I'm first in line to buy this car, it didn't meet reserve!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320099993699&rd=1&rd=1

Per conversations with seller:
- Have owned the car several years, painted before he purchased it
- Poor quality several year old paint job, looks good at 10 feet or more
- Top and rear window in good condition, small tear in top
- Era correct 327 w/ flat tops, camel hump heads, stock style intake & exhaust manifolds, Q-Jet
- About 1K miles on engine rebuild
- Block allegedly has correct #s for L30 275hp option (4P on cowl)
- Previous owner reportedly went to great lengths to find correct block
- Muncie 4-speed, but don't know if it's original
- 12-bolt rear with factory traction bar and aftermarket 4:10 gear
- No known or visible rust through anywhere
- Rear dampeners missing, don't know about front ones
- Runs and drives fine, headlight door motors redone and working
- Recent battery, carpet, heater core, radiator shroud
- Power steering and manual drum brakes that work fine
- No radio
- Tires in good condition but several years old
- Factory style exhaust in good condition, don't know if AL or steel
- Deluxe interior in good shape but shows age a little (no rips/tears)
- Local mechanic who seller knows well says car can be advertised as "rust free Southern car" and says body panels appear original

What would be a good price? I'm thinking mid 20's at the most? I'm all ears. Thanks! :thumbsup:

Upper 20's.

Since it's a highly prized and beautiful color convert, mid 20's is probably minimum. It may not be an SS and I like that it isn't badged as one. You would need to know where the speedometer cable exits the firewall to determine an SS or not. The 327 came with a Saginaw 4 speed and the cable exited on the left of the steering column, same as the Powerglide. The Muncie cable exited to the right of the throttle cable and was only used with the 350. Also, knowing the build date on the trim tag would be helpful in that determination. Either way, it's a VERY nice looking car and the L30 was a very close competitor to the L48.....:thumbsup:

Good Luck......:yes:

You say left or right of steering column, Is this sitting in car or looking at firewall?

Left is always drivers side....as if sitting in the seat. So when looking at the firewall it will be on the right of the column....:D

I say mid to upper $30's out west. As a comparison, here is a comparable conditioned 230 L6/3spd non-RS convertible, which the seller is asking $30k for. I'd say the blue RS is worth at least $5-8k more...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/car/309430599.html

According to the 8 the bidders on ebay, it's worth 19.6k. If it were worth more, people would have bid more.

Ed

According to the 8 the bidders on ebay, it's worth 19.6k. If it were worth more, people would have bid more.

Ed

OK then.....That settles that! :D

car looks good . but but hows car underneath no pics. its looks good but i would look under car before buying hows frames, back frames ruster underbody. anybody could paint and sell it to look good. beware hate you to spend 20,000 and underneath gone.

car looks good . but but hows car underneath no pics. its looks good but i would look under car before buying hows frames, back frames ruster underbody. anybody could paint and sell it to look good. beware hate you to spend 20,000 and underneath gone.
I requested and received numerous pics of underneath (to look for rust, verify 12-bolt w/ factory traction bar, etc.). Looks solid, seems to substantiate the "rust free" claim. And it does have a 12-bolt w/ factory traction bar (aka radius rod?).

This is very true, Ed. The car is only worth what someone will pay for it. The 8 people that saw and bid on it during the week it was on eBay, felt it was worth 19.6k. He could relist it next week and get a whole new crowd and sell it for much more.....it's very unpredictable on eBay.

According to the 8 the bidders on ebay, it's worth 19.6k. If it were worth more, people would have bid more.

Ed

I requested and received numerous pics of underneath (to look for rust, verify 12-bolt w/ factory traction bar, etc.). Looks solid, seems to substantiate the "rust free" claim. And it does have a 12-bolt w/ factory traction bar (aka radius rod?).

Have you made any headway on it ?? I'm not especially a convert fan, but the Marina Blue with white is a favorite of mine. It really is a beautiful car...:yes:
May the Force be with you on your quest.....:D

This is very true, Ed. The car is only worth what someone will pay for it. The 8 people that saw and bid on it during the week it was on eBay, felt it was worth 19.6k. He could relist it next week and get a whole new crowd and sell it for much more.....it's very unpredictable on eBay.





Have you made any headway on it ?? I'm not especially a convert fan, but the Marina Blue with white is a favorite of mine. It really is a beautiful car...:yes:
May the Force be with you on your quest.....:D
In response to bertfam@pcmagic - E-bay bidders are often looking for a bargain, and I believe the car is worth more than $19.6K. Agree with MD88IROC that it can be a crap-shoot.

In response to MD88IROC - Awiating response from forum member in the area to look at the car for me ASAP.

Awiating response from forum member in the area to look at the car for me ASAP.

:thumbsup: Smart move....that's the best way to "see" it without being there. I have used that with a couple in the past and should have used it for a "certain" one I just sold.
I'll keep HAPPY thoughts for you....:hurray:

Chevy1, I agree completely. EVERYBODY wants to find a deal. (Who doesn't!!)

But ebay is (generally) not the place to go for bargains. Way too much exposure... You usually find the deals locally by stumbling onto them.

However, that being said, I was looking for a 1969 Corvair Convertible last year for my daughter. There was one listed on ebay that was local to me. The only thing I didn't like about it was that it didn't have the original engine. I didn't bid just to see what it would do, and the car didn't meet reserve. (It missed by about $500.00). I contacted the seller and asked if I could come look at it. After doing additional research and finding out that he knew where the original engine was, I went ahead and offered him his reserve price IF he would go get the original engine for me. He agreed and the deal was struck. So I got my bargain, and he got his reserve.

There's a lot of give and take in the used car world. Even on ebay. If you do your research and are willing to do some leg work, you can get a good deal.

Ed

10 year old plus poor quality paint job as you mention. Thats a big deal in my opinion. Figure at least 8k if you gonna hire someone to strip and paint the car with a good paint job. Maybe more. So its an L30/M20...is that the conclusion here? Im saying its worth mid 20s..on upper end.

TTT. Inspection report is back. Paint job is actually OK to good with a few blemishes - definitely presentable. Car is rust free and "one of the most solid I've seen" according to long time first gen Camaro owner who inspected it. Interior looks good. Engine numbers are correct for L30 (275hp 327) and align with cowl tag having 4P on it (but not an SS [350]). Definitely has 12-bolt with factory traction bar. New battery. All dampeners are missing. Seller and I are only about $1500 apart so I'm calling him again tomorrow.

Anyone thinking differently on price now?

TTT - New/additional information below. I'm not crazy about the color and am really considering buying it and painting it bolero red. Want a nice driver, not an all-original trailer queen. Personally feel that if I ever sold it, a red paint job would actually help despite the factory color being marina blue. The price of adding a nice paint job to this very solid, rare car is the same as buying the ones I'm finding that are modified non-original RS or SS cars.

- Speedo cable exits on left side of column, so originally a Saginaw
- Seller's mechanic confirrmed the current trans is a Muncie
- Paint is pretty good, no repaint required anytime soon
- Runs and drives fine (had someone test drive it for me)
- Rather quiet due to factory style exhaust
- Engine was rebuilt with 2.02/1.60 fulie heads, only has ~1K miles on it
- 4.10 gear may be original?

My plans if I buy the car:
- 15x8 Corvette ralley wheels & 60-Series tires (may sell 14x6 wheels on the car now)
- Front disc brake upgrade (would probably keep original parts)
- Flowmaster or Dynomax mufflers (may sell the original parts)
- Intake manifold and headers (would keep the original parts)
- Add a radio and speakers
- Paint (longer term)

Thoughts? Opinions? Thanks!

Mid 20's is a good buy. Don't get too excited by the L30/M20 combination its still a base car. I've owned several hardtop L30/M20's and own a 68 L30 auto ragtop now. Although the camaro enthusiast might give the combo a nod the $$$ for the setup is depreciable at resale as noted in this auction. The car would have brought more money with an SS hood, sorry to say.

"Thoughts? Opinions? Thanks!"


I'm not sure I would do much to this car at all! Just enjoy it!!!:thumbsup:

I believe both Bolero Red and Marina Blue are an even selling points for the future!
The fact that it mostly original minus the tranny would make me want to keep it Marina Blue!

That's a nice car!:)

I stand corrected. Earlier i had said mid 20s on the upper end. In light of the additional info you provided and looking at the pics again.. i would say mid 20s would be a good buy. Looks pretty damn nice/clean in the pics. I cant believe the auction didnt bring more $$.

I requested and received numerous pics of underneath (to look for rust, verify 12-bolt w/ factory traction bar, etc.). Looks solid, seems to substantiate the "rust free" claim. And it does have a 12-bolt w/ factory traction bar (aka radius rod?).


I dont care what pictures look like. Sometimes they make the car look better or worse. Go look at it in person. It looks like the rear quarters and lower tail panel have lots of mud in them. But thats the pics. Go look at it in person and save yourself some money and pain.

I dont care what pictures look like. Sometimes they make the car look better or worse. Go look at it in person. It looks like the rear quarters and lower tail panel have lots of mud in them. But thats the pics. Go look at it in person and save yourself some money and pain.
There were updates since that information was posted. A knowledgeble Camaro person from this Forum viewed and drove the car for me, said it was one of the most rust free he's ever seen.

Don't get too excited by the L30/M20 combination its still a base car. I've owned several hardtop L30/M20's and own a 68 L30 auto ragtop now. Although the camaro enthusiast might give the combo a nod the $$$ for the setup is depreciable at resale as noted in this auction. The car would have brought more money with an SS hood, sorry to say.

Sad but true, the L30/M20 gets no respect come sale time....:(

Sad but true, the L30/M20 gets no respect come sale time....:(
Why? Because most people who see "4P" on the cowl expect an SS? Or lack of knowledge of the rarity of the L30/M20? Something else? Would this car be perceived as worth more if it were only an RS (no 4P, no 12-bolt, lower hp engine, etc.)?

Just because it's not an "SS". Everyone knows what an SS or Z28 is, but L30/M20's are just not well known as something special or desireable.

Mid 20's is a good buy. Don't get too excited by the L30/M20 combination its still a base car. I've owned several hardtop L30/M20's and own a 68 L30 auto ragtop now. Although the camaro enthusiast might give the combo a nod the $$$ for the setup is depreciable at resale as noted in this auction. The car would have brought more money with an SS hood, sorry to say.
I just want the car to be worth at least little more than I pay for it (today). It should hold it's value and/or appreciate over time, I just don't want to overpay in the first place. It's like real estate - your buy price is critical and sets the stage for future events.

I just want the car to be worth at least little more than I pay for it (today). It should hold it's value and/or appreciate over time, I just don't want to overpay in the first place. It's like real estate - your buy price is critical and sets the stage for future events.

Quit worrying about it. I overpaid for mine if it makes ya feel any better. These cars are made to drive and enjoy..not fret over future return on investments.

I just want the car to be worth at least little more than I pay for it (today).

I agree with what has already been posted! Don't sweat too much, if you do slightly over pay, the way these cars have proven themselves great investments, soon the price you paid will be more like a bargain!!:yes:

Quit worrying about it. I overpaid for mine if it makes ya feel any better. These cars are made to drive and enjoy..not fret over future return on investments.
I'm not worrying about it and plan to fully enjoy the car. Just don't want to feel I overpaid or was ripped off. One of my many bad habits is to universally apply basic monetary principles. :)-

It's hard to apply basic monetary principles to a 40 year old car with an original sticker price of $3000 :) I think the advice was sound that if you could buy it mid 20's you should be just fine with being able to enjoy it now and liquidate it at your desire without the depreciation associated with driving an 07 ragtop off a dealer's lot. I'd love to drive my GMC Envoy for a few years and then get full sticker back for it at trade in LOL.

So..did you buy it? Enquiring minds want to know. :)

So..did you buy it? Enquiring minds want to know. :)
Nope, decided to pass on it and keep looking. It was sold to someone else for $25K (per seller).