Clutch and Bell Housing - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 12, 04:58 PM Thread Starter
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Scott
 
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Clutch and Bell Housing

My Camaro has a 396 - 4 speed Muncie, and per some previous questions, having some issues.
After speaking with a tranny shop, he has advised me to get rid of the racing clutch, and consider changing the shattter shield bell housing to a normal original one.

What would be a good clutch assembly to buy, to replace, the one in there, which I assume is a Centreforce.

Second, is getting a big block GM Bellhousing going to be hard to find ?
What do I look for, such as numbers, any pointers etc. To find this bell housing.

Thanks
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 12, 08:23 PM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

No harder than finding one for a small block. You can use a 621 bell with an eleven inch clutch or a 403 wit a 10.5" clutch.

Centerforce dual friction is a nice clutch for the street, I have one and like it a lot.

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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 04:51 AM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

As Bobby suggests, bellhousing size goes by clutch diameter, not by engine family.
All bellhousings have the same bolt pattern.
There is a company making 621 b/housing look-a-like, I will find out the name.

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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 05:14 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

I think the company is Ground up Restorations, and also Ricks carries used
621's. Any thoughts on getting rid of the shatter shield or a good clutch. Ever heard of Hays ?

Thanks
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 05:48 AM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

If you go with a Hays vs a CF Dual friction, you will probably NOT be happy as the Hays clutches have a much stiff pedal (from my exper). I'm currently running a CF DF clutch and couldnt be happier with the very smooth engagement and lighter pedal. Heck, for a street driver with no abuse, you probably could use a 100.00 parts store replacement vs the 300.00 CF DF clutch. Just depends how hard your going to run her.

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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 10:49 AM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

Here's the place:
http://www.muscle-factory.com/shopdi...at=Bellhousing
Personally, I'd keep the scattershield providing it was/is centered about the crankshaft centerline.
Yes, Hayes pressure plates are STIFF.

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 11:04 AM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

x2 on CF DFII. Make sure you get the correct 1st gen fork.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 02:58 PM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

Just curious why your tranny shop recommended getting rid of the scattershield? Is it because they can't do a bellhousing alignment on it?
I have a Lakewood scattershield and I was able to line it up ( and the clutch ) perfectly by using a used 1st gear input shaft something like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-CHEVY-MUN...4336c6&vxp=mtr

You just need a complete used one with the same splines as your tranny/clutch. Install and align the clutch with it and then loosely bolt the scattershield in and then put the shaft back in. The shaft should completely fill the opening in the scattershield. Then leave it in there and tighten down the scattershield/bell around the shaft. After you remove the shaft, your tranny will bolt in nice and straight. The Browell bellhousing alignment tool seems to follow the same idea:

http://browellbellhousing.com/components.html#

( The ring in the picture completely fills the opening in the bell and is the same diameter as a used input shaft. ). I like using the input shaft since you don't need to remove the bellhousing after it's bolted on to remove the alignment tool. Good luck
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 05:11 PM Thread Starter
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

Not saying he is against it, but says most people don't realize they need to be aligned, and says they sell some eccentric rowels or something to do this ????

If I had a 621 Bellhousing standard, I assume I would not need to fart around with this alignment thing ?
I don't have the car apart as of yet, so the scatter shield is something I am not familiar with, but now I know what to look for.
Do I actually need an input shaft, or is one of these line up tools that come with clutch kits, good enough ? ( are these plastic)
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 08:27 PM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

A spare input shaft is nice as it is more rigid but, the plastic tool works too. I used a plastic one with no problem.

If you can get the scattershield aligned properly and get a CF Dual Friction I think you'll be happy.

67 Camaro 350
M20 4spd console,
8.5, 30 spline Eaton posi 373
Cowl Plenum
Custom 180 Headers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-8uYCabSog
black/black
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post #11 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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Scott
 
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

Per my last threads, I am having some problems....maybe you would like to offer your take on it.
I start the car in neutral, no problems with tranny, push clutch I. And out, no issue.
Push the clutch in, put in gear, and get it moving a bit, then push the clutch in to slow down (still in gear) and the grinding/loud noises start. If I let the clutch off half way, it seems to stop, but as soon as I push it backing, noises start. Put the car in neutral, press clutch in and out, and feel like something is catching, and the stick feels it, but not as bad as when it was in gear. There is no noise when I do this when the car was in neutral when I first started the car, so I think it's not the throwout bearing or the clutch, but....why is thing making noise after running, when clutch is in, as the tranny is not spinning at that point.
Wanna hazard a guess where my issue is ?
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post #12 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 12, 10:40 PM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

First thing, go through the clutch free play and see if your linkage is adjusted to where it needs to be.
Run a tape measure from the floor up to the pedal, push the pedal down lightly using just your fingers, and see how far the pedal travels before you feel pressure from the fork/bearing hitting the pressure plate. Needs to be no less than an inch, no more than about an inch and a half. If necessary, adjust by turning the fork pushrod in or out.

Check that out and see if it's still there, then we can move on to stuff that's more of a pain.

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post #13 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 12, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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Scott
 
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

Ok I will do this, however, right now there is nothing holding the pedal up, so I therefore assume there is a slight pressure (from just the pedal weight) against the fingers. If I pull the pedal up by hand until stop and measure that against where infeel slight pressure, will this be the same as your recommendation?
What is the correct location for the spring to pull the pedal back, is it down in the motor compartment, or up under the dash?

Also, this car has a Lakewood Bell housing, and as I am sure you can imagine, inhale no confidence that this was dialed in correctly as opposed to just installed. And frankly, I don't wAnt the trouble, nor is it necessary to have this scatter shield as I am not racing the car, so I am gonna change it to a standard bell housing.
I assume that the standard one, will not need this dialing in ? I looked up then installation of these Lakewood housings and they are calling for no less than .005" runout.
The standard bell doesn't require all this set up does it ?
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post #14 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 12, 07:25 AM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

Original design has a spring from the drvr engine mount/stand to the fork - see the fork hole? This spring pulls back the pedal.

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post #15 of 15 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 12, 10:41 AM
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Re: Clutch and Bell Housing

Quote:
I assume that the standard one, will not need this dialing in ?
While it's apart it makes sense to check the run out of any bellhousing concentrically and laterally just to rule out bellhousing run out as a cause of any future problems.

67 Camaro 350
M20 4spd console,
8.5, 30 spline Eaton posi 373
Cowl Plenum
Custom 180 Headers
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-8uYCabSog
black/black
no radio
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