Installing the Hotchkis rear springs. My springs were delivered with the extra plate bolted to the bottom of the spring - apparently to be used as "filler" if you have multi leaf perches. The Hotchkis instructions are rather poor in my opinion - they dont address this extra plate, nor do they really address the multi leaf in a mono leaf perch isssue. Anyway, initially installed the springs with the supplied poly pads above and below the springs. There was a lot of squishing and stuff going on, and a huge gap between theperch and the shock plate. I didn't like that idea. Removed the lower pad, and it was better, but still a prettygood sized gap. Searched this site and discovered I could get rid of the extra filler plate. Then I got to thinking.....and this is what I came up with.

I removed the bolt that holds the springs together, and cut off the top peg. Then I welded what was left of the bolt to that filler plate, and installed that plate on TOP of the spring, and cranked the bolt back down. Bolted everything back together, and am happy with the result. A very small gap - I don't see the need to use spacers. The mono shock plate is VERY sturdy and is not bending. No pads used top or bottom.

Oh - decided not to use the Hotchkis U-bolts. Those things are massive and I didn't feel like drilling all of the holes. Used a stock U-bolt on the outside at each end and grade 8 7/16" bolts in place of where the factory would have used T-bolts.

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Having that filler plate on top of the spring will lower the car the thickness of the plate (1/4"). If I need that 1/4" back, I'll remove the plate and weld a bolt to the top leaf.

You get beter control with no pads. I'd use 4 U bolts just for insurance. The spring pads have been known to tear off the axle housing. This happens mainly if you have traction bars on there, but stiff leaf springs add some stress. The first sign is an oil leak in the weld area.
I made up a plate that just drops in on top of the leaf, it has a hole in the center, is longer than the spring perch, with a piece of rod welded to each end on top to capture it. Shaped like this: O_______O

David

You get beter control with no pads. I'd use 4 U bolts just for insurance. The spring pads have been known to tear off the axle housing. This happens mainly if you have traction bars on there, but stiff leaf springs add some stress. The first sign is an oil leak in the weld area.

David

David (and others), I am bolting in my new 9" today with Hotchkis TVS kit springs (I will add the rear stabilizer when I know I have time).

You mention above that you get better control with no pads, which I am looking for. BUT - you also mention that "stiff leaf springs add some stress." Does this mean pads are better in there, or leave them out? Because of the way the leaf spring plates are on the new rear end, I would rather leave them out. I am probaby gaining (losing) a little height, because they do not sit flush on the axle housing like stock.

Oh, and the pads on my high hp '55 Chevy where wasted when I changed the leaf springs (and the weren't in there THAT long).

I'd leave the pads out. The more I see of pads, even poly pads, the less I like them in there. They do allow the rear axle to rock front to rear when power or brakes are applied.

Here are the spacer plates I made, you won't need them if you have Ford type mounts. These are 3/16" thick and the spring bolt head was ground down to fit it. If you have to use the aluminum angle wedges to correct pinion angle, you may not need a plate on top of the spring.
BUT in that case make sure the bottom of the center bolt is in good contact with the lower shock plate, that is all that is holding the rear centered.
David

Nice plates David. Wish I knew how to weld. I'll be taking a class this fall.

I had the mono perches replaced with multi's because without a locator pin in the upper side of the perch my rear end walked. I used no pad in the top, had the locator hole in the perch welded and drilled to fit the locator pin. Then used 2 plates and the lower pad. This also gave me about 3/16" - 1/4" less drop.

Al - depending on how much torque you put to the rear you may end up having the rear shift like I did. If the locater pin comes through the shock plate you may not have that problem. With the lower pad mine didn't...
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I've changed a thing or two since I posted this. I added an an additional u-bolt at each end - now have all u-bolts (stock size - not those Hotchkis behemoths). I also added spacers between the spring perch and the shock plate. I used 3/4" square tubing with holes drilled for the u-bolts. I like David's idea for the top spacer plate better than mine. Some day, I'll make a set of those and weld them to the spring perches. Then I'll have a solid locator above and below the spring just like the big boys. I could just weld mine in, but David's idea makes rear end removal a little easier.

I think I'll also get a set of multileaf shock plates. Mine is a little limited in the "droop" department with the mono plates, although I've not noticed any problems.

BPOS
The multi leaf perches MUST be used with multi leaf plates or your shocks will surely be too short. Or use the threaded extensions for the top of the shock.
David