I saved and bought all the metal for the car. Now its time to save to build the motor.
Im looking to build a 383 stroker from a 1970 2 bolt main block. I want roughly 440-465hp, same with torque. I arrived on these numbers because i dont ever want to have to work on it again in the future for more power. this will be more than enough. Now i want to keep the compression around 9.5:1-10.1:1. Im going to go all MSD for the ignition, distributor, etc. I want a cam that can offer a real rough idle (thumpr, etc.) This will be running with a M21 and probably 3:08 gears. It will be a street car with very minor strip use. I have come up with other combos but just cant seem to get the right set up. Id like to buy the internals in a kit, same with the top end. Can somebody just give me a blue print to start with? Thanks!

alex

Sounds like you want low comp and a big cam with 308gears, but only want around 450hp and little track use. I say go with a very mild cam so its streetable, it will make better low end and be faster with 308gears.

You could go with a cam in the 220-230 range, make 500tq and 450+hp, have plenty of midrange tq to work with 308s.

A big lumpy cam with 3.08's and a 2.20 first gear will be miserable to drive in any kind of traffic.

A big lumpy cam with 3.08's and a 2.20 first gear will be miserable to drive in any kind of traffic.
I agree, at least 3.55 with the 2.20 first gear.

I agree also. Only I would run about 10 to 1 compression, maybe a little more. Maybe a 108 lsa to give your lope and to build cylinder pressure. This would also help torque a little.

I was figuring more in the 3.55 range as well. 10.1:1 wouldnt hurt. Im looking to see if somebody can give me an exact build up to run so i have something to start fiddling with. thanks!

You combo sounds like my selection but I use 3.73 gear with Tremac. I narrowed down to and got Scat Profiled crank, compstar rods and srp -16cc pistons used with 64cc Afr 195s. The best cam according to DynoSim and Pats program would be a notch back from XR 282 hydra roller, XR274. I am leaning to more performance than sound. I lucked out and found a 10/20 1970 block with stock bore.

My 383 setup:
350 4 bolt main block
Dart Iron Eagle Heads (200cc)
10.1 compression
XE274 Cam
Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
Holley 750cfm DP
Dyno'd 420HP/445 Torque... Pretty close to what youre looking for
Very very streetable, runs on 93 octane like a dream

Here is a link to a 383 we built for a customer on the TC site
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=106715&highlight=DYNO

And using a 2 bolt main block for a 3.750 arm will not be a as dependable as a good 4 bolt block or you can convert yours to splayed caps but first have the cylinders sonic tested to make sure you have a good peice to start with.

Here is a link to look over on a guy that had problems with his 2 bolt block with a 3.750 crank.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652566

Well ill do the necessary machine work. Im looking for somebody to give me a decent 420hp-460hp 383 combo that they think will work well. ill run 10:1 with 3.55gears. Lots of people are giving me combos using the scoggin dickey internal kit, comp extreme cam, etc. I want to see from experience what somebody on this site currently runs. thanks so far for the replies

Heres my 383:

383, 10.8:1
Dynoed 490hp@5900, 495tq@4500 (1 3/4" dyno headers)
Proform HP750
RPM intake
TFS215R heads home ported - 301/236cfm
350 hyd. roller block
Comp 224/224 .568/.568 114LS (smooth idle) hyd. roller
Scat rotating kit, cast steel crank, 5.7 4340 rods, SRP flat tops.

Its in my Luv (3000lbs), more of a work truck, not so much set up for the track.

Going to be one very fast "work truck"! Oh, ok I could see if you were haulin moonshine then it would suit the purpose.

Here's my (backup race) 383 cid

4-bolt block
cast steel crank
eagle SIR 5.7 rods
Wiseco flattop pistons (Guess around 10.5-1)
Dart Sportsman II iron heads, 64cc chamber, 200cc runners
(Home grown) Minor bowl work, port match
Comp magnum 306 solid cam
1 3/4" super comps 3" dynomax bullet mufflers
Victor jr.
BG Silver Claw carb

Setup is very streetable and runs on 93 octane gas. I run with a powerglide and a "loose" 10" converter with 4.30 gears so that helps a lot on the street and the strip. I guesstimate that it makes about 450 hp, enough to push my 3150 lb 67 to 11.0's with the mufflers on. Idle is the radical thumper that you'd like too. I picked all the parts so I can't give you a "kit" number. These were the parts laying around my garage. Not a bad spare race engine.

thanks guys.. ive decided on a nice built 350sbc haha. i appreciate everybodys replies though.

Just my opinion Alex as i have owned a few 350s and built almost 2 years ago my 383. You WILL miss the torque of the extra cubes. I would suggest you rethink your plan. 350s are strong no doubt but for a street driver I think you will be happier with the extra cubes. I just find they work much better for driveability. :beers:

Just my opinion Alex as i have owned a few 350s and built almost 2 years ago my 383. You WILL miss the torque of the extra cubes. I would suggest you rethink your plan. 350s are strong no doubt but for a street driver I think you will be happier with the extra cubes. I just find they work much better for driveability. :beers:

I agree. Building a 383 from the block-up is as cheap as building a 350 these days, and the extra torque of the 3.75" stroke makes a big difference in street car acceleration. I would also strongly suggest you reconsider and go with a 383. I run 400 small blocks myself and would have a real tough time going to a 350 after running these monsters in a street car. Consider a 10:1 383 with Vortec heads, a 235° @ 0.050" hyd FT cam, RPM intake and 750 Holley with a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" header, and I'd say as a WAG you should be around 440-450 HP and 460-480 ft/lbs torque, and it wouldn't cost you an arm and a leg.

I ran a 400 with Vortecs, times in sig. :cool:

Absolutely.. 383 all the way. For street driving its all about torque...and 383s are all about torque. :thumbsup:

I agree. Building a 383 from the block-up is as cheap as building a 350 these days, and the extra torque of the 3.75" stroke makes a big difference in street car acceleration. I would also strongly suggest you reconsider and go with a 383. I run 400 small blocks myself and would have a real tough time going to a 350 after running these monsters in a street car. Consider a 10:1 383 with Vortec heads, a 235° @ 0.050" hyd FT cam, RPM intake and 750 Holley with a 1 5/8" or 1 3/4" header, and I'd say as a WAG you should be around 440-450 HP and 460-480 ft/lbs torque, and it wouldn't cost you an arm and a leg.

I ran a 400 with Vortecs, times in sig. :cool:

If i had access to another 400 block i would have gone that route instead of the 383. The cubes help alot. The diff in price from the 350 to 383 was minimal but the outcome was big. IMO.

I had a 383 custom built for my 69 vert. Fairly large cam, 9.5:1, 700R4, 3.73. Good lopey idle but very streetable. MSD off road ignition, hooker super comps, Eldebach endurashine dual manifold, initially a hi-rise single. 750 DP demon.
425HP. All acces. except A/C. Very nice powerplant. For Sale with tranny, less than 4K miles, on both. Made the decision to go FI with LSx- more HP. Sorry for the shameless sales pitch, but a 383 is a nice street engine.

Alex,

Here is the 383 stroker I just had built.

http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s...t=MOV01482.flv (http://s154.photobucket.com/albums/s269/RSboom123/?action=view&current=MOV01482.flv)

383 stroker
Eagle forged balanced rotating assembly
Edelbrock E-Tec 200 heads
Crane Gold roller rockers, 1.6 I, 1.5 E
Comp Cams Hyd. Roller 562 L., 248 D., 110 CL.
Edelbrock Vortec Air Gap Intake
MSD Pro Billet distributor, 6AL Ignition.
Holley 950HP carb (had a 830HP but gained +21hp with the 950)
10.50 compression

he is my 383 set up, I am getting ready to buy some AFR heads and a roller cam, but right now i am making around the 450 horse area.

eagle bottom end kit
Aluminiium heads 2.02/1.6
.480 lift cam 231@.50/286 lobe spread is 108 (hyd tappet)
1.5 scorpion rollors
compression 10.41
demon 750
air gap rpm
everything for igniton is msd

It runs like a spotted ape, but with the new heads and the rollor cam (vodoo) i want to be in the 500-525 area. If I come up a little short..

i have a 620 hp 383 in my 1971 camaro, it run high 9s on the motor. buy the best bottom end part you can. i went through a crank every year with cheap off shore stuff. i now have a kriptonite crank have blown the motor up twice and the crank was never hurt. this is a cromed crank cost $2000.00 but it has been worth every penny i no longer have to bebuild the motor just to check the crank for cracks. i run mine to 7800 rpm so maybe the cheap stuff will work on the street, but not for heavy duty use.

Im going to go 355sbc now. I found a perfect combo to run from an article i read. Thanks for all the replies.

i have a 620 hp 383 in my 1971 camaro, it run high 9s on the motor. buy the best bottom end part you can. i went through a crank every year with cheap off shore stuff. i now have a kriptonite crank have blown the motor up twice and the crank was never hurt. this is a cromed crank cost $2000.00 but it has been worth every penny i no longer have to bebuild the motor just to check the crank for cracks. i run mine to 7800 rpm so maybe the cheap stuff will work on the street, but not for heavy duty use.

What's your car weigh and what is the rest of your combo? 620 HP is not nearly enough power to run high-9s in a typical 2nd gen Camaro. A guy over on the 2nd gen Camaro board made a dyno-verified 600 HP out of his 408 and his car is set-up for track use specifically. His best runs at that point were in the 10.90 range on slicks.

3150 lbs with me in it. 5.43 gears 16x33 goodyear slicks. 5500 stall shift at 7800 rpm powerglide runs through the traps at 7800. not your typical 2nd gen camaro i guess. but we were talking engines not cars.

3150 lbs with me in it. 5.43 gears 16x33 goodyear slicks. 5500 stall shift at 7800 rpm powerglide runs through the traps at 7800. not your typical 2nd gen camaro i guess. but we were talking engines not cars.

Okay, well that certainly explains a lot. :D Serious track missile you got there. :thumbsup: