Kick panel removal - Team Camaro Tech
Interiors Upholstery & soft trim

 
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 12, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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Jerod
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Mount Vernon
Posts: 486
Kick panel removal

I am having an issue in getting the drivers side kick panel out of my 1969 Camaro. I cannot seem to be able to get at the top screw or what ever that is at the top of the kick panel, but behind the E-brake assembley. How do I get at it. I hope the passenger side is not this difficult. Is it threaded or push in style. If threaded how do you get at it. Thanks, Jerod
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 12, 07:19 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Southeast PA
Posts: 8,303
Re: Kick panel removal

have to remove/lower the parking brake assembly. Remove the screw at dash bottom and the two nuts in the engine bay (near fuse box connector). Leave the cable end attached, and then just move the assembly down and out of the way.

There is a tube/plenum several inches deep on the backside where the vent door sits, and you need some room to get that all the way out.

On the passenger side, you may run into the kick panel hitting the heater box before you get the plenum clear of the body, but it will usually flex enough to get it in and out without moving the heater box.

Eric
69 'vert project big block/TKO 600 RR
68 'vert driver RS clone -- gone!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 8th, 12, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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Jerod
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Mount Vernon
Posts: 486
Re: Kick panel removal

I hope I can get at the nuts in the engine bay, and I hope I do not have to move the hearter box out of the way, as it was just out to put a new heater core in. I thought that a new set of kick panels would be easy to install. Thanks, Jerod
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 12, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Jerod
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Mount Vernon
Posts: 486
Re: Kick panel removal

Thanks for the info, got both of the kick panels out. A real tight squeeze for the parking brake getting in behind the power booster for the two nuts, but got them off with the assistance of extensions. Do I need to use any special glue or calk when I put the new ones in aroung the vent flap. Thanks, Jerod
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 9th, 12, 08:50 PM
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Dan
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 429
Re: Kick panel removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by mjlynch71 View Post
Thanks for the info, got both of the kick panels out. A real tight squeeze for the parking brake getting in behind the power booster for the two nuts, but got them off with the assistance of extensions. Do I need to use any special glue or calk when I put the new ones in aroung the vent flap. Thanks, Jerod
Yes, I had a leak on mine and I pulled them out to reseal them I used plumbers putty all the way around the vent housing. I put at least a 1" bead all the way around. I got mine at True Value but it can be found at any hardware store, including home depot and lowes. Mine came in a brick but I know it also comes in a tub.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 12, 07:27 AM
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Eric
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Midwest U.S.A.
Posts: 484
Re: Kick panel removal

The factory used electricians putty,you can get it at ACE hardware in brick,grey color.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 12, 08:14 AM
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Harry
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 67
Re: Kick panel removal

Plumbers putty will dry out and fall apart....................
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Feb 10th, 12, 01:56 PM
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Dan
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 429
Re: Kick panel removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemervet View Post
Plumbers putty will dry out and fall apart....................
My mistake, it was electricians putty, not plumbers putty. Sorry for the confusion.
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