What is the best best to set up my compressor to spray paint? My compressor produces a lot of moisture. I know about drip legs and seperators. Is there something else that really works well?

If it is alot of moisture I would go with a moistor separator and then use one of the small plastic ball type separators that mount near the gun (available from any AB paint supply).

I have a separator on it already and it don't do it. Have you or any one ever used a desacant type filter?

I just use the seperator at home, but use the desicant dryers at work. If you have alot of water in the system, youll find that you will be changing the desicant alot(but it works).It helps also to keep the drains open after use everytime.

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67 Camaro SS Conv.
70 Challenger R/T Conv.

Give a detailed description of your compressor and the routing, type of pipe used and size of the pipeing. There are a lot of reasons this can happen. And tring to take the water out is hard, eliminating it before it starts is the way to go. I have even seen where the guy moved the pipeing down from the ceiling and put it on blocks to stand it off the wall so it could get air around it, cured the problem.

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Fan of anything that is interesting and moves human beings.
1965 Buick Gran Sport Convertible
1965 Buick Skylark H/T
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If the moisture separator is 25' or closer to the compressor, it isn't doing much. I have 50' of hose between the compressor and separator and 25' between the separator and gun. Plus I run a separate disposible filter (type that Eastwood sells) at the gun.

Right now I just have a single stage with a seperator mounted to the tank then a 50' hose. The hose is lying on the cement floor. I know that doesn't help. It will be in the air when I paint. I built a new barn and want to lay the air system out the best way I can.Thanks.

You really should think about hard plumbing your air lines. The way I did it was run down from the compressor a few feet, then back up to the ceiling. Ran for about 25' then down again to a "T" fitting. Bottom of the "T" is about 2' of pipe and a drain valve (most of the water collects here). Side of the "T" goes for about 2' more, then seperator and hose connection. This allows alot of the moisture to collect in the lower pipe and makes the seperator's job easier.

Make sure you drain the tank and line before and after each use. Keeping the seperator as close to the gun as possible is a good idea.

Don't know if this helps or not (kinda hard to describe). I could e-mail a diagram if needed.

[This message has been edited by jm69ss (edited 10-06-2000).]

I am planning to hard plumb it in. I just want to know the best way and what devices to use. Your info is helpful. Bonecrusher67conv. said he had 50' to seperator and 25"to the gun. I am not sure if my 61/2 hp comp. will handle the gun if I put 75' of hose on it. My comp. is not a two stage.

i sent you e-mail of a scanned setup i found in a sandblast catalog, i followed this system with a 5hp single stage and it works great. The rubber hose deffinetly is not helping you, and with the single stage you must drain at every use. There ratings of 9 + cfm at 90 psi is optimistic, and at 40 psi i think they are about 11.5cfm. Most paint guns will use at least 12cfm like the binks 7gun, the newer hvlps are rated for about 7cfm. Any of which will run the compressor almost continiously (sp?) which causes them to run hot and create extra moisture. Anyway hope the picture helps, check your mail.

THANKYOU SAD67