I have a 91 and am developing rust in the usual places, door bottoms, inside fender lips, dog legs. It's just starting from the inside out. No visible exterior paint damage yet. I'm just looking for a way to stop it or at least slow it down. Is the product Miracle Paint useful in stopping rust in these areas, like iside fenders and floor pans?
Any guidance greatly appreciated
Thanks
Dave

Dave - use the search function on this forum. You will get lots of suggestions on fixing rust problems.

Do a search on POR15 and/or Rust Bullet. I used Rust Bullet and it seemed to have worked pretty well for me but only time will tell.

Ever use something like Naval Jelly? Osphro? Its found at most hardware store. Then paint with POR

Ever use something like Naval Jelly? Osphro? Its found at most hardware store. Then paint with POR
I use it too so far so good, I used another simalar thing on the pass side , I 10 years I get back to you on the one that works best! He He

You can use POR15 by itself.

The POR 15 people recommend getting as much rust off as possible, then cleaning with their Marine clean, washing off, then apply their Metal Ready that puts on a galvanised coating, then that gets washed off, dryed, then the POR 15 goes on. If light can get at it, they advise topcoating because the POR 15 is UV sensitive. Its not just a matter of putting on the POR 15 if you want to do it correctly.

Eastwood makes a product called Encapsulator. I have used it over rusty metal and as a primer with very good results. However, time will tell.

I used Rust Bullet and I am real happy so far. Like everyone sayes time will tell. Check out their website. I can send you some before and after of my car.

I would rather build 20 engines then do rust maintenance and body work. I do drive a 70z28 and an 84 242 Volvo GL. I live in Northern Ontario - the RUST Capital of the World and this is what I do:

For Daily Drivers and some permanent cosmetic applications, I mask off about 2“ along the bottom of the car: around the fender lips rocker panels what ever is atheistic looking – so that I can service the area about every 2 years or longer. 5 years if I’m lucky. When I see chips, paint blisters and the usual signs of rust, it’s time do something.

Cleaning is the First Step – Soap Detergent and lots of air pressure and clean water get it dry, then Lacquer thinner – get it clean so that when you are working you do not spread oil grease and mostly stupid hateful “ SILICON” Fish Eye - Armorall crap.

After cleaning scrape with chisels screw drives what ever will fit into the rust area. If the area is weakened with pit holes leave it at this point but if it requires new metal cut it out. SANDBLAST. Shoot Epoxy Undercoat Primer, RM or Tremclad don’t matter (I use RM). Air Brushes set for max flow are handy in small areas. Use paper to make templates with 3/8 overlap for area cut out and once the metal is fitted, epoxy glue the piece with metal screws. When Glue is cured remove the screws. If there are is just pinholes use Epoxy Glue as filler. Wet sand off the Epoxy excess and re-shoot again with Epoxy Primer. Use Bondo Pro Light Weight to smooth off the work area. Shoot a final coat of Epoxy Primer, wet sand with 320 and apply paint of your choice or Krylon Black enamel on Rockers and fender lips. You can use the same procedure on floor Pans if they do no require massive reconstruction.

I have rusted areas repaired in this manor that are over 20 years old and look like it was never patched and what’s really convenient is that you do not use a torch that warps metal, blisters and peals surrounding paint.

With this technique you can: spread, clean and re-pinch serviceable body seams and Windshield areas ... etc.

Once you have repaired your lower door seams use a Light Oil Rust prevention product such as Rust Check. I will use grease along the cars lower chime line, Fender lips, Rocker Seams ...etc, if it is driven in winter.

Hopes this helps - Have Fun - :o))