installed a complete drum disc conversion including lines
after install I had about 2inches travel in the pedal and brakes released fine.
first time out with the car the fronts wont release all the way.
I can turn them with a bit of effort but they seem to be dragging now and the pedal is hard and super sensitive.
on assembly i adjusted the booster rod to 5 3/4 inches to the clevis hole.
I used the new booster to M/C rod (short)
im also wondering if the combo valve isnt releasing the fronts?
all parts are brand new (that dont mean they are good though)

sounds like you still have the 10 PSI residual valve for drum brakes on the front. disc brakes need a 2 PSI residual valve on the front. did you install a new "disc brake" master cylinder?

residual valves keep a slight amount of pressure on the brake lines so there is no slop when you press on the brake pedal.

they are usually located inside the brake line port at the master cylinder.

did you adjust pedal height according to the factory manual? you mentioned "adjusting the rod to the clevis hole" that doesn't sound right. pedal height is measured from the floor to the top of the pedal at rest.

never mind I found out the booster/master pushrod is 1/8 too long.
there is not residual valves in this system, the combo valve does all that!
the rod from the booster has an adjustment which in my case is 5 3/4 inches.
of course pedal height is pretty much dictated by pulling pedal back until it stops against the brake light switch which would give you the correct height of the pedal.

The pedal height of power brakes is much lower than manual brakes. There is a metal spacer that bolts to the upper "manual" hole in the pedal and that spacer tab contacts the brake light switch.
http://www.pozziracing.com/Media/brake_light_switch.JPG