I am currently restoring an all original X66 (with the exception of a new hood) with #'s matching 396-375hp, M22 rock crusher, 12 bolt, 4 wheel disc option. It is a frost green code with custom black interior. This will be a frame on but as close to show condition as possible doing it that way. Ebay leaves me clueless. I see clones with bad tags go for 45k, a real one went for 37k a while back, and there is one on there now that was a frame off that is up to 57k with 3 days left. I will not have mine done for four months but just trying to get an idea of what they are really worth. I know the drivetrain and tag help a lot. I have no other documentation on the car.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks team camaro!

You have the almighty X, THAT will make a difference. Take it from me, the original drivetrain doesn't matter nearly as much as a pop, window sticker, invoice,etc... It seems people would rather have fake docs than the born with drivetrain!:confused:
I understand your confusion as to values right now, you see hulks bringing 10-15k and nice complete driveables can't get 25-35k. :confused:
Oh, yeah... put a cross ram on it, that's a never came on it option worth it's weight in gold!:thumbsup:
How about a pic of it and the tag?

Jeff-
I am picking the car up this Sunday and will add some pics of the tag and car as soon as I get it home. I have six other camaros that I am restoring (1 X11 base car that will be on the site in a week as an SS clone-yes clone... I keep seeing X11 cars with drum brakes and 10 bolts represented as true SS cars...makes me want to throw up when I see the bids at 25k plus on Ebay for them, 2 X11 RS/SS both all original, 2 70.5 Z-28's both all original with LT-1's and M21's, and a 68 RS bucket that I have had in the back of the shop for about a year now dreading the beginning of replacing everything but the roof) but I am pumped to have found a true X66 car with all original drivetrain. I have learned a lot on this site, repro tags and such, and this car is legit! It will be at the body shop for about 90 days so I will be dreaming about it the entire time it is gone. I am hoping by selling the other six I will be able to afford to keep this one.
Thanks for the response!

good luck with your resto. it is my feeling if you do a complete body on, and the car is nice and straight with all gm metal, super paint and all of the parts are also matching numbers ie: heads, carb, distributor, etc.. etc... with loads of attention paid to detail of how the car looked from the factory your car would be worth any where from $60 to $85000 even with out docs. good luck

Thanks for the reply. From what I have seen...I was thinking hopefully somewhere around 65k. And, the motor, ect, are all correctly numbered...vin# still intact on block and tranny.

Thanks again.

The carb is the only thing that is not original though. I know I could probably find a correct date coded carb....would it be worth the extra $$$ to do so?

I don't think the correct carb would add anything to the value. That's kind of thing the purchaser says, "No problem, I can find the right one and stick it on."

Can't say that about the incorrect motor!!!

Thanks unreal. Everything else is fine I am just searching for the carb. There is one on ebay with the correct date code I am watching. Otherwise I will just settle for any 4346 so atleast it is correct regardless of the date.

Saw the exact carb, new, a few years ago in the Classic Camaro catalog. Mid $600.00. Hang on, I'll check.
Well, it's not exact. No divorced choke. Electric now. But the price is $249.95. Model #80508. It's only rated at 750 CFM, not 780, but it's close. Hmm, it's in my 06 catalog. Price is probably double now.

Thanks Fred-

I found two originals on ebay. One is the correct date code the other is not. I am bidding on both and whichever goes my way is what I am going with. If I don't get the one stamped in September, I just won't be able to list the carb as original to the motor...I guess its not that big of deal according to everyone else when everything else is completely original.

Thanks again guys for all the help and input!

can i stick in my 2 cents? think about it with a high dollar car aren't you better off with the right dated carb. you have a matching number L-78 car,does it matter if you spend another couple of hundred dollars to have the right carb? I dont think so. get the right parts you will never regret it.

I agree. I bit the bullet and paid for a correctly dated carb. Man, that was a killer on the pocket book but now all is complete and correct.

Thanks guys!

I agree. I bit the bullet and paid for a correctly dated carb. Man, that was a killer on the pocket book but now all is complete and correct.

Thanks guys!

You did good. A car that close to numbers correct deserves that carb.

Doug

I thought the question was whether having the correct carb would add to the value, not whether it was the right thing to do.

Anyone who has the original engine, and plans to keep it/show it will want the correct carb for sure. Since he wanted to know if it made it more valuable, I assumed (maybe a bad idea) that he was looking to sell. It'll cost $600-800 and a gallant search to get the correct carb and have it restored. and I don't think he'll get his money back.

Show of hands....How many would walk away from an original L-78/M22 because of an incorrect carb? I'd be so excited about the opportunity to own such a car, that I probably wouldn't check to see if it had the correct timing cover ($ 100-150 item) I'd check for the correct alternator, distributor, etc, but probably would not drop my offer unless there were lots of high dollar items that were incorrect....and then just by $1000 or so.....but that's just me......I'm the guy that walked from an L78 Pacer with original M22 and NOM, because the motor was dated 2 months after the car. I tired to get the guy to come off $200 and he refused, so I walked. I wish I was a contortionist so I could kick myself in the A$$.

At this point I don't know if I will keep or sell it. I just stumbled onto it and it is worth a lot more than anything else I have ever had or would dream of having.
As far as the carb...I figured either way was fine but I like things perfect. It was the one piece missing and now its not. I know if I do sell it with the price tag it will have people will look at every little thing so I just wanted to cover my tail.

Thanks for all the help guys. I looked at it both ways and decided to spend a couple hundred extra bucks to make it correct. I pick the car up this weekend and will have some pics of the car before restoration on here soon.

The right dated carb will add an easy $800-1500 value to the car. Most people wouldn't walk away from a #'s matching L78 but the wrong carb will make a difference in the purchase price. Do you know if the 4 wheel disc brakes are original to the car or added later? Does it have the single piston front calipers or the 67-68 style piston? If the rear is original and dated correctly then it will add a lot of value to the car. But even the service package rear will add value as well.

dont worry about a thing, you made the right move. it was the only thing needed to complete an all matching L78. actually there was nothing even to think or talk about. good job

The rear is original and dated correctly. I don't know about the brakes. I will have to check them this weekend.

What's the code and date on the rear? If the car is an original JL8 4 wheel disc brake L78 car then it would be worth some solid money. Obviously documentation would add a ton as proof as well. What is the date/info from the trim tag? The JL8 option was only available for a certain time frame.

I will post all the info for you guys to decifer after this weekend. The car is a late September built car.

Curious to get it home and go through every number. Everything given to me so far matches up just right. I pick the car up Sunday so by Monday I will have all the numbers and some pics up so you guys can keep helping me.

Thanks!!!

Being built in Sep means it was definitely not a factory 4 wheel disc brake car. Someone probably converted the rear from drum to disc with a kit.

Question (not to hijack): what is the timing cover difference for an L78 and does it apply to all years (67-69)? Thanks.

Thanks for the brake info. That is nice to know they were added.