I'm in the process of switching to a 4 speed from an automatic.

Flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate is on.

I purchased the clutch fork from Jegs, should this work or did i get the wrong one, I did not have one to compare it to, also should I put the bellhousing on the block first then mount the four speed to the bell housing, or should i mount the bell housing to the 4 speed and then mount to the engine?

I tried mounting the bell housing first, but when I looked in the bell housing, it does not seem that the throw out bearing, clutch, and guild bearing hole line up.

thanks

Jason

Bellhousing on the block first, then the trans. Align clutch disc with alignment tool or another input shaft from another trans.

If no alignment tool and you can't seem to get the disc aligned to allow trans to go in, you can get a couple cheap bolts from Home Depot, 4-5 inches long, cut off the heads, screw them into the top two bolt holes, mount the trans onto the newly made guide pins, have an assistant depress the clutch pedal to release the clutch plate, then slide in the trans, install the bottom two bolts, release the clutch pedal, remove the guide pins, install the upper two bolts, install the crossmember, and your done, almost, the heavy part is done. Don't forget to tighten bolts! Make a list if needed.

Sometimes, you can loosen the pressure plate bolts just enough to move the disc and center it by feeling around the plate & disc to center it the best you can by feel. The best alignment tool is another input shaft, then its toss up of the plastic alignment tool or feeling by touch. I, myself have had pretty good luck with finger feel, but experience helps.

Good luck.....

i have that plastic tool so Im assuing that the clutch is aligned. what about the throw out bearing, will the 4 speed put it in the correct place?

Has anyone used the clutch fork from Jegs?

You're confusing me. The shifter attaches to the tranny. The clutch fork to the bellhousing. If your bellhousing is a 403 (last three of the casting number, you need the 10.4" clutch set-up (or it be may listed as a 10.5 in the catalogs). If your BH is a 621, you need the 11" kit. Count the splines on your tranny input shaft,..probably 10, and make sure your disc has the the same spline count (either 10 or 26).

Here's the order of installation (I'm assuming your flywheel was already 'surfaced' before this clutch change,..and the pilot bearing was good or replaced):

1) Disc and pressure plate. Make sure you have the "guide" tool for the disk to make sure it's centered. Make sure the disc ins't on backwards (there's probabaly a sticker that says "engine side". Make sure your PP bolts are the correct ones and torqued to specs. Then remove the alignment tool ($6.99 at your local parts counter if you don't have one)

2) Then fork to bellhousing, then throw-out bearing to fork (I'm assuming the fork boot is installed). Make dang sure the TO bearing is installed (or clipped) properly to the fork,..your clutch instructions should have diagrams.

3) Then as an assembly, install the bellhousing to the back of the block. If the TO bearing gets knocked out of it's alignment, it can be put in it's proper position later.

4) Then carefully insert the tranny through the TO bearing all the way to the pilot bearing. You'll know when the input shaft has made in to your PB (a good feeling).

5) Keeping the rear of the tranny supported (don't just let it hang) install the four tranny-to-BH bolts then the crossmember, shifter, and the rest of the clutch linkage.

6) Fill her with Valvoline 80-90 to the fill plug and take her for a spin,..go easy on the new clutch until it burns in. Some recommend 500 miles, but c'mon,..how about 50 of city driving.

I'm sure I left something out and others can add.

Good luck!

Thanks for the instructions, that is going to help since that is the way i was installing the 4 speed, i just wanted to make sure.

My Bell housing is a 444
I purchased an 11 inch clutch (10 tooth, 7/8 staff), new flywheel, new ARP flywheel bolts, new ARP pressure plate bolts.

I installed the new polit bearing and used the alignment tool for the clutch and pressure plate. torqued all of the bolts.

Now is when my concern started.

Put clutch fork that i purchased from Jegs and it was loose and not tight on fork ball stud. after screwing the bell housing onto the engine, the throw out bearing was not centered. and i have not tried to put the four speed on yet.

I also purchased a new starter- 168 tooth.

So I guess my only concern now is if I purchased the correct fork?

Thanks again for the instructions.

Jason

Here a photo of the alignment that i am concerned about. i tried to wiggle the 4 speed in but did not force anything

It all looks good. The TO bearing will center up when you stab the tranny. One thing I would do (some do, some don't) is remove the paint from all the mounting surfaces,..back of the block, front and back of the bell (I see the back of your BH is painted), and the front of the tranny (doubt your tranny is painted). Thick paint can alter the alignment of the components, and tolerances were bad enough 'in the day',..no need to make it worse.

Good luck!

I'd also remove the paint from the full periphery of the edge of the hole in the bellhousing - even one coat of paint can be enough to make it difficult to seat the bearing retainer on the trans into the bellhousing.

:beers:

Guys,

He doesn't have a truck b/h does he b/c I don't recognize -444???

If he does, he need's an alignment ring that I've posted from where to get in the past....

Let me know.. Thanks,

pdq67

I haven't heard of a '444' bellhousing either, but I just held up a '621' I have layin' around and compared it to the photo and it looked identical, for what that's worth.

They all look identical from the distance. Truck b/h have a bigger hole than auto b/h, hence, the ring needed to make up the difference in size/diameter.

Surely didn't read right does it........

the bell housing is from 65-66 big block chevy cars -vette- #3872444. i got it with the 4 speed. it fits the muncie like a glove.

I still just dont know about the fork

Jason

If it's the heavy duty fork that Jeg's and Summit sell, it's for a 2nd gen camaro and won't work. Get a GM one. If someone doesn't post the part #, a search will find it. You won't get full travel with the Jeg's fork, it'll hit the firewall.

I'm thinking your fork is possibly questionable too...

There are a few different one being sold, and pretty much all but one will hit the firewall before releasing the clutch. It's very hard to tell them apart without a "correct" one to compare it to.

This long post with pics goes thru another members "clutch fork trials" http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=70094&highlight=clutch+fork perhaps it will help you.

I would also recommend using an adjustable pivot ball stud for the clutch fork. Lakewood makes it for GM bellhousings and you can get it from JEGS or SUmmit for about $15. Well worth it when your messing with aftermarket parts and you have the trans installed and WOOPS the fork is now hitting the firewall. Just adjust the ball inward and you can take up the difference.
Especially useful if you ever decide to use a Borg and Beck 3 finger since the height of the fingers is usually different from a diaphragm.

The fork for 69's is GM part # 3892632,..I'm guessing it's the same for your 67. It's still available at your GM parts counter,..about $35.

This may be a stupid question but by GM parts counter are you refering to a Chevrolet dealer parts center.

thanks Jason

yup!

Well everything worked including the clutch fork from Jegs. I had no problems with it hitting the firewall or engagement problems.

Thanks for the help
Jason

Cool! You're welcome!