Starts but won't run - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Starts but won't run

I have a 350 SBC in a 67 camaro. I installed a new MSD 8360 ready to run distributor a blaster coil. My problem is that I can get he car to start but will immediately shut off as soon as I release the key from the start position to the run position. I have the purple wire to the solenoid and the MSD just plugs in. I have a wire from my fuse block to the coil and I have the junction block wired directly to the battery. I'm sure I am missing something because the car will continue to run if I turn the key back to the start position. Any suggestions? Thanks
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 06:25 PM
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Re: Starts but won't run

Was this last wired up as an electronic ignition. If there is a yellow wire its no longer going to be used, it was for the point dizz.

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 06:37 PM
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Re: Starts but won't run

1967 ignition and coil wiring

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I am trying to straighten out a mess a PO made of my wiring. There is a sheathed wire in the ignition harness that is attached to the yellow wire that goes from the starter solonoid to the coil. The connector looks factory. Should this sheathed wire connect to the + coil? Does anyone know what it is for? I am using the MSD 6A ignition and distributor. See images.

Those are the original factory wires for the pos side of the coil.

The "sheathed" wire is a resister wire, and that would NOT be correct for the msd distributor, which needs a full 12 volts.

You could cut it out and replace it with a 12 guage stranded wire, or leave it there and also install a new wire from the + coil to the spare IGN terminal on the fusebox.

The yellow wire should stay in place

Jim,

If I leave it there, should I connect it to the coil, or would it get too hot and possibly burn?

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The yellow wire was used to bypass the resistor wire during crank to give the coil a full 12Volts for easier starting.

You'll want to consult your documentation for the MSD box. Some use no ballast resistor (or resistor wire at all). Others need a full 12V to the ignition module, but a ballast is still needed for the coil. The documentation should clear up the confusion. But I suspect you will want to replace the resistance wire with copper and use a ceramic ballast resistor for the coil if your ignition unit calls for it.

Jim is probably more familiar with the MSD 6A than I am. It probably doesn't need a resistance of any sort. I just don't want to mislead you so I encourage you to check the documentation.
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Re: 1967 ignition and coil wiring

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The MSD does not need a resister wire or ballast. Their coils do not either. It's still a good idea to read the directions rather than blindly trust a stranger with a text box.

Leaving the original wires in place won't hurt anything. The new wire will handle the current, and that way you can go back to stock should you ever choose too. It's been a LONG time since I've seen those original wires in such good shape, it'd be a shame to cut them.

For some reason, I'm remembering that 67's do not power the IGN circuit with the key in start, and without the yellow wire you have no power to the distributor. I could be wrong, it's been 25 years since I had a 67.
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Two items not looking correct in the bottom picture.
1. The crimped butt connection - the black wire to the purple wire. The OE purple wire is to the "S" terminal on the starter solenoid. Black wire is extra. Where does it go?
2. The ATC fuse holder by the distributor? Its purpose is

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Last edited by Skeeter55; Aug 11th, 08 at 06:50 PM.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 06:40 PM
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Re: Starts but won't run

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuggettt View Post
I have a wire from my fuse block to the coil

I don't understand what you mean by this statement!!.....Is this an HEI distributor?.....The pink wire, coming from the ignition switch, should be hooked up to the positive side of the coil.....Are you running a ballast resistor?
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 06:58 PM
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Re: Starts but won't run

If I'm not mistaken. There should be a orange, black pair of wires in a sleave. these go to the coil thats it. I have a 6a box and thats what I have. If you have the mag pickup in your dizzy, then the full 12v goes to it from the starter switch as well as the module thats connected straight to the battery.

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 07:13 PM
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Re: Starts but won't run

Sounds like you're getting power from the starter solenoid 'S' terminal up to the ignition, but no IGN power.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 08, 07:48 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Starts but won't run

This was not wired as electronic before. This the original wiring harness for a points distributor. Are you saying I should run a wire directly from the positive side of the coil to the ignition prong on my fuse block and eliminate the one out of my wiring harness that is now connected to the coil? Also, do I need the a wire from the R terminal on my solenoid to the coil? The original wiring diagram for the car show one. Does the original wiring harness have a ballast resistor? I not sure what one looks like or where it would be. Thanks again.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 08, 06:44 AM
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Re: Starts but won't run

The "R" terminal on the starter you don't need with electronic ignition. That terminal is to send 12v to the coil when you start it with points ignition and you no longer need the ballast resistor either.

Charlie Knudsen 67 Camaro RS/SS 350 TKO 600, 4.10's, AFR 195 Street Heads, Comp 270H, Rhoads Lifters, Crane Ignition, Pertronix Dizzy, Performer RPM Q-Jet, Heavily Modified Q-Jet, Hooker Comp Headers, MagnaFlow 2 1/2", 144 Decibles(Alpine CDA-7998 Head Unit, RF X7 and RF 750X Amps, MB Quart Mid's & High's, Kicker L7 12" Solo Barics)
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 08, 07:04 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Starts but won't run

Found the problem. The pink wire was disconnected from the starter switch. I took the ignition out to inspect it and only found 4 wires co0nnected to it. Thanks for your help.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 08, 07:06 PM
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Re: Starts but won't run

Right on.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 08, 07:53 PM
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Re: Starts but won't run

Quote:
Originally Posted by 67CamaroRS/SS View Post
The "R" terminal on the starter you don't need with electronic ignition. That terminal is to send 12v to the coil when you start it with points ignition and you no longer need the ballast resistor either.
Nugget: Congrats...good work.

67CamaroRS/SS: I think some 67's may still require the wire from the R terminal if the original ignition switch is used. Legend has it, that the original 67 ignition switch did not keep the IGN circuit hot during crank.

Dave
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 08, 12:03 PM
 
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Re: Starts but won't run

I'm having the same problem on my Camaro. I just finished rebuilding the engine (305 TBI) in my car. Also, my fuel pump is not priming the system or pumping fuel. (I had to pour a little gas directly into throttle body to get it to crank, then I discovered my ignition problem.) I've check all my fuses and they're all ok. Any solutions?

Could these problems be related? I don't know where to start searching for the problem. Help!
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