I know what the ingrediants are and what the literature says, or doesn't say, but how much ventilation and protection from the phosphoric acid fumes do you need?
I've been saturating and rinsing blasted parts for a couple nights now and haven't worn a respirator.... just been doing it out in the open with a fan to move air in the work area.

I always do the PPE thing while painting but haven't while using Metal Ready. Should I jump into a vat of milk and call an ambulance?

i got some in my eye yesterday. i had some on my finger tip (gloves) and i scratched my eye after the wind blew some metal ready in to my eyes. i was using a small hair stylist spray bottle. i went in to the house and rinsed it with water stopped hurting right away.

I've never used a respirator but by all means, protect your skin/eyes, etc. I'm not saying a respirator isn't good sense, though!

I DID wear gloves!!

But I still woke up with a THIRD EYE today!! :eek: AAAAAAAAAAAA!!!!!

I never used a respirator just spraying the Metal Ready. I sure did when I sprayed the POR with a gun though.

I did have one bad experience with the Metal Ready and Marine Clean though...

I wore some rubber gloves while cleaning, then soaking some parts (with the Marine Clean and Metal Ready). At the wrists, the gloves were a little loose and I know some of both products got down into the gloves... it stung a little, but I just stuck the hose in there to rinse out the gloves (while my hand was still in the gloves) and figured I'd be fine.

After wearing the gloves for a few hours, I finished the project and took them off... to my surprise, I had sheets of skin coming off with the gloves! Took a good three weeks before my hands were back to normal!

Now, when I use the stuff, I take an extra-tight rubber band and put it around the wrist... and change gloves more frequently.

I have been overtaken by phosporic acid fumes from a similar product, it is not nice, I'll tell you that!

Protect yourself, what harm does that do?

Yeah, the Metal Ready dries you're skin out something fierce, and gives you a nice zinc coating! ;)
Like you John, I clean the part(s), saturate it in Metal Ready for 20-30 minutes, then do a thorough rinse with a soft brush and lots of water. I must have gone through 12 pairs of gloves in the last two nights already! They're cheap.

I wasn't too worried about the product killing me or anything, but I had so much Metal Ready on some big parts for a long time two nights in a row. At one point it irritated my eye's, which surprized me because of the volume and velocity of air I had moving around.

I was just curious about long-term exposure to phosphorous fumes.

I had virtually no problems with the Metal Ready. Not sure why you guys are spraying it. I brushed mine on all the parts and then rinsed it off later. I didn't have to use gloves because there was no mess made with the product. You guys sound like you practically took a bath in the stuff trying to etch your parts. :confused:

Brush it on in the open air and let sit for required time. Then gently rinse it off. Once rinsed, scrub down with Simple Green and then rinse with very hot water. Done!

No mess...no fuss. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

Due to the fact that I had a lot of trouble getting an MSDS from RestoMotive (why don't they post them on their web site ???) I have Switched to using 'OSPHO' by SkyBright.
Both products use Phosphoric Acid as their base.
Phosphoric is a very mild corrosive acid* that made when Phosphate is dissolved in Sulfuric Acid.
Here is a link to the MSDS for Phosphoric Acid - http://www.efma.org/publications/guidance/section16.asp
I always wear a respirator, goggles or a face shield and 2 pairs of gloves when appling Ospho.

John

* "Corrosive:" A chemical that causes visible destruction of, or irreversible alterations in, living tissue by chemical action at the site of contact. For example, a chemical is considered to be corrosive if, when tested on the intact skin of albino rabbits by the method described by the U.S. Department of Transportation in appendix A to 49 CFR part 173, it destroys or changes irreversibly the structure of the tissue at the site of contact following an exposure period of four hours. This term shall not refer to action on inanimate (non-living) surfaces.

The reason I spray it is because it's easy and convenient. It saturates the living hell out of the part. And that's just misting it on.... not going hog-wild either. The directions say to keep the part wet for 30 minutes and spraying it on definitely does that. Brushing was too much of a hassle.... had to keep going over the part as the Metal Ready dried prematurely.

Originally posted by Infamous:
Brush it on in the open air and let sit for required time. Then gently rinse it off. Once rinsed, scrub down with Simple Green and then rinse with very hot water. Done! You scrub the part down with a cleaner like that before you paint?
Man, I'm screwing these parts up majorly then. I just wash off with tons of water and a soft bristle brush and make sure there's no zinc dust or flakes on the part and then blow the part dry with a compressor. Within a few minutes, the part turns white and gold. :confused:

I've always followed POR's directions and never knew I could actually clean the part with a detergent type cleaner after etching with Metal Ready!

Mingia... another damn step added to the process. No wonder it's taking me 4 years! And now all this work has been for naught!
I should just take out a loan and have a body shop kidnap my car for a year. :rolleyes: I hope what I've been doing will last.

Originally posted by HwyStarJoe:
Brushing was too much of a hassle.... had to keep going over the part as the Metal Ready dried prematurely. Joe;

I had the same problem with MetalReady, with OSPHO it doesn't matter that it dries behind you - you leave it on and just 'knock' the dust off with a ScotchBright pad just before you apply any Primer of Cover coat paint.
IMHO it's much easier to use, less expensive and has never failed me.

That's very good to know John. I hear ya.
Looks like POR's going to take a back seat sometime so I can check it out.

I work the metal ready in with a scotchbrite pad and keep it wet for 20 minutes or so then rinse and dry with a towel. I have done the entire underbody, wheelwells, subframe etc that way and then painted the POR 15 on. It has adhered very well to all parts.

Ditto MickeyT. I never washed again after putting on the Metal Ready, just gave it a rinse and dry.

Please don't take my post wrong - RestoMotive's 'MetalReady' is a fine product as are most of the other products I've used from them.
Being around boats and the marine industries for many years I became used to using OSPHO - and it's application reduces the steps necessary to apply correctly by at least 1 step (rinse) prior to prime or paint.
The last draw for me with the use of the MetalReady was how hard it was to get an MSDS from them. The product they sell is considered a "propriatory compound" and as such they do not have to disclose the makeup of the product. They are required to list major hazardous components for Poison Control and PPE purposes, which they do (Phosphoric acid & Zinc).

Again just to clairify - I have nothing aginst their product or it's use.

It's a Chocolat or Vanilla thingy to me :D

John

I understand and totally agree with you! The only reason I'm going through this 20 step POR thing with my current parts is because I HAVE the stuff already and I like what I've experienced so far. I've never restored a car before so never had any need for these types of products. POR just happened to be the first "rust" treatment I'd used. If I can eliminate a step or two, I'M ALL FOR THAT!! ;)

Now that I've experienced POR and worked with it quite a bit, it's time to try somethng else. But alas, it's too late because I'm almost done NEEDING that type of product! The rest of the restification of my Camaro, at least, is all regular automotive paint. :rolleyes:
Someday I'm sure I'll need something like POR or OSPHO and I'll try something else. I've heard the name OSPHO come up a lot here so that's what it'll be!

Boodlefoof, Highway....I was instructed by the guy at POR-15 to scrub it with the Simple Green. He said this was done to remove any loose residue on the part and Simple Green was the only product that I could use to wash it off. Actually, I made a mistake in the first post...I only rinsed once and that was after scrubing with Simple Green.

I know it sounds weird but so far I've had no problems with any of the parts I've painted.

Well then, I'll wash the parts again. I was going to do some painting tonight as I've got all 4 a-arms, rear spring front brackets, front bumper extensions and the rearend bumpstop brackets hanging up ready for paint. I'll just clean them once more.
I would have been ready to actually take the jackstands away FOR GOOD this week, but for what the shop charged me to blast those parts, I'm definitely NOT taking my rearend to them. I'll accept the hassle and do it myself.