1/4 x 28 die to rethread the rod you have after you cut it to length. Probably less than $4 bucks at your local Ace. Spend another couple of bucks for a handle or you can chuck the die up in a vise or maybe even in a set of vise grips.
P.S. take the rod with you to make sure of the thread size.
I think what I'll do is use the universal rod I have since it's chrome, and cut off some of the threads on the threaded end and fit a heim joint. Then, I'll cut the other end off where I need it to be, than thread that and fit another heim joint. I don't like the clip set-up anyway.
you could always get a gas pedal and cable from an early 70's Nova and not have to worry about it binding if a motor mount lets go or something. it will bolt right in- and all you need to do is drill a 1/2" or so hole in the firewall for the cable to pass thru- and there might even be a dimple there where the hole goes, since a 69 Nova used a cable and had the same firewall panel.
if the Nova cable is too short- just scour around the boneyard until you find one that's long enough.
you don't plan sincerity.
you have to make it up on the spot.
wanna hear about 20 years ago when i was too smart to know any better?
Currently I have a 3" air cleaner that is not a drop base...but it stuck through my hood even with the Torker manifold I had on there first, luckily I had a hole from the tunnel ram. I'm ordering a steel cowl hood for the car next week, so I'm not sure if it'll clear my aircleaner or not, or if I need to order a drop-base aircleaner.
Maybe my universal rod is the ticket if I have to start bending stuff....
So the bend in the Z/28 Rod is to clear the aircleaner...makes sense now.