I've got a whole gaggle of issues here guys, I wanted to know what ya'll have to say.

http://www.bsmf.com/images/nessy68/damage/wwell.jpg
right where my tub/wheel well meets the quarter, there is what appears to be the start of some nasty rust, I was thinking maybe there is some type of spray on asphault type material I could use for sound deadening as well as a moisture barrier? Or should I just be prepared to break out the welder...?

http://www.bsmf.com/images/nessy68/damage/roof.jpg
right inbetween the windshield and the roof supports, that bright red rust kind've concerns me, I was thinking I should probobly scrape off that old liner on the roof, as it has water marks on it, and god only knows if the rest of the roof is covered in that same rust. Should I go ahead and take off that liner? and if so, what the HELL do i use to replace it, or to protect the area once again? -Even scouring the resto websites, I don't see anything that would replace the liner.

http://www.bsmf.com/images/nessy68/damage/roofsail.jpg
Same goes for here, I've POR15'ed my entire floor pan, as well as the quarter window areas,now what about this? maybe prep it properly, and then spray the POR15 into it ? My fear once again is a matter of protecting the internals as well as what I can see. (Maybe time to take the mark stielow approach, dip the whole damned car)


Input is MUCH appreciated!!!

[ 06-28-2004, 11:16 AM: Message edited by: aonghus ]

I'd be more worried about the bent frame rail than that small amount of rust in the wheel well. All the other stuff looks like surface rust to me. Sand or scrape it, use POR's products to fix.

unfortnatley that frame rail was something I didn't see when I bought the car,

however, what would you suggest?

Ricks has new frame rails for $125 a pop,

but all in all shouldnt i be worried about the trunk pan being bent also?

i dunno, let me know what you think

Im probably whipping a dead horse here but after using Rustbullet, Id brush the surface to get rid of the loose rust and spray rustbullet on everything I could get to. It isnt so thick it can't penetrate into some nooks and crannies and protects at least as well as POR if not better. Definately better adhesion properties. JMO, Kevin

Depending on what your plans are for the entire car, I'd take the exterior down to bare metal. That way you'll have no doubt how far the interior rust has gone. But you might get a few surprizes you didn't want on the exterior also.

As the others have said, I'd get rid of as much of the rust as you can and then treat the metal, prime and paint it with your choice of products.

There are ways to fill in the roof\ceiling area again after ripping out that asbestos crap. Seeing those water marks on it is definitely NOT a good sign. Besides, it'll always stink inside the car if you leave it.

yea i was startin to actually like the mesothelioma smell haha redface.gif not good.


and i was planning on having the car media blasted, but as is right now, i live less than a mile from the ocean, if i do that, ( and i cant garage right now ) i will have more rust on my hands than i'd like.

so you guys would say, just spray those areas on the wheel well with POR/rustbullet ?

im fully prepared to do this properly and buy new tubs if need be, justneed the advice

How did you attach those pics like that?

Aonghus

From the picture, it's pretty hard to tell about that quarter\wheelhouse. That's going to be a tough place to fix. Tap a screwdriver at the lip of the opening (outside) right in the area and see how rigid it is. If need be, you can always zip just that small area out of the lip (zip your lip?) and weld a patch in.

As you're cleaning that rust out on the inside, use a vacuum frequently. It's help you see how far you're getting and you won't bed more gunk down in that seam either.

The frame rail won't be that difficult to fix either way.... full replacement or repairing the current one.
But you'll need to do a series of measurements of the chassis before anything. Somebody used those measurements not long ago but I can't remember where I saw them. You need dimensions like the diaginals from the shackle bushing mounts to the front spring eye bolts, or something similar.
Then between the rails, etc. You may be able to straighten, or have a shop straighten it, then weld the cracks. If the whole back end is also tweaked, not just the trunk floor, you might not get it straight. If you can, it'll be a whole lot easier than a new rail.

LedHed,

There's are a boatload of places that can host your pictures for you.
Your internet service provider should have space set aside for you to use. Give them a call or look at their web site and it should tell you what you need to do to upload pictures to that space. Then you can link to them here.

If not, try HobbyStage, CarDomain, Webshots, etc. Do a Google on 'photo hosting' and see what comes up.

Once the pictures are online, you can post links to them here, or small copies of them in your posts.... depending on the site hosting them.

hwayStarJoe, thank you a TON for the advice, I'm really hardpressed for information, i've gotta pick upt he slack and learn :D

Will do what you reccomended, sounds like a good course of action to take, At this point I am thinking, (since my car at one point was used for drag and circle track STRICTLY as a race car) it may be wiser to just replace those frame rails, for ~$250 from rickscamaros, i can stand the money. afterall, I'm 18, and i want this car when im 70. ( wishful thinking ? :eek: )


i will get some more in depth photos up tommarrow, i know the outer lip of the passenger side wheel well is a bit rusted, bubble rust, but it doesnt flake off so easy.


and also, I run my own website, www.bsmf.com (http://www.bsmf.com) ( big scottish mother *******, i compete in the games and whatnot, and I am very proud of my scottish heritage, hence my car being nicknamed nessy, -(my family is from the area around loch ness)- )

i may be able to set up an image host off of my site, but for now, just follow what joe said.


thanks a bunch again guys smile.gif

[ 06-29-2004, 05:01 AM: Message edited by: HwyStarJoe ]

Had to remove that one word Aonghus. Shame, shame!

I didn't know the car was a race car or circle track veteran. In that case, I'd go ahead and replace both frame rails. You're gonna need to do a ton of measurements around the entire chassis and body to make sure it's still straight. You've got what looks like a solid foundation.... but racing like that can take it's toll.

Aonghus,

As far as the roof liner material... I recently had my roof panel replaced so I had to track down some replacement material. I searched the archives on this site and nobody seemed to be able to find the replacement roof material. I even called a well known camaro parts supplier (which shall remain nameless) and was told there was originally no material between the headliner and roof panel.???

I found a post by a user on this site that recommended this:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/ProductDisplay/c-10101/s-10101/p-176519/mediaCode-ZX/appId-579184

I just ordered it a few days ago so I couldn't tell you how it worked out, but it seems like it would work for you.

- Colby

Aonghus, if you are looking at buying new frame rails, those ones you are looking at are only rear repair sections, not the complete rail. The only way to get a complete frame rail, is to cut up a donor car. I just did this, and it was really a PITA. But, my car is now going to be rust free. If its rust free, remove and reinstall it using a new trunk pan. Just be very careful removing it.

Joe, SORRY

I'm a scot I am genetically prone to profanity, wont happen again.

CC, I was thinking more along the lines of gortex, put in correctly gortex only allows moisture in one direction, if the metal 'breathes' at all, and lets some water through, the gortex would allow it to continue through.

definatly let me know though if that heatshield material works! would be interesting.


cruisemaster, Sounds like im going to have to go that route, ya would think somebody like chris alston's chassiworks would make the rear rails, wouldnt be that hard to CAD them out, and have a machine do the dirty work ya know?

off to find a junkyard in the SD area... lol

also, here's the roof now

http://www.bsmf.com/images/nessy68/dmg11.jpg


the little bit of rust that caused that discoloration, is just surface rust. i can rub it off with me finger.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/4x2%20frame.htm

what'yall think about that ? i was gonna call them tommarrow and see if they offer a rear frame clip for our first gens, not very clear on their website if they do
i'd much rather get new steel, than 36 year old metal-fatigued/stressed stuff in my car.

Thanks Joe, I'm huntin

Originally posted by HwyStarJoe:
LedHed,

There's are a boatload of places that can host your pictures for you.
Your internet service provider should have space set aside for you to use. Give them a call or look at their web site and it should tell you what you need to do to upload pictures to that space. Then you can link to them here.

If not, try HobbyStage, CarDomain, Webshots, etc. Do a Google on 'photo hosting' and see what comes up.

Once the pictures are online, you can post links to them here, or small copies of them in your posts.... depending on the site hosting them.

Hey aonghus,
When I first bought my car I too was worried about the rust and my shop teacher assured me by saying it took 30 some years for just that rust to form, so I wouldn't be to worried about it, yet now would be a good time to treat it. I have used POR15 before and have mixed feelings. Good over rust, but not very good over anything else unless it is preped very well. The stuff needs something with tooth (rust). I know eastwood sells a product which is like a wax material that blocks out oxygen and water from contacting the current rust. Kind of like the old trick of spraying your cars underside with oil; it creates the barrier. With the sound deadner, check out the newest issue of PHR. There is a great article by Andrew Borobin about how he sound deadnen his GTO. He talks about the material he used for the roof. All and all your rust problem does not look to serious, the quarter may be a problem, but it looks like a solid car. Good luck in your endeavors.

Patrick