Well......This is a first for me.:o Body work that is. Does anyone have experience with spot weld remover bits?? I have been through 4 and managed to get out one:confused: Is there an easier way?? The bit walks all over the place. Maybe use a center punch.... Here are the latest pics http://s165.photobucket.com/albums/u74/67restoproj/ Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

When I replaced my quarter panels, I first used a spot weld remover which didn't work to well at first. It did work better when I used a punch to make a mark and stop it from moving around, but still not the best results. What worked for me is that I used a drill bit one size larger than the weld, and drilled slowly until it popped loose. On sections that I could see the other side, I would just run the drill all the way through to remove the weld and to leave a spot on the old metal to pug weld it back together with the new metal. All in all the drill was much faster and made welding the new metal easier, just clean the hole left by the drill (like grinding the left over shavings) and use the hole to weld it back together. It was my try at replacing a quarter panel and it came out pretty well, clean and straight. Hope this helps.

What type of spot weld remover did you buy? Most have a pilot drill bit that drills a small hole through and keeps the bit from moving around.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=14686&itemType=PRODUCT

I like to use a 4 inch electric grinder. I first use a propane torch and a wire brush to remove paint and sealer and to locate spot welds. Then i grind over spot welds far enough to just cut off outer panel metal. split the panels apart with a chisel and smooth out the rest of the spot weld. Grinding wheels are very inexpensive. Also this way you don't have that pilot hole left in metal to fill

The type that look like little hole saws are flat out junk!
For your needs a brand called Blair makes a great weld remover. They work much faster, better and last way longer.
try doing a web search, looking at your local autobody supply store.
I think www.autobodytoolmart.com carries them.

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-11591-14293.aspx
Thats what I would use...Eric

But the ultimate method is to use something like this
https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/p-10885-13329.aspx
Mine is made by dent fix and removes a weld in about 2 seconds.

sevt chevelle is correct about the type that look like hole saws. I went through 6 of them before I managed to get my Firewall off. I talked to my bodyman and he turned me on to these,,http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1160&itemType=PRODUCT. I swear by them and they can be resharpend also.

Joe

I used a saw hole type on my car to remove one quarter...I personally didn't have any issues with it, but I don't do this type of thing everyday.

Can anyone recommend any good books on doing this type of bodywork?? I might give it a shot myself on a 67 RS/SS I am starting to restore.

I've used the small hole saw type to replace about every panel on my '67... with varying success. I broke a few at the beginning until I read somewhere (on this site or another) that the key to using these type bits is to 1) center punch a substantial hole on the center of the spotweld to keep it from wobbling 2) run the drill at a slow speed and 3) lubricate the bit as you are drilling (I used WD-40... one quick spray before starting and another squirt if it is stubborn). A fourth thing that helps is "no monkey-fisting" the drill... let it do the cutting and take it slow (especially on uneven surfaces). If the surface is really uneven then you may want to hit it with a grinder to flatten it out. I have probably used about 8 bits total to remove my entire floor, both outer rockers, both full rear quarters, trunk pan, upper and lower cowl, firewall, both tulip panels, and inner/outer wheel wells on both sides. It may not be the best tool on the market but it will work with the proper technique. Good luck.

ps... I have a real appreciation for the strength of spot-welds after removing several hundred.

Bill,

I used my bit about the same way you did...I think I broke one, but it came with a few extras anyway.

After trying several of the pricey "spot weld removal bits", I ended up buying some 5/32" drill bits and a Drill Doctor. Drilling through both layers of sheet metal allows you to use the hole from the piece your keeping to be the factory spot weld location for your MIG plug-weld hole.

I bought about 6 odd size bits at the Dollar store,Ollie's,Big Lots,places like that.You can get those odd sizes for cheap.I used just about every style of spot weld cutters over the years.I never had much luck with the expensive cutters.Just my personal experience.
Stan

Well I found success with the Dewalt Pilot Point drill bit recommended by another TC member......thank you.:thumbsup: I got the panel off, now Im looking at the wheel houses and the outer rocker........:noway:

After trying several of the pricey "spot weld removal bits", I ended up buying some 5/32" drill bits and a Drill Doctor. Drilling through both layers of sheet metal allows you to use the hole from the piece your keeping to be the factory spot weld location for your MIG plug-weld hole.

On the dill bit you used, what brand was it. Where did you pick up the drill doctor? I've never heard of such a tool.

Thanks
Richey

I have used the saw types,Blair and one other brand. They all break
quick if you don't keep them straight, a little angle and all the teeth
come off. Went to harbour freight and bought 10, 3/8" drill bits for
4.97. I get about 10 to 15 welds out with each bit, then put them in
the pile. Drill doctor does work pretty good, but at 50 cents a piece
it's great. Plug welds work good for me. Good Luck!!:D

Pat,

What size bit did you end up using?

I used the 5/16 Dewalt Titanium Pilot Point. Works great!!!!