milky oil remedy - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 08:00 AM Thread Starter
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milky oil remedy

I have a new crate motor in my 68. I am finishing up the restoration and while she is sitting in the garage I have been using a gas can to put gas in. Well I had a gas can that has been sitting for awhile and I put the gas into the car. The next day I was sealing up a trans fluid leak so I decided to top off all the fluids. The oil dipstick was milky white, kinda frothy. My assumption is that condensation has gotten into the tank from the gas can and from the car sitting around not being driven. In fact when I got underneath the car, the oil pan and torque converter were wet with condensation. I changed the oil which looked like coffee with lots of creamer... After replacing with new oil and draining out the old gas, I put in new gas and cranked it up for a minute or two. When I checked the oil again, it was still milky but not as bad. Do I need to keep changing the oil and gas until it clears up? I'm scared of damaging my engine...

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post #2 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 08:11 AM
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Re: milky oil remedy

I may be wrong and the experts will chime in here. But from what I know I don't see what the gas has to do with milky oil and that issue I've always known as coolant/antifreeze getting into the oil. Like a headgasket problem, ect.
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post #3 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 08:19 AM Thread Starter
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Re: milky oil remedy

Quote:
Originally Posted by KJProX View Post
I may be wrong and the experts will chime in here. But from what I know I don't see what the gas has to do with milky oil and that issue I've always known as coolant/antifreeze getting into the oil. Like a headgasket problem, ect.


I should clarify, although the car runs, it is not registered and has not been driven much at all. I crank it up for a few minutes every now and then. I am probably contributing to the condensation issue...It gets chilly here at night and then warm in the daytime this time of year...
Anyway I was concerned about water in the gas as well....

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post #4 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 08:47 AM
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Re: milky oil remedy

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Originally Posted by KJProX View Post
I may be wrong and the experts will chime in here. But from what I know I don't see what the gas has to do with milky oil and that issue I've always known as coolant/antifreeze getting into the oil. Like a headgasket problem, ect.
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post #5 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 08:56 AM
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Re: milky oil remedy

Water in your gas will not create milky oil.

The milky oil is from condensation/moisture or coolant in the oil. A cooling system pressure test will rule out coolant. From what you've told us, you are probably creating the issue by starting and running the engine for only a few minutes at a time. If you start and run the engine, you need to let it get up to normal operating temperature and then let it run for another 15 or 20 minutes before shutting it down. If you are running a cooler temp thermostat, your problem will be worse. A higher temp thermostat will help with the problem, but the real solution is to not run it for short periods of time.

I'd start it up, let it run for 30 or 45 minutes and then change the oil again. Until you can drive it, that's your only option.

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post #6 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 09:01 AM
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Re: milky oil remedy

Did you seal the threads on your head bolts when you installed the heads on that crate motor?? Several of the head bolts go into the water jackets, and can allow water/coolant to seep into the oil...

(I learned that on the first engine I ever put together... way back in '71...

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post #7 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 09:10 AM
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Re: milky oil remedy

Condensate could be one source of water in the oil, but it won't amount to much by volume. When you checked your fluid levels was your coolant level down? As mentioned water in the oil is frequently caused by wicking fluid by way of head bolts, a blown head gasket, or a bad seal in the intake manifold gasket. Less likely on a new motor that hasn't been run is a cracked block or head.

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post #8 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Re: milky oil remedy

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Originally Posted by Larger Dave View Post
Condensate could be one source of water in the oil, but it won't amount to much by volume. When you checked your fluid levels was your coolant level down? As mentioned water in the oil is frequently caused by wicking fluid by way of head bolts, a blown head gasket, or a bad seal in the intake manifold gasket. Less likely on a new motor that hasn't been run is a cracked block or head.

Big Dave
OK, so we may have narrowed this thing down. (With the help of all of you). I remember last week as I was doing the wiring, I loosened an intake manifold bolt and made a mental note to seal it back...I never sealed it back. I bet this is the source of the leak into the oil... When I changed the oil, too much fluid came out and when I checked the radiator water, it was low... I think we solved this one. I will confirm after work....
Thanks guys!

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post #9 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 10:26 AM
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Re: milky oil remedy

Keep changing the motor oil and filter , even if you run cheaper oil thru after a good warm up, you can block the radiator off and build heat quickly , keep checking for moisture.

You said crate motor?? Yours? Someone eles? As someone mentioned , pressure up cooling system with a hand pump and wait and watch.

Yes, look at those head bolts/Studs.

Any chance of tasting any of the water droplets? If you taste somewhat sweet, its more likely coolant.
We did it all the time in the oil patch, salty , from well. No taste past the petroleum , was rain runoff etc. Had to watch out for some livestock.

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post #10 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 12:50 PM
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Re: milky oil remedy

The worse thing you can do is fire up an engine in the winter without getting it to operating temp by going around the block a few times. Your way will rot out your exhaust system fast.
When winter comes with snow, store it and leave it alone until spring.

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post #11 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 12:56 PM
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Re: milky oil remedy

Quote:
Originally Posted by COPO View Post
The worse thing you can do is fire up an engine in the winter without getting it to operating temp by going around the block a few times. Your way will rot out your exhaust system fast.
When winter comes with snow, store it and leave it alone until spring.
and with a battery tender plugged in too

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post #12 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 02:12 PM
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Re: milky oil remedy

I would make sure to solve the milky oil problem before firing the engine and running it for any length of time. Water or antifreeze will reduce the lubrication of your oil and possible damage moving parts, causing more problems and more $$$. It sounds like the most likely culprit is your intake manifold, as you said you may have left a bolt not tightened. Second possibility might be the head bolts if you didn't seal them. Use Permatex 2, RTV (any flavor) or Loctite® 592 PST®. When installing the intake and the heads, always use the proper torque and sequence for tightening the bolts.
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post #13 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 02:40 PM
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Re: milky oil remedy

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUG G View Post
and with a battery tender plugged in too
Mines in the basement with my John Deere batt alternating wkly on a tender

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post #14 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 04:42 PM
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Re: milky oil remedy

To add to this problem would be if water got into one of the cylinders and you tried to start it an hydrolocked the engine and bent some rods. Pull the plugs and see what the plugs look like, you might be able to see what cylinders are affected.
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post #15 of 57 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 17, 07:36 PM
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Re: milky oil remedy

Quote:
Originally Posted by COPO View Post
The worse thing you can do is fire up an engine in the winter without getting it to operating temp by going around the block a few times. Your way will rot out your exhaust system fast.
When winter comes with snow, store it and leave it alone until spring.
Seriously, this is like car ownership 101 here.

I've heard (someone please correct me if I'm way off base here) that the oil temp has to be around 195f to start the moisture evaporating. Then you have to keep driving it long enough at that temp to get all the moisture out of the oil and all out of the crankcase ventilation system. That can take more than just going around the block a few times.

Usually tho, condensate in the oil will show it's self in the form of a light tan goop at the top of the dip stick and on the inside of the breather cap. If there is allot, it will be more like a jelly. The oil at the bottom of the dip stick will be totally normal.

If the OP's oil was like a milk chocolate, then condensate wasn't the problem.

But still, NEVER run your engine so little at a time.


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