i want to change my trans from a powerglide column shift over to a th350 floor shift.

im mostly looking for info on the engine mounted kickdown controls. but i sure will take any info that is available on this project.

can someone point me in the rite direction?

thanks a bunch.

Well lets see... The powerglide uses a mechanical link for kickdown, and the T350 uses a cable.

Everything associated with the PG's kickdown comes off.

Getting the T350 cable setup together is pretty easy, depending on the carb you use. Chevy ran T350'd behind small block V8's for 20 years, and the only difference is the type of carb used. For factory setups, that would be either a rochester 2GC 2BBL, or a QuadraJet. They will all fit if they are made for the right type of carb.

All of this stuff is reproduced, or you could go to a junkyard and get the setup out of a suitable doner for a few dollars. Most V8 powered GM midsized car built in the 80's had a T350 and a chevrolet V8 with a q-jet, the boneyards are full of them.

If, like many of us, you are using a Holley or an Edelbrock carb, then in addition to the q-jet cable, you'll need the appropriate "adapters" for your carb. You can find out what these are at the carb manufacturers website, then buy it from summit or jegs or whomever.

You can keep your factory shifter, and can buy a 3 speed detent plate for it.

about the only vehicles i can say not to look for donor parts from is the 74 Monte Carlos and Chevelles- but the rest of the 73-77's might be the same way, i'm not sure. they have the kickdown cable go thru the firewall to the gas pedal. really weird setup. it took me a little bit to figure out how my stock TH350 was kicking down without a cable going to the carb..

As said, you can get the carb bracket from most any Q-jet equipped car/truck, since your pic barely shows a Q-jet. Be sure to get the stud from the carb throttle arm to attach the TH350 kickdown cable to later. However, you can get just the bracket to hold the cable as the bracket bolts, actually slides under, the last two intake bolts, from the dealer for less than aftermarket. A picture is worth a thousand words. www.jegs.com P/N 510-20-45

Use a 6 inch extension housing TH350 and you can use all Powerglide x-member and driveshaft. Hopefully, the flexplate is a dual bolt pattern cause the torque convertor is larger than a P/G.

You can use the existing column shift, IMO would be neat, and the linkage and adjust accordingly. Without getting a different detent plate, requires to have the column torn apart to replace, you would not be able to manually shift to 1st gear.

If you choose to go to console or tunnel shifter and use OE shifter, you would have drill holes for the shifter, and either use riv-nuts or through bolt it with nuts tio the floor, cut a hole for the cable, and attach the cable bracket to the trans for cable support. Then, physically move the neutral/back-up switch from the column, extend the harness, and bolt it to the shifter.

All is not hard to do, just more work, but it can be done.

We recently went from original column shift powerglide to a newly rebuilt TH350 with Hurst Pro-matic floor shifter (had to drill a few holes on the tunnel). With the old Carter afb carb, we used a universal bracket from Advance Auto. I might like to try a Qjet someday. It will go back to the body shop before I can get it on the road. I'm anxious to drive it with the new heads, suspension, gears, tranny, etc.

thanks for the info. i have a few links below showing where im at so far with the motor. the body should be on its way to the shop the beginning of march. i was going to try and work on the driveline while it was away.

the block is a 1968 327. the heads and intake are from a 1967 L79. im trying to stay away newer aftermarket hi performance parts if i can help it. so the closer i can keep it gm looking the better.

once agin , thanks for looking and adding your thoughts.

--bc

I recently did this on my 67. went to Advance Auto, bought a rebuilt th350.These are sold as replacement transmissions.Which means, You have to supply some parts yourself such as dipsticks,flexplate cover,speedo gear,kickdown cable and bracket, the crossmember was really hard to get out due to the dual exhaust it took about two days to complete the swap.It was money well spent.

Nice project. I see you have a 62-66 upper alt bracket, or reasonable replica.