Hi. Need some help with my HEI conversion.
I have a 1969 Camaro V8 350 with the stock wiring harness. I installed an HEI distributor and a ZZ4 crate motor. What do I have to do to make this work with the stock harness? I also noticed that the alternator wires are different too. Please help. Please email me directly at 6781camaro@tampabay.rr.com
THanks
Todd

Make sure you have 12volts to the battery terminal on the cap and a good ground.
Lose the resister block.

My '69 had a resistor wire. I unwrapped the wiring harness in the engine compartment and located the resistor wire. I then took the black plastic box that all the wires come out of off the firewall. It is attached to the fuse block and requires a socket to remove, not sure of what size. I then located the resistor wire and popped the tab out. I cut the resistor wire off the tab and soldiered a piece of 10 gauge wire to the tab and popped it back in. I re wrapped the wires, installed the wire block back to the firewall and it works great. HEI requires at least 12 volts to operate correctly.

The alternator depends on which one you have. Do some research on that or maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in on that.

Ifound this helpful.....http://www.camaros.net/techref/ftecref5.html

I would add to supv26's post to say that instead of soldering a wire to the old terminal, get a replacement terminal from the autoparts store instead. Crimp the new terminal onto a new copper wire and put it in the same connector hole the resistance wire came out of. A small brad nail will lift the tang on the connector pin and allow it to slide out the back. Solder doesn't stick well to those old terminals. What seems solid today will eventually break and leave you stranded by the side of the road with a very difficult problem to troubleshoot. Be sure to put some new sealant in the back of the connector (engine comparment side) to keep the water and crud out. Avoid using RTV -- urathane sealer is better for this and is what the OEM used.

If replacing the terminal isn't an option, consider cutting the resistor wire about 2" short of the firewall connection and butt-splicing your new copper wire to it. The short piece of resistance wire won't add a significant amount of resistance to the circuit. I like to use the non-insulated but splices. I dope them up good with dielectric grease, crimp them and put a piece of heat shrink over the splice to keep the water and dirt out. Just be sure to put the heat shrink over the wires before you splice. :clonk:

Year-one actually sells the wire for this p/n L00510. It has the correct terminals and is the correct color. They have the tach wire too!

Dan E.
69 SS396 4spd 4.10 posi x66 coupe

Thanks for the help. What about the voltage regulator? I have a new style alternator now. I already changed the plug on the alternator, but the voltage regulator is still there.
Todd

Thank you for the help. What about the voltage regulator? I have a new style alternator now. I already changed the plug on the alternator, but the voltage regulator is still there. How do I bypass that part?
Todd

THanks What about the voltage regulator though? I have upgraded my alternator to the new style SI plug. Will I need the voltage regulator now and if not, how do I bypass it?
Todd

6781camaro, I've noticed some times that the web site doesn't digest your post immediately, but it does register the submit. As a result, if you get impatient and hit the submit button again it will double post. What I usually do now is if it doesn't seem to take the first time, I hit cntl+a to select all my text and cntl+c to copy it. Then I refresh the screen. Usually I see my post and don't have to cntl+v my text into a new edit window.

Anyway...back to your regularly scheduled program. :D

For the alternator with internal voltage regulator look in the electrical sticky section for the conversion wiring and you will be all set...
TTFN
Mat

here's a picture of my delete of the regulator

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w67/dale68z/Img0096.jpg

I did this: I hooked up a seperate 10 guage wire and plugged it into the ignition pin inside the fuse block on the inside of the car, then ran it to the posative to the distributor. The original wire to the posative was disconnected with the yellow wire that runs to the starter, caped off and shoved into the black wire gutter mounted to the firewall. I now have 12 volts and no one is the wiser. Worked great and only took about 15 minutes.

Here's that sticky on the regulator conversion http://www.camaros.net/techref/electrical/dnult_alt/

Short version: connect the top and the bottom wires on the regulator connector together.
Connect the 2 middle wires on the regulator connector together.

I have seen plugs in the help section of spme auto parts stores that will plug right into the regulator and do this.