Hi everyone. I have a 68-327-210 with a pertronics ign. The resister wire was left on as per instruction. I have had the unit in for about a year and it runs fine but the resister wire gets super hot to the touch. A check at the coil shows 7.2 volts to this wire. Do you think this Hot wire condition is normal?? Thanks

Your gonna screw up that Pertronix. It needs a full 12 Volts. Read the instructions provided from them. Read this thread and any other thread in here regarding Pertronix. You'll come up with the same answer....you need 12 V.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=106887&highlight=resistance

john

The resistance wire will get hot. It shouldn't get so hot as to melt the insulation, but it will get pretty warm. As for the pertronix hookup, it's worth checking into what parkbrau is saying. There are at least three major configurations for hooking up various ignition systems and the differences can be subtle.

Thanks parkbrau & Dnult. I guess what stumped me was the instructions saying
NOTE: A resister wire or ballast resister may or may not be included in the original equipment. They are not to be changed in any way with the installation of the Igniter system.
When I get a minute I will eliminate the resister wire and give it a shot with I guess 14 gauge wire.

Thanks again.

I just ran into the same thing on my ’72 bronco. I was having problems with the ignition switch so I used my meter to trace the voltage and current.

Here is what I learned about stock ignition systems (correct me if I’m wrong):
- The ignition switch provides 12 volts to the start of the resister wire.
- The resistor wire drops the voltage to the coil (drops it to somewhere between 6 and 9 volts).
- The coil and the resistance wire have a very low resistance to ground (about 1.4 ohms).

I measured about 6 amps across the coil. 6 amps! That’s a lot of juice. That’s why the wire gets hot and that is why it is encased in thick insulation (and maybe even heat shrink tubing.)

This may not apply to your system, but I thought it might help.

Again thanks
Rewired the hot wire to a spade on the fuse box that is only hot when the ignition is in on position. Now full 12 volt to coil. 50 mile test ride tonight (do I like my convertible on nights like this) NO PROBLEMS

Keep the resistor wire connected to the coil so it gets 8-9V. Wire the module to full 12V.

Keep the resistor wire connected to the coil so it gets 8-9V. Wire the module to full 12V.

This is what I've seen in the pertrnix instructions that i've read, but...

As long as the coil is not getting hot, leave it on 12 volts, that alone will nearly double the spark energy.

That resister wire or balast had one and only one purpose, and that was to reduce coil primary current so breaker points lasted longer. No points, no resister needed.

Kinda wondering about the resistance measurements posted above. A stock coil should be 3 ohms, and a high performance coil 1 and a half. The resister wire or ballast would add another 2-3 ohms.

Jim, thanks for the clarification. My measurements were on my Bronco--a little different than on the Camaro.

I've seen other electronic ignition systems that need a full 12volts to operate, but use a ballast wire or resistor to the coil. Jim is right about everything he said. However the solid state control device has limits on it's Operation as well. Too little resistance in the load and the peak current spikes can damage the control device (even though they aren't mechanical points).

I'd follow your instructions. If the instructions say you need a ballast resistor in series with the coil, I'd get a different ignition controller that does use 12 volts, and has internal damping to handle the 12 volt supply the coil.