cosmic
May 13th, 01, 06:41 AM
it might work...who knows?
My buddy and I are painting his subframe (removed) and have some rattle cans. I guess he is not going to use POR-15 like I suggested (c'mon Ski, ya cheap-skate).
Is there any household products that will prep the steel good?
What is a good degreaser that doesn't leave a residue?
My Dad used to use 409 cleaner to lightly etch aluminum sheet metal to make it look good. I wonder if that etching is sufficient for good primer adherance, or if the residue will contaminate the surface?
thanks all
madmikeee
May 13th, 01, 12:40 PM
Well Coca Cola is supposed to etch metak if left on long enough but I wouldnt suggest it http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif
There are alot of metal prep chemicals out there. And they are not expensive but you will have to worry if they leave any residue and wash the surface thouroughly after using them.. It has been so long since I have had to prep any steel , much to my dismay, I don;t even know whats out there anymore.. but I am sure you will get some answers soon.
-Mike-
madmikeee
May 13th, 01, 12:40 PM
OH OH!! almost forgot a couple good ones that work pretty well!..
Easy Off Oven Cleaner!!
and Scrubbing Bubbles!
AJBorski
May 13th, 01, 02:34 PM
OK,"D"
Drop the dime on me:P I'll bite and ask the question. Anyone think the POR-15 stuff is worth while on the frame? Or is the rattle can (Primer & Paint) method going to work? The stuff(Por-15) is like $80 a gallon so any thoughts are welcome..(Geezz cosmic you big Poo Poo!!)
[This message has been edited by AJBorski (edited 05-13-2001).]
Joe G
May 13th, 01, 03:52 PM
POR 15 covers a lot. A gallon would probably do 3 subframes if you follow the directions.
I did my floor pans, underside, rear frame and put a coat on most of my subframe.
Started with a quart; still have 1/4 left.
Put 2 coats on, too.
Maybe I did it wrong?
Joe
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69 396 w/SS Trim
Badboatdude@CS.com
69 Pics http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1506559&a=11674961
Spooky
May 13th, 01, 03:55 PM
I just got done with my subframe. I sandblasted it. I only used 1 qt. of POR 15. for 2 coats inside and out. The stuff has a very thin consistancy. I had originaly bought 2 single quarts and 1 gal of metal prep and a gal of marine clean (degreaser). It was one of the best investments I have made so far. Don't forget all the other uses for the stuff plus the small parts ya dont want to paint in 5 yrs.
PS: I used one of the static dusters (the wand kind) to get the whole inside of the frame with POR 15. It is going to make a big difference to me http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif
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69 RS/SS 427 4.11's
2000 Z28 Navy Metallic LS1 6 Spd T-Tops
cosmic
May 13th, 01, 04:15 PM
interesting improvisation with the dust wand! Very Cool! Well, Ski...I think your answers are coming in clear. Out of the millions of rattle canners out there...no one has yet to defend them and say they are better than POR-15! HA! but I know the reality of the situation since I can't even afford to get my car aligned. $$ problems suck, but they have their good sides too...since I haven't had any money, I worked out ALL of the squeaks from my car! It is NICE.
anyone else got any ideas on home metal prep?
gab7584
May 13th, 01, 11:10 PM
I have used muratic acid at $3.50 a gallon at the hardware store. They sell it for cleaning concrete floors. Put a little in a plastic pan for cleaning bolts and small stuff. The stuff works fast! Careful it eats aluminum. Do it in a very well ventilated area and don't have any bare metal parts nearby. The parts must be rinsed real good and dryed as fast as possible, then prime and paint. As for doing an entire subframe maybe you could brush it on and rinse it off? Good luck.
BUD
May 16th, 01, 03:44 PM
Try some phosphoric acid, diluted with some water. A lot of the commercoal products are made from this. Look on the label of a can of Coke, you'll notice it has phosphoric acid in it. It's too sticky and expensive to use in this form.