Well here I go, swapped ft. drums to the 70's style prop valve and 69 everything else. 11" booster single piston calipers. Anyhow, I do notice the front wheels sit out at leaset 1/4 inch, as well the front end is lower even though I used stock height spindles. Bought it off e- pay so will see how helpful they are after the sale. One caliper bracket is so tweaked it doesn't even touch the caliper on the outer edge. The bolts go through and are on a slight angle, obviously needs to be replaced. The height thing ,I wonder if they sent drop spindles? Should have looked before installing but to excited about getting er done. Anybody know if stock disc also sit lower that drum spindles stock? I know they sit out a lil
Thanks Brian

Anybody know if stock disc also sit lower that drum spindles stock? I know they sit out a lil
Thanks Brian

They shouldn't. A drum spindle can be made into a disc spindle.

Thats what I thought to Joe. It does sit an inch oe so lower no dought. Its tempting to us another system. Just hard to do after buying and installing. So I will have to work w/the e-pay vendor and see if there records show the spindle part number. Drag tho

you would know if you got dropped spindles i believe the steering arm is cast right into the dropped spindles?

Well thank you blain , It must be just the spindle sicking out a 1/4 that makes it look that way. I also found the upper controll arm had been put in bacwards making the camber more positive than before now that it is in correct. The two must be deciving to my eyes. The e-pay company says the same and is replacing the bad caliper bracket. Hopfully thats all the trouble I will have. Still have to bleed and bleed and bleed.
Note: It says on the upper controll arm where the shimms go (wheel side) easy to miss and the guy before me did. Big change in alginment!

after changing my spindles my front end looked all jacked up untill i had it alighned. i didn't think by just changing the spindles would change everything that much. but it did.when i drove it down to the shop it felt like the tires were trying to roll off the rims.

Your wheels moved about a 1/2" out per side due to the hub's mounting face being farther back on the drum hub vs a two-piece hub or one-piece cast rotor/hub by the time you figure rotor hat thickness increase over the drum hat thickness.

Sit your two hubs side by side and you will see what I mean..

pdq67

Your wheels moved about a 1/2" out per side due to the hub's mounting face being farther back on the drum hub vs a two-piece hub or one-piece cast rotor/hub by the time you figure rotor hat thickness increase over the drum hat thickness.

Sit your two hubs side by side and you will see what I mean..

pdq67

It could very well be pdq, it sure seams like alot. Not bad if my springs were better. Need to address that sooner than latter.
I now understand this though ! At the same time I replace brakes I changed my gas shocks with the old oil filled. WOW what a soft ride. Great for a vert that doest have roof support. But it did lower my front end!
I now am left with this problem, If I hold my master off the booster 1/4 inch my brakes work great. If I tighten the master down to the booster a few bleeds of the rear drums and I slowly get no fluid. I asume the master is not retracting all the way back due to the push rod length. I feel that the brake pedal hits the stop just as the clevis pin attaches no free play and no preasure pushing forward on the booster. However the pin from the booster is not adjustable and is sticking out about the size of an eraser if an eraseer was that diamiter. Any one with thoughts on that one? Thanks Brian

Anybody know how much that rod from the booster to the master should be sticking out?
About flush?
I cant get fluid to the back after a few pumps from bleeding if I tighten the master all the way to the booster. Is the only adjustment the clevis or some grinding of the rod booster to master? Im not pushing on the clevis when pedal is released.

if the clevis won't adjust far enough to allow the master to fully retract, take the pushrod out from behind the master cylinder and grind it down a bit on the bench grinder.

if the clevis won't adjust far enough to allow the master to fully retract, take the pushrod out from behind the master cylinder and grind it down a bit on the bench grinder.

Thanks for you reply, have you run into kits that need some work like that?