Overheating problem - Team Camaro Tech
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 17, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Dean
 
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Overheating problem

I've installed a new Edelbrock water pump, new t-stat and the radiator is full of coolant yet the engine is overheating. The temp gauges sits consistently at 210 degrees and Even when running at 60-65mph the temp gauge wont fall below 200 degrees. I do know that the engine is a little advanced but not that much as to make the engine run that hot.

What about the fan clutch? How would I determine if that thing is working? Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.

1967 Camaro Convertible with a 327, TH350transmission, Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb, Edelbrock 1721 fuel pump & 2701 intake.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 17, 05:56 PM
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Re: Overheating problem

There are no reverse rotation short water pumps, and your 1967 350 should use a short water pump. Thus logic dictates that your pump can not be running backwards tough that is what you are describing, a lack of coolant circulating (assumes there isn't an obstruction like an old shop rag stuffed in a radiator hose somewhere).

Have you checked the accuracy of your gauge against another known good gauge? If it is an electric gauge silly things like painting the hole in the head that the sender screws into could electrically isolate it from grounding out against the rest of the block (head). Plastic paint is an insulator.

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 17, 05:57 PM
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Re: Overheating problem

There are no reverse rotation short water pumps, and your 1967 350 should use a short water pump. Thus logic dictates that your pump can not be running backwards tough that is what you are describing, a lack of coolant circulating (assumes there isn't an obstruction like an old shop rag stuffed in a radiator hose somewhere).

Have you checked the accuracy of your gauge against another known good gauge? If it is an electric gauge silly things like painting the hole in the head that the sender screws into could electrically isolate it from grounding out against the rest of the block (head). Plastic paint is an insulator.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 17, 06:06 PM
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Re: Overheating problem

if you or a friend has an Infrared Temperature gun you could quickly check the accuracy of the gauge (and the actual temp of the engine)

good luck
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 19th, 17, 06:19 PM
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Re: Overheating problem

At 60-65mph, the fan isn't doing anything, the air moving through the radiator from the vehicle's forward motion is what does the cooling. Are you sure your thermostat is working properly? Test it in a pan of water on your stove.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 17, 04:02 PM Thread Starter
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What about a clogged radiator? I've had the car 18 years and have never really done a flush. Could the radiator be clogged at the bottom not allowing enough coolant to flow?
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 17, 04:56 PM
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Re: Overheating problem

Quote:
what about a clogged radiator? I've had the car 18 years and have never really done a flush. Could the radiator be clogged at the bottom not allowing enough coolant to flow?
yes

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 17, 06:03 PM
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Re: Overheating problem

Dean - I use an old school method of looking at flow.
Cold engine - remove radiator cap.
Start engine and let it run.
As it reaches operating temperature the thermostat will open allowing flow.
Watch the rate of flow through the open side tank. Be careful of boiling hot splashing
Once the thermostat is wide open you should see "shooting" flow from the core ends of the tubes to the side tank wall and the level in the tank should increase.
If you have weak flow wait until you are sure the thermostat has opened all the way. I actually wait for two cycles - opens then closes then opens the second time before I pass judgement.

If you have week flow you have either a stuck thermostat, or weak water-pump from impeller damage or loose belt. Check that you have the right pulley and type of pump neck for your engine.

As others suggest bench test the thermostat in a pot of boiling water using a candy thermometer. You should see it start to open about ten degrees before the 180 set-point and be wide open by 180.


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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 25th, 17, 06:49 AM
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Re: Overheating problem

I do something similar to what brian suggested.
Car off, engine cold, remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator. Take the radiator cap off. Have a garden hose handy.
Turn the engine on and let it heat up. If your thermostat is working correctly, nothing should come out of disconnected hose. As the engine heats the coolant, the t-stat should open and water should come out the hose. As the water level in the radiator drops, add water from the hose. I have noticed that usually the water from the hose is cold enough, that the t-stat will close and water will stop coming out of the disconnected top hose.
I do this until the water coming out of the top hose is clean and clear.
Shut the engine off. Drain the radiator, (fastest way is to disconnect the lower radiator hose). Reconnect the hoses. Add two gallons of antifreeze, run the engine with the cap off. When the water starts to circulate again, the fluid in the radiator should drop. When it does, fill the radiator with water. When its at the proper level of full. Put the cap back on. Drive it. Let it cool. Check the fluid level again. Add water to the proper level.
By doing this, you should end up with approximately 50/50 water and antifreeze.
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