BGH and or anyone else

- ok been about 2 years since I bought these parts from you (camaro time scale!!). Anyhow the backlash is .008 to about .009 in depending on where I check it. The Richmond spec. calls for .008 so I think it's close. Could you comment on the contact pattern and tell me your opinion.

Also, a couple of questions about getting the pattern. I think I did it wrong. I greased the drive and coast sides all at once and then rolled the ring through the pinion in one direction to get the drive contact (using an axle) and then back in the opposite direction to get the coast side pattern.


IMG_0546.jpg (http://www.camaros.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3240&stc=1&d=1179205477)

IMG_0548.jpg (http://www.camaros.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=3241&stc=1&d=1179205477)

Thanks - John (aka beeskerdog)

Looks ok to me.

Whats back lash set at ?

Doug,

The backlash varies a little bit depending on where you check it. typically about .008 up to about .009.

The pinion (by itself) reads about 20 in-lbf. With the carrier in, this increases to about 30 in-lbf. The pinion seal and crush sleeve are not in at this point.

John

Those look good. You might want to check it all the way around. At least, that's what I did.

Looks pretty good to me too. Here is a tip on how to make the pattern look a little better. Run a line of oil around the ring gear so that it will mix in with the marking compound as you turn the gears. Use an axle to turn everything so that you can turn it smoother. This will make the edges of the pattern more defined and easier to read. I think you have it set real close right now. I doubt that you will get it any better.

Thanks for the comments -

So what remains is to put in the crush sleeve and seal. How do I determine when I have the right amount of crush. I need to use a new sleeve, right? It looks to me that the sleeve can be slipped in with out pulling the differential - is that right as well?

I really appreciate the help - thanks again

You must remove the differential and pull the pinion out to install the crush spacer. Tighten the nut until you have 19 to 22 inch pounds of preload on the pinion bearings. This will require around 300 foot pounds of torque on the nut to crush the spacer to this point. The differential must be out to measure the bearing preload.

Am I reading you correctly, 300 foot pounds of torque? My Craftsman 1/2" Torque Wrench will only go up to 150 ft lbs!

ahh after checking the net is it 300! Guess I'll need a new torque wrench that can do 300 ft lbs. Craftsman doesn't offer one, might have to get a 3/4" DR. MICRO ADJUSTABLE TORQUE WRENCH 50-300 Ft/lb on Ebay for $40, probably not too reliable haha

You'll need about that much torque to crush the sleeve but you don't actually measure the torque. Once the sleeve begins to crush it is much easier. You measure the resistance of turning the pinion in inch pounds as the nut is tightened.

That is correct, you don't need a torque wrench for this, just a big breaker bar and a cheater. Tighten the nut until the preload is right on the bearings, don't worry about how much torque is on the nut.