I'm about a month away from heading off to the Naval Academy. There's a guy down the street who has a manual 89 RS (:D ), which he's willing to sell for $1100. Apparently, the "ignition got burnt up" in the car and they replaced it. From what I understand, they replaced the cylinder and the coils. Now the car won't start. Would I be correct to assume this is because of the PASS key system? What should I look at? Or do? As for me buying it, the body of the car looks pretty good from what I can see. I haven't had a good chance to look at the car, yet, but I plan on doing so tomorrow (today?). What are some main problems/things that I should look for so as to determine whether or not I want the car? I've wanted one of these for quite a while, but they're a little difficult to come by in decent shape here. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks! :cool:

I had the Dealer cut an extra key when I purchased a new GM Vehicle with the PASS Key. There is a sequence to follow before using a new key with the computer chip that should be listed in the Owner's Manual. If it is not followed, you will disable your ignition system and the car will not start. I would call your Local Dealer for additional info.

The passkey system in an 89 f is simple to check but it does require an ohm meter. If you take the lower closeout panel down from under the dash and steering column you will see an orange wire sleeve that has 2-white wires inside of it, it is the only one under there and is easy to see. Disconnect the connector, put the key in the ignition, put your ohm meter leads on each of the pins leading up the column, watch the reading as you turn the key to start, you should always have a resistance value, if it goes to OL or doesn't read a value then the wires to the lock cylinder are broken at the cylinder. That requires a new cylinder and a key cut with the proper chip number. If the theft deterent is engaged on those then all the lights and such will work but the starter will not engage. The proceeder that was listed by the other guy is for a later modle passkey 3 system, yours is passkey 2.

I'm about a month away from heading off to the Naval Academy. There's a guy down the street who has a manual 89 RS (:D ), which he's willing to sell for $1100. Apparently, the "ignition got burnt up" in the car and they replaced it. From what I understand, they replaced the cylinder and the coils. Now the car won't start. Would I be correct to assume this is because of the PASS key system? What should I look at?

If the Pass key (It is called VATS) is keeping the car from cranking, the security light should be on. If the light is not on, or the car is cranking but not starting, it is probably another issue.

Oh ok. Thanks! That should really help. They are about clueless in the issue. I was told by my fiancee who went to talk to the guy while I was off that they'd taken it to a GM dealer who tried straight-wiring, among other things, the ignition, but couldnt get it to work. I don't know. I'll go talk to the guy today. Thanks everyone for your help!

Yes, this will happen, check the chip on the key.

Ah ok. That makes sense. Will do! Is there any way to tell what the resistance value on the key would be? Is it on the key?

If it has the origional key you can ohm across the resistor. That will tell the chip in the key

oh...ok thanks. Well, I talked to the guy today. Turns out, I lied. It's a 92 RS. He did say that they could get it to work by straight wiring it, but it sounds like a little more trouble than it's worth. He ran a toggle switch up near the ignition for that. I think I'd rather prefer to bypass the VATS system than go through all that. Can anyone here tell me how to do this? PMs are welcome. Thanks again!

oh...ok thanks. Well, I talked to the guy today. Turns out, I lied. It's a 92 RS. He did say that they could get it to work by straight wiring it, but it sounds like a little more trouble than it's worth. He ran a toggle switch up near the ignition for that. I think I'd rather prefer to bypass the VATS system than go through all that. Can anyone here tell me how to do this? PMs are welcome. Thanks again!

The VATS system controls more than just the ignition. If they "straight wired" the ignition to get it to run, they probably did the same thing to the fuel pump. Most likely the whole car has been hokey wired. Unless your getting this car for a song, I would pass. To bypass the VATS see here

http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm

The VATS system controls more than just the ignition. If they "straight wired" the ignition to get it to run, they probably did the same thing to the fuel pump. Most likely the whole car has been hokey wired. Unless your getting this car for a song, I would pass. To bypass the VATS see here

http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm


Well I looked at it today. They have 2 wires running from a toggle switch by the steering wheel. One goes to the battery and I'm not sure where the other one is. If you're standing in front of the car looking at the engine, is going past the EGR valve. That's all the funky wiring I see. Oh, and thanks for the link!

Wow Rob, the Naval Academy! That's your KEY for the rest of your life! Too cool!

Wow Rob, the Naval Academy! That's your KEY for the rest of your life! Too cool!

:D :D :D So I understand! I'm still in disbelief that I got it. Thanks. I leave on the 26th of this month.


Oh and by the way, in the way of that link about the VATS bypass, I'm having a little bit of difficulty in understanding where to test the resistance. Also, what does it mean when it says insert the resistor in the CIRCUIT side of the connector? How do I tell which side it is? Help?

You test the resistance across the chip in the original key (the one from the burned up ignition switch not the new one) place one lead of the ohm meter on either side of the chip on the key. Circuit side of the connector is the connector half attached to the wires under the dash, as opposed to the connector with the wires going up the steering column to the ignition switch.

oh ok. thanks a lot! As soon as I get a chance to try this, I will. And I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks for everyone's help!

Okay. I got a good look at the car today. Turns out, they replaced the ignition cylinder, but the morons got a key made for the cylinder that didn't have a resistance chip in it. Just a plain key! Can someone tell me what sets the resistance value that is needed to crank the car? Is it the computer? Does installing a new ignition cylinder change the needed value or does the resistance value on the old key work? I've included a picture of the old cylinder.

http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z315/Wolf_2131/IgnitCylinder.jpg

Where that link above says to test the resistance on the "circuit" side of the connector, is it talking about the piece that the orange connector connects to? The one that it connects to in the car? Eh. This is a little confusing.

Read these:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53901&highlight=VATS

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42396&highlight=VATS

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62353&highlight=VATS

Resistance is specific to the module installed in the car if you replace the lock cylinder, you need to have a new key cut that matches the new cylinder, but has the same resistor that the old key had. The key resistance must match what the VATS control module is looking for. If the old key is gone, you have to go thru each of the 15 possible resistors to find the right one. Or you can take it to the dealer, they can determine which resistor is needed, but it will cost you.

ah... Thanks a lot! This is what I needed! Thanks for the help everyone!

does your old key have a little black chip in the base close to the square part???that is the resistor you are looking for...read across the 2 sides of it for the required resistance, or read across the terminals at the tumbler side of the orange wire connector for the resistance value...you can go to radio shack and get a resistor of the same value, and plug it into the vehicle side of the orange wire harness to bypass vats...you can also have a custom prom burnt to eliminate vats from it...

yeah. I got that. Thanks. Lol. I looked at the car again a few days ago. It has 302k miles on it. I also heard that there is WAY more wrong with that car than they are telling me. Heh. Don't think so. I'm looking at a rice burner now. :D Thanks for all the help guys!

Never mind. I lied. I'm sticking with the 93 camaro that I'm driving now. :P

Where is the MODULE for the passkey on a 89 RS. I think this is the problem why mine wont start all the time.