I have a 69 w/ factory AC (which I just acquired)..and the heater fan/blower/AC will not kick on at all. The guy I bought it from said it was a bad switch....I'm just not sure which switch is bad....I have no idea even where to begin...Is there any easy wasy to tell or to track what switch is bad??

Looks like I have the basic switches available from Ricks:

SW-22 69 With AC control blower switch
SW-23 69 With AC fan speed switch

Should I just order both and be done with it.....or could it be something completely different?

Any help would be REALLY appreciated!

Thanks, Dan

There are 2 switches involved in it. One in the slider panel on the dash, when you slide it to A/C it activates the compressor. The fan switch on top horizontally, has 4 positions and those are the fan speeds. When it goes to far right, it sends full 12v to the blower thru the wiring on the suitcase under the hood, thru the relay there. Check connections, fuses first of course.
Taking the dash panel out to replace either of those 2 switches is a bear but doable. Mine had the slider switch gone bad. If you need to pull that dash panel, then its time to replace both so you dont have to pull it again later, just my 2 cents. The AIM Assembly Instruction Manual has good detail drawings of all of the wiring and switch locations in it. :)

What I'd do is get a schematic and use a volt meter to check voltage at various places in the circuit. You'll find out very quick where you should be getting power but aren't and visa versa. Just trace the lines with a colored pencil or highlighter and check check check. I hate the throw parts at something to find what's not wrong. Hopefully the switches aren't too terribly expensive. Switches do wear out and it's good to fix all potential bad connections if you do any at all. Bad connections reveal the weakest link in the chain. When you fix one bad link, the next weekest in line goes, etc. This is especially true for high current loads like lights, fuel pumps, blow motors...

Will I really need to pull the entire dash panel in order to replace those switches....It appears for sure that the lower switch (blower) could be replaced from just under the dash....

Now the upper switch looks pretty impossible to get to without at least pulling the entire "control"...and that probably requires the removal of the dash panel...Huh??

I did replace the fuse....so thats not it...

I'll do some voltage checks tomorrrow...and see what I find, before I go throwing money at it....

The car is all original and is clean as a whistle under the dash...It's also never been apart and I really didn't want to go and pull that dash panel....but I live in AZ and I'm gonna need that AC real soon....so I may have to bite the bullet!

Thanks,
Dan

Double check everything before just replacing the switches. It could be a bad blower motor, relay, resistor, connection, etc. Like Dnult said, get a schematic and test light and trace the circuit to verify what part is bad before pulling it all apart to change the switch. Ask How I know...:D

TTFN
Mat

the top switch that slides side to side is the blower switch or fan switch. The smaller switch thats up inside the sliders activates the compressor. That panel does come out with a few screws removed, you wont need to tear the dash apart, but the cables and wires always seem to get caught or snagged so take your time if you need to pull it. The switches are in most parts houses. Not that pricey either. :)

It has been awhile but I thought I would post this for future reference.

I finally figured out what the culprit was.....It was indeed the "control blower switch w/AC" ...Rick's part # SW-22....

To replace this switch I did not have to remove the dash carrier or any other stuff for that matter. Just two small screws hold it in.

I found the problem by simply unplugging the switch and jumping it (Bypass).....It instantly kicked the blower/compressor on...and I had all systems go.....Now I just gotta charge the system w/ some R-12 and I'll be good to go.

Thanks for everyones help!

Dan

BTW, here is a pic of the switch....I took the old one apart just to see what it looked like and there was two little pins that were corroded out.

http://www.rickscamaros.com/images/rfg/SW-22.jpg

Thanks for the follow up Dan. I saw one of my replies and thought "I don't remember writing that". Then I noticed it was originally posted in late may. These Camaro projects tend to drag on sometimes. Take care. :beers:

One more update as long as I'm here.....That repop switch is JUNK...(just like most all the other repop crap)...The little plunger was all loose inside the body of the switch and it kept triggering the compressor on and off without touching anything....I needed to hold the switch with my finger in a precise position in order to keep the compressor running....

Solution.....Well, since I still had my original switch (which was already apart)...I decided to try and clean up the "Pins" & small copper plate w/some fine sandpaper and then carefully re-assemble....and what do you know....It worked perfect.......I now have Ice Cold Air:thumbsup:

Now I just gotta send back tha POS to Rick's and hopefully get a full refund. I am also going to try and find a NOS switch just to have as a backup...just in case my rebuild fails!

Dan