New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure - Team Camaro Tech
Transmission & Driveline Transmissions and Differentials

 
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 08:22 AM Thread Starter
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Tory
 
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New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Because of the slight roughness of the new gear contact faces and the heavy preloads that must be applied to the new tapered roller bearings, your new rear axle will generate its maximum amount of waste heat in its first few miles. With use, bearing preloads diminish and gear surfaces become smoother. Therefore, the first few hundred miles on a new gear set are the most critical. To prevent premature (and almost immediate) failure of your new gear set, this break-in procedure must be followed:

All new gear sets require a break in period to prevent damage from overheating the gear oil. The lubrication properties of overloaded or overheated gear oil will be diminished. If the gear oil to breaks down, the end result will be catastrophic damage to the ring and pinion.

Avoid burn outs, sudden starts and heavy acceleration for the first 500 miles.

Drive the vehicle gently for 15 20 miles, but no longer than 25 - 30 minutes to build up the heat. Do not exceed 50 mph. Let the differential cool down for one hour. Before driving again, feel the differential with the back of your hand. The rear differential should be cool to the touch. Repeat this cycle five times.

When driving on the highway, vary your speed while avoiding heavy acceleration.

I cannot overemphasize the importance of changing the gear oil after the first 500 miles. This will remove all metal particles, black phosphoric coating and other contaminants shed by the gears during the break in period. The integrity of the gear oil is compromised as a result. The gear oil must be changed.

When a posi unit is rebuilt along with a gear change, the clutch discs will break in and settle as well. There will be additional metal particulate in the gear oil from the clutch discs. Again, it is extremely important to change the gear oil after the first 500 miles. I always recommend a good quality petroleum based 80W90 gear oil with GM Limited Slip Additive.
DO NOT use synthetic lubricants in clutch type limited slip differentials. Synthetic oil makes the clutch discs too slippery. This will not allow the clutch discs to lock up. When the clutch discs slip, one wheel spins. This defeats the purpose of using a Limited Slip differential. Using synthetic gear oil will eventually render the limited slip operation useless.

Tory
1968 Camaro Coupe
1964 Malibu SS Unrestored 36,000 Mile Survivor
1964 Malibu SS Hardtop
1966 Chevelle SS 396
1968 Malibu L-79, 1 of 4082 ~ SOLD
1955 Chevrolet Bel Air Unrestored 15,000 Mile Survivor
1955 Chevrolet Nomad
1984 Hurst Olds with Factory Sunroof, 1 of 99 ~ SOLD
1992 Camaro 396 LS, 4L60, 9" Posi w /3.50:1 Gear Set
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 01:11 PM
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kevin
 
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

I have never broke in a ring and pinion gear. I have one in a gmc pickup that has been in there since 1989 that I replaced.
replace it and drive it like you do when it comes off the show room floor

sound track of my 68 383

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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 02:06 PM
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Tory, a curious thread indeed. Why do you feel the way you do?

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 02:10 PM
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

New cars from the factory didn't have these instructions?

1969 Camaro 383
2.02/1.63 & 234/244 Vortec
TH350 / 12 bolt 3.73
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 02:14 PM
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Of the few rears I built it also states the break-in procedure pretty much as Tory has laid it out in the direction (yes, I read them )
And here is more reading if anyone likes.....
http://www.ringpinion.com/TechnicalH...r_Break-In.inc

http://www.bing.com/search?q=eaton+g...10TR&pc=MATBJS

And in my owners manual for my Silverado it does state about NOT towing (not for the first 500miles)

68 Camaro~LSx
Best to Date....and tuning
1.546 60'.....7.132 @ 94.43 660'.....11.327 @ 116.79.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 06:03 PM
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by DOUG G View Post

And in my owners manual for my Silverado it does state about NOT towing (not for the first 500miles)
Oh oh.
My '15 Silverado 3500 HD just rolled over 1000 (one thousand) miles and all but 100 has been carrying the camper and towing the Camaro trailer. Does a Duramax power train help? It's a great truck, should I change the fluid? There's nothing I've found in the manual but who looks fro rear-end oil changes.

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
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128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 06:39 PM
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Fred, it was under towing.
Don't recall about the fluid until something like 60K+ maybe ?

68 Camaro~LSx
Best to Date....and tuning
1.546 60'.....7.132 @ 94.43 660'.....11.327 @ 116.79.

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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 06:57 PM
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

I did the break in described in Randy's article. I never did in the past but figured something in the lubricant may have changed. Anyway I was surprised how hot the cover was after the first 20 minutes. I also changed the fluid after 500 miles.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 07:15 PM
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alex
 
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Well boys this is news to me.We have done many rear ends all kinds but basically bearings all around and new collar . We have also done gear changes without problem for years went out burned rubber and beat the patooties out of it without problem. Maybe I should start reading the paperwork that comes with the gear pkg other than the bills. I hope Freddie chimes in on this I would like to hear his take on this. Big Gear Head where are you. Alex
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old Sep 14th, 14, 07:50 PM Thread Starter
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred Ficarra View Post
Tory, a curious thread indeed. Why do you feel the way you do?
If the proper break in instructions are not followed, the manufacturer's warranty is void. I have been including these instructions with all of the rebuilt rear differentials that I have sold and not one gear set has come back.

All new gear sets require a break in period of 500 miles. This is to prevent damage from overheating.
Also, there is no towing for the first 500 miles.

http://www.differentials.com/technic...reak-procedure

Tory
1968 Camaro Coupe
1964 Malibu SS Unrestored 36,000 Mile Survivor
1964 Malibu SS Hardtop
1966 Chevelle SS 396
1968 Malibu L-79, 1 of 4082 ~ SOLD
1955 Chevrolet Bel Air Unrestored 15,000 Mile Survivor
1955 Chevrolet Nomad
1984 Hurst Olds with Factory Sunroof, 1 of 99 ~ SOLD
1992 Camaro 396 LS, 4L60, 9" Posi w /3.50:1 Gear Set

Last edited by Camaros-n-Chevelles; Sep 14th, 14 at 08:05 PM.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 14, 09:16 AM
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

I rebuilt my 8.875 big car 12 bolt about 2 months ago with help from this site. 3.55 Richmond with a brand new Eaton Posi, all new bearings and axles. 80/90 Quaker State with a full bottle of GM additive.

Did pretty much as Tory suggested. No real science...was gentle and just kept out of it until I had about 300 miles on it. The first drive included a trip to a parking lot for some figure eights to work the clutches, forward and reverse. There was some slight clicking when making right turns which quickly went away. The first day or two it was limited to a few 1/2 hours drives with cool-downs. Just a rodders common sense with any new precision part really. But Initially, I was really surprised how hot the housing felt which BGH suggested was normal.

Changed the lube at about 500, and it really did have a fair bit of fine metallic particulate in it. Nothing big except one small brass shaving from a drift punch! I believe changing it at this point is a very good practice. $30 and about a hours time is good insurance in my books.

So far, so good on a DIY rebuild. No noise, clunks, chatter or leaks.

Cheers, Mark
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 7th, 14, 10:04 AM
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Dave
 
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

It wasn't until 1919 that EP lubricants that could withstand the heat without degrading were developed to allow a hypoid gear to be used in an automobile (prior to that chains or straight gears where used). According to my 1951 copy of Performance of Lubricating Oils by Zuidema the difference in gear speed changes the loading of the lubricant from 30,000 psi to less than 2,000 psi due to heating with the increase in revolutions per minute. Heat is critical, and the new gear creates the greatest amount of heat as the gears seat. This heat build up explains NASCARS fascination with differential oil coolers that use the drive shaft to power an oil pump to circulate the gear lube.

The reason the dealer wants the car back two weeks after you buy it is to change the fluids. This extends the number of miles you can drive trouble free, which lowers warranty claims which explains why the first oil change is free.

Larger Dave
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old Oct 31st, 15, 03:38 PM
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Fred
 
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

Just read that the 16 Camaro SS comes with a cooler on the differential. (among other parts) Also I called my dealer about the truck. They never heard of a problem like this. But I'm changing ALL of my Camaro oil this off season. Can't hurt. But lordy some of it is expensive. The nearly two quarts in the Gear Vendors OD is $100 a gallon. Tip: I'm changing it to Dexron 6 along with the transmission and PS.
Engine oil will be Mobil1 from Costco. That'll help costs too.

One owner 69 Camaro,(yep, bought it new
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)
RS SS Hugger Orange, L88, 4:10's tru-tack posi, ducted hood, Endura, spoilers.
TH400 (CX) with Coan 8" converter, GV-OD, 8 track still on console and best et 10.495,
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
128.79mph 1.428 60'
All with 1960's stuff. (except tires and converter)
+ MT Super Scavenger headers & 3" full exhaust with X pipe. 3700 lbs. with me in it.
1000cfm AED and HD Harold-Lunati SR, 725 lift with shaft rockers too.
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 16, 10:08 AM Thread Starter
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Re: New Ring and Pinion Break In Procedure

I just wanted to update this thread with the Eaton Part Numbers to rebuild various Eaton Posi Units. This includes the Eaton 8.2, Eaton 8.5 (Not the Factory Posi Units with the square tabbed clutch discs) and the Eaton 8.875.

Eaton 29403-00S ~ 18 steel discs, guides, and shims. This is what the factory used.

Eaton 29590-00S ~ 400 pound preload Spring Pack. This is an upgrade from the Factory 200 pound preload Spring Pack. All new Eaton Posi Units are manufactured with the 400 pound Preload Spring Pack.


Eaton 12 Bolt (8.875) Casting Numbers:

EDB-32088 ~ 2 Series Posi ~ 2.73:1 and down
ED-30140 ~ 3 Series Posi ~ 3.07:1 - 3.73:1
EDB-30174 ~ 4 Series Posi ~ 3.90 :1 and up

The 12 Bolt (8.875) Posi Units use the following:

YSPXP038 ~ Cross Pin
YSPBLT-065 ~ Cross Pin Bolt

Please note that some aftermarket 3.90 gear sets are made for the 3 Series Posi Unit.

Eaton 10 Bolt (8.2) Casting Numbers:

ED32118 ~ 2 Series Posi ~ 2.73:1 and down
EDB30116 ~ 3 Series Posi ~ 3.08:1 and up

The 10 Bolt (8.2) Posi Units use the following:

YSPXPG8.2-P ~ Cross Pin
YSPBLT-066 ~ Cross Pin Bolt

Disassembling the unit and inspecting the individual components is critical to reading the actual condition of the Posi Unit. You have to have the clutches out where you can view that actual wear surface. Dark gray to black is good as long as there are still visible grooves in the surface. If there is a shiny tint towards the center of the clutches with a dark outer ring, then there is about 50% life left. If the clutches are shiny across the entire surface, then they need to be replaced.

Regarding the GM Corporate 8.5 Posi Units that use the square tabbed clutch discs, GM discontinued the rebuild kit in 2009. I am now reproducing the kits.

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=260780

For information on the 8.5 Posi Clutch Disc and Shim Kit, please send me a PM.

Tory
1968 Camaro Coupe
1964 Malibu SS Unrestored 36,000 Mile Survivor
1964 Malibu SS Hardtop
1966 Chevelle SS 396
1968 Malibu L-79, 1 of 4082 ~ SOLD
1955 Chevrolet Bel Air Unrestored 15,000 Mile Survivor
1955 Chevrolet Nomad
1984 Hurst Olds with Factory Sunroof, 1 of 99 ~ SOLD
1992 Camaro 396 LS, 4L60, 9" Posi w /3.50:1 Gear Set
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