I checked that #1 was at tdc on compression stroke then droped the dist. Timing mark was at 0. The wires are ran correctly (I have checked about 9 times) and the car won't start. I know this is a timing issue because after reading below I can't see spark no matter how much I turn the distributor.
This was posted by blackoutsteve...
Take the #1 plug out and plug it into the lead.
Rotate the engine to 16* BTDC on #1's compression/firing stroke and turn the ignition on. (Don't start)
Ground the plug and rotate the dizzy until you see a spark at the plug.
When you see a spark, that will be roughtly 16 degrees. (Choose whatever advance you like.)

Not sure what I am doing wrong, but I was wondering should I rotate the wires over one terminal on the distributor? If so which way do I move them? I think that I had the timing off so bad one time that the pistons were hitting the valves. Atleast it sounded like it.

Darren - Have you pulled a plug to confirm that your ignition is working? Did you pull the valve cover to confirm TDC on compression?

Steve

First make sure that both valves on #1 are closed so you know you're on the compression stroke. Turn the crank a little to line up with your preferred base timing (10*, 12*, etc.). Put a test light across the points. Turn the distributor slowly clockwise (as viewed from the top) until the light goes on, then turn it slowly counter-clockwise until the light JUST goes out (firing position) and snug the distributor clamp. You'll be within 1* of your desired timing when you put a timing light on it - works every time. Don't re-index the wires in the cap - that's a Bubba fix. If the distributor is installed properly and the wires are correctly indexed in the cap, it'll look like this:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-2/13522/dist2.jpg

:beers:

First make sure that both valves on #1 are closed so you know you're on the compression stroke. Turn the crank a little to line up with your preferred base timing (10*, 12*, etc.). Put a test light across the points. Turn the distributor slowly clockwise (as viewed from the top) until the light goes on, then turn it slowly counter-clockwise until the light JUST goes out (firing position) and snug the distributor clamp. You'll be within 1* of your desired timing when you put a timing light on it - works every time. Don't re-index the wires in the cap - that's a Bubba fix. If the distributor is installed properly and the wires are correctly indexed in the cap, it'll look like this:

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-2/13522/dist2.jpg

:beers:
#1 should be at 5 o/clock..not 7 o/clock.

#1 should be at 5 o/clock..not 7 o/clock.


:noway: :noway: :noway:

Stick with JohnZ.:thumbsup:

Also, No matter how bad you hose up the timing by rotating the distributor it won't make the valves hit the pistons. If the valves did hit the pistons then you didn't have enough piston to valve clearance.

sounds more like a power issue than a timing issue...and ps, i`m with fatblock on the #1 location, but thats just a preference thing anyway...can you get spark from a plug at all???put a spare plug on any wire, and rest it against the exh manifold...turn the car over, and watch for spark...if no spark, all the timing in the world wont make it run...lol...

I have mine set-up so that #1 is at 7 o clock. I will switch that and try again. Steve, I put a paper towel in the #1 hole and bumped it until the towel flew out. I am assuming that means compression stroke. Then brought it up to TDC. I have not tried to pull a plug and ground it, but the car ran for a few minutes a few weeks ago, so I think the ignition system is working. I just think the timing is off. I am going to switch the wires tomorow and try again. When the car did run, I had to turn the distributor as far as I could until the vac can was hitting the intake.
I am very relieved to read that timing off can't make my valves hit the pistons. I guess with the timing off so bad I was hearing something else. Thanks for the advise guys. Hopefully tomorrow I will be on here saying the car is running great.
Darren

One more question. Where would I hook up a test light with HEI, as JohnZ described?

Just get the distributor close to #1 and then advance it a bit more. No need to have it at exactly 16 degrees or whatever. Get the timing perfect later.

There have been plenty of times in my life where I thought a new engine wouldn't start but then twisted the distributor to give it more advance and she fired right off.

For initial starting just make sure there is plenty of advance.

The towel in the plug hole dont work!!! I allways remove the valve cover rotate the engine until i see the #1 intake close then i bring it up to 0 and drop the dist in there.then static time as Johnz said,,, Frank

The pic JohnZ posted is (of course) "correct"

The cl.ocking of the wires on the cap really doesn't matter. What does matter is that as #1 piston is coming up to TDC on the compression stroke, the rotor in the distributor is coming around to the tower that the #1 spark plug wire is connected to.

To attach a "firing light" to an HEI, connect it to the tach terminal.

The ignition fires when the trigger circuit "breaks." if you have the cap off and you are looking at it, that is when the points open, or when the magnetic or optical trigger goes PAST the sensor.

I generally find it very easy to preset the timing as close as I can het it, then have someone else turn the key while I rotate the distributor, advancing (pulling the vac can toward the carb) the timing until the engine fires, and continueing to advance the timing until she smooths out and sounds good.

"Accurate" and "correct" timing really isn't required at this point. If the motor wants 50 degrees to start and idle, give it to her. Once you're at the point where the cam breakin is done, and the engine will start and idle everytime you touch the key, then it's time to do real tuning.