I removed the upper dash panel (and a gallon of Bondo) on my 68 yesterday and I was wondering what to use as the sealer between the cowl and the dash. It looks like the factory used some type of round sealer. I'm talking about the area just forward of the speaker grill, not the area where the windshield sits and it is spot welded. I tried to use the Eastwood spotweld cutter and after 4 hole where cut out on the dash face it wouldn't cut anymore. Out came the grinder. Hey on a positive note I was able to get into the locked glovebox and the radio face plate was in there and it was in good shape.



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Scott
68 SS BB project car

hi, i had to replace my dash also, and what i used was the stuff you buy at like lowe,s hardware. it,s like on a roll and about 1 inch wide,it,s made to caulk around a bathtub.but it worked perfect and water proof also.it,s got a sticky feel to it so it stayed in place.i drilled holes in my new dash and layed it down and marked the area in the tape stuff, cut a dab there an welded perfect.hope this helps

For a good spotweld cutter that lasts, get a Blair arbor and cutter..They work better and longer than Eastwoods version and available at auto paint stores. Use 3/8" on most spot welds and 1/2" on rocker panel welds.

Panther,
Roughly what do they cost? I had about $30. (with shipping) in the one I have. I oughta send back. Hideway... thanks for the advice, I will do what you have said or go and get a windshield ribbon kit and use that.

Thanks

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Scott
68 SS BB project car

Just picked up a 3/8" spotweld cutter part # 770-3841 and 3 peice 3/8" replacement blade set Part # 770-3841 at NAPA for $28.18, Cutter was $10.29 and the blades were $17.99

Now the real fun begins the rear tail panel

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Jeff 67/68 & 69 RS's
65 442 www.hobbystage.net/camaro/hawaiiancamaro (http://www.hobbystage.net/camaro/hawaiiancamaro)

on the spot cutter. i tried the spotweld cutters and they did not work well at all.i then went to a local hardware and bought what they call a bullet bit, it has a little center sticking out sorta like a spotweld cutter. they are a LOT cheaper and worked a whole lot better.

With a Blair spot weld remover, I can remove a spot weld in about 3 seconds. They work REAL well. I can also remove about 30 spot welds with ONE side of a Blair cutter. The trick is to keep the RPM down <3500, Use a pilot punch, and DONT angle the cutter too much. After you get the hang of them, they're the fastst way to remove spot welds.

Are you guy's talking about the whole dash, or the upper metal piece between windshield & dash pad? I may have to do a entire dash swap at some point.

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Steve
67 396 race car project
67 SS 396,4-sp mothballed for resto
67 RS 327,4-sp
72 RS 350/350, under current resto
69 4X4 suburban 350,4-sp
73 3/4 ton 454/400
Stevo Camaro's Toy (http://www.geocities.com/stevocamaro)
Our Muscle Cars (http://community.webshots.com/user/steve_lynell)

I was refering to the upper dash section between the dash pad and the windshield. This piece has the grilles for the speaker.



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Scott
68 SS BB project car

Use G.M. Firm seam sealer. Goop it on and into the seam as far as possible. Then smooth at with a small brush for the factory look. Be sare the metal is clean and the seam sealer is actually suppose to go on after the primers and before the paint.

Good Luck
Chris

69 RS (under construction)
96 LT4 Collectors Edition Corvette

I wish those repro upper dash panels had the correct "angled" speaker grill slots...