My winter projects will include some painting. The rear spoiler is primer, the dash pod is black, and some underhood items are black where they should be blue.

When I first got the car, I brought my glovebox dooor to a paint shop, and asked them to mix me up some matching touch-up paint. I have a pint can labeled: Deltron DBU-4440V2=DIR Bimini Blue Poly universal basecoat.

I have both a full size and touch-up spray guns, and an adequate compressor.

What do I thin this paint with, and how much? Any idea how far it will stretch?

The bozo who painted my car (before I bought it) didn't clearcoat it, just buffed the base, should I clearcoat the peices I do? is yes, with what? I'm looking for improvement, perfection will have to wait til I can have the whole car painted.

Can/should I do this in my garage (with a canister mask) without doing damage to myself?

I'll try to answer your questons in order. Yes,you will need to clear the basecoat. If the person buffed it, you should re-base also.Call your local PPG paint store for the correct clear application for the DBU.You will also need a clearcoat activator. The base and the clear are both thinned with enamel reducer.As mentioned,the clear is also is mixed with an activator. Make sure to choose a reducer with the correct temperature range for your weather conditions. You can do this paint job in your garage, but base-clear is loaded with isocyanates- a very toxic poison that can be very harmful to your respiratory system and more- BAD stuff! I would recommend a fresh air supplied face mask system. Available at Autobodydepot.com for about $500. If you are doing small parts and are outside with total ventilation, a canister mask might do, but we're talking about your health here. Also, be sure to wear rubber gloves when handling the clearcoat and activator-It can enter your bloodstream through the skin. Hope this helps.

Us the link and do a search for your product. You will find all you need to know there.


http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmProductInfo.asp?Cat=12

just out of curiosity, what underhood items are black, that should be blue?

DBU, is NOT like other basecoats. It has a potlife once mixed with reducer. Once you mix the reducer in with DBU you HAVE 4hrs to spray that product before it hardens. So only mix up what you plan to spray.

DBU reduces with it OWN reducer, you CAN NOT use any other product. You must use DRR reducer it reduces in a 1:1.5 ratio, so for every one part of DBU mix in 1.5 parts of DRR.

If all he did was apply basecoat with no clear then you need to sand those parts so you get adhesion. Sand and reapply more base.

Any PPG clear can be used over DBU, personally I like 2055 clear. But if you are painting small pieces and NOT an entire car then go with DC3000 clear. Its a faster clear and will preform better in a colder shop then 2055, but DC3000 is NOT meant to be used for a complete paint job.

Plus you would only need to buy the clear and hardner with Dc3000, were 2055 you need 4 different products and all other PPG clears need 3 products mixed together.
DC3000 is slightly cheaper, easy to mix (4:1) plus its the clearest cleanest clear in the PPG line.

Thanks a bunch guys, all the answers I needed, even if I don't like(isocyanate)them all.

Do they still make laquer? lol

a previous owner masked off the engine compartment at first lip on the fenders, and spray bomped everything flat black, even the wiring!

When I said they buffed the base, I was talking THE WHOLE CAR! Don;t know this for fact, but a body guy I had look at it when I couldn't make it shiny said so...

I don't have the $$$ for the full paint job I need, yet, and I'm kinda scared what might be under that blue paint, snowball effect, ya know.

I'll read on that link, and pick up some DRR reducer, and make a few things blue that aren't right now, and be happy for this year.