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Canadian documented 68SS M22 396 375hp Positraction

10K views 69 replies 17 participants last post by  RPOL72 
#1 ·
Well it has been 3 years since my last post and although I was really looking forward to restoring the family car back to original, life has thrown a few curve balls at me and unfortunately am looking at selling the vehicle. The response from members here was very encouraging and appreciate everyone's input to no end and was hoping for a little guidance on where best to post the car for sale to get top dollar and ensure it goes to a good home and receives the restoration it deserves.

I did write to GM Canada and received the following feed back based on the VIN for this car.

"Vehicle: 1968 Chevrolet Camaro SS 396
Trim: 712-Black Vinyl Standard Bucket Seats
Paint: U-LeMans Blue
Production Plant: Norwood, Ohio, U.S.A.
Shipping Date: March 21, 1968
Model Number: 12437-V8 2dr sport coupe
Engine: 396 CID 375 HP 4bbl Turbo Jet V8
Dealer: Belisle Automobiles Ltd. Ottawa Ontario

Number Imported for sale in Canada
(Same Model Number Only). 5,691

RPO Code Options

W84 Additional Fuel for Delivery
AS2 Head Rest - Special Contour Type Seat
A01. Glass: Tinted-All Windows
D80. Auxiliary Panel & Valance (Spoiler) Rear
G80. Rear Axle: Positraction (limited Slip Differential)
J50. Brakes: Vacuum Power
L78. Engine: 396 CID-Special Hi-Performance-4BBL-V8
M22. Transmission: 4-Speed Manual Heavy Duty-Close Ratio
V48. Engine Coolant-Increase Protection (Antifreeze)

Camaro SS includes: Special Hood, black Accented grill and ornaments, front accent band, hood insulation, special red strip tires, special suspension, bright engine accents, Ss emblems on fenders, grill and filler cap. One of the following engines must be ordered L/48, L/35, L/34, or L78."

I also have the original owners manual with the metal plate, original bill of sale from the dealer Belisle Automobile. The car has 47,468 original miles.

One family owned vehicle since new. I am the second owner. My father was the first.

It would be greatly appreciated if some members could provide some direction on rarity, value and how to get top dollar for it? I.e eBay or different online sites etc.

Sincerly,

Trevor

Ps Just figuring out how to post the pics here. If you don't see them right away, they are posted in the restoration section thread under "Rustoration 68" and I think in the welcome wagon under my user JJW68.
 
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#6 · (Edited)
Hi Trevor, sorry to hear you have to sell. That's a pretty rare and desirable car, especially if it retains the born with drivetrain and the documentation included. Rust is the only thing holding it back. It actually doesn't look all that bad to me, but it's hard to say for sure, looking at the few pics. The more photos you can post of the rust prone areas, the better we can get an idea.

Here's a link to your original post a few years ago...

http://www.camaros.net/forums/34-restoration-corner/266322-rustoration-options-68-a.html

I'm thinkin' it's worth at least 30K as it sets. Could be much more, depending on the rust.
 
#11 ·
Well, looks like all the usual spots have been hit by the rust bugs. Thought it might not be quite that bad, but still think my estimate is in the ball park. That's US dollars. Let's see what the body guys have to say. Also on engine numbers. It looks legit to me, but I'm no expert.

I bet it would do real well on ebay. Just need to figure out what your rock bottom dollar is and set a reserve.
 
#12 ·
Reminds me why I left the salty roads up north for Texas. :smile2:

Don
 
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#13 ·
It does have rust, even after having spent some of it's winter life in a barn, Canadian weather can certainly take it's toll. It's one thing that is garenteed up here.

Good to know it still has some value though. I have never sold anything on eBay before but will certainly set a reserve if it goes to auction. Can a sale on eBay have stipulations that the buyer would be responsible for shipping costs, import fees, etc? All cost money of course to do those things and should be factored in when potential buyers bid, I am just not familiar with the selling protocols for vehicles. Heard of people paying with certified checks to buy cars, loading up in a trailer and the cheque turned out bad for the seller. Anyone with some tips on being a safe seller cross boarder? Cash is king, but eBay is PayPal from what I understand. I'll have to become very familiar with selling on eBay before going that route.

Having a body specialist provide some info considering rust issues would be helpful. As mentioned, I'll take more pics and confirm the rest of the numbers soon. Thanks for the comments.
 
#15 ·
Yes, lots of scammers will try to get you on eBay but you can protect yourself. eBay promotes PayPal but you can stipulate anything you want. Lot at lots of auctions to get good techniques. Common is to require non-refundable deposit within 24-48 hours and then balance on pickup. Cash can be used. Cashier's checks are usually good but can be hacked too. When I bought my last Camaro I met the seller at her credit union with as cashier's check from my credit union and we waited while they called my credit union and verified the funds and deposited them right into her account. Banks can also do wire transfers too right into your account. NEVER use Western Union.

And there's always the risk of a non-paying bidder.
 
#16 ·
No problem at all Daryl, thank you very much. I am going to take more pictures later today of the car and the documentation I have for it. Should I be carful posting certain docs online or omit certain details. I have the orgional bill of sale showing an old address for my dad when he bought the car, the GM Canada history report, and the (protect o)? Plate attached to the warranty manual that came with.

Not sure what the pitfalls could be, so just want to be careful.

If you don't mind, could you please post a new album I'll create later on imgur with more new pics? As you can see, I am having trouble showing them directly in the posts.

Thanks again

Trevor
 
#20 ·
Will do. I have heard of the Guild, but will have to look up Legendary. The value of the Canadian dollar vs the US dollar coupled with fewer potential buyers up here can make it more difficult to get a decent price, but will look at all my options first before pulling the pin so to speak. Thanks for the tips!
 
#23 · (Edited)
Awesome photo of your Dad & the car, Trevor !

The trans has the partial VIN (18N399236) stamped, so assuming it's not a re-stamp, that proves it's original. The P8C05 is assembly date which is a few weeks earlier than the car build date (03C).:thumbsup:

The rear end doesn't have a partial VIN, so we have to rely on the assembly date and application code. BV is 4.10 posi, as you know. I can't quite make out the assembly date stamp, 0?0?. Can you ? Maybe take some emery cloth and rotate it around the axle tube to clean it up a bit. Should check the casting date on the rear end as well.
 
#29 ·
Car looks ok from a distance. Some of your up-close photos are very helpful. Some are a little too close. There looks to be a lot of rust in some areas, making me question other areas. It makes it tough to get a feel on the car as a whole. I'm thinking it might be a donor car with a value between $12k and $18k.
 
#37 ·
I'm gonna say I think it will sell at least for $25K and up. I think with all the paperwork and that car looks like it can be saved , it may go for more than that.
 
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