View Full Version : Paint Removal Questions


dnult
Jan 2nd, 03, 10:26 AM
I've been toiling over my firewall - removing paint and sealer. Getting ready to sand and prep for paint. I'm planning on using a wash / epoxy primer combo and topcoat. My questions are with regard to the aircraft stripper I'm using.

First off, I imagine that some of the stripper has worked it's way into the metal seams. I plan to wash it all as best I can, but wonder if any residual paint remover will give me problems. In particular I'm hoping it wont cause any sealer or paint adhesion problems. Does that stuff eventually evaporate and become inert? What can I do to minimize problems?

Secondly, the firwall if full of ripples and other nooks that make it nearly impossible to completely remove all the paint. The wash I'm using is PPG 1791. It says to minimize application over paint. Should I be concerned about adhesion over residual paint? I'd hate to see all my spot welds and other crevases pop out after I'm done.

One problem with my setup is that I can't move the car. The subframe is out and the car is up on jack stands. As a result power washing is a problem, thus my concerns about remover in the seams. I'm cleaning the metal with a bucket and a rag.

Damn I'm tired.

-dnult

emtcee1973
Jan 2nd, 03, 11:43 AM
i would try a powerwasher with some kind of soap attachment to get in all the nooks and crannies.try to seal off anywhere you don't want any water to get.good luck

Wayne
Jan 2nd, 03, 01:11 PM
I am having my doors for my 67 sodie blasted the guy here that does my powder coating has this sodie blaster, I seen a car he done does a real fine job very smooth does put a rough edge like sand blasting. Does not warp up the sheet metal like blasting can do.

bonecrusher67conv
Jan 2nd, 03, 02:17 PM
I would skip the wash primer and just use the epoxy paint, then seal the joints, epoxy prime again, then hit with two coats of underhood black lacquer. I wouldn't use the aircraft stripper on the firewall though because of those joints. If you did, I'd use a high pressure nozzle with soap and water to try and flush those joints. Use a 2" or 3" Roloc bit with scuff pad on a die grinder or high speed drill to prepare the residual paint for the epoxy. Those 2" Roloc pads will get you into some very tight areas.

[This message has been edited by bonecrusher67conv (edited 01-02-2003).]