I have a 69 without original motor. It had a Nova console gauge package in it when purchased. Only the oil pressure and temp gauge were hooked up. I replaced the original gas gauge with a tach and put in a new autometer gauge package. I believe that everything was working at that time, but questionrd the fuel gauge accuracy as it read a little high with a full tank of gas. After parking the car for the winter the fuel gauge was at a little past full and never really moved. I did the tests for the gauge and everything seemed to be OK. I ran a test on the sender and it read over 300 ohms. I checked the ground wire from the sender and cleaned it up and it tested OK. I checked the sender and found it was a two line sender with the 1/4 line capped off. I thinking I need a new sender and I guess my question is two fold, first, does everyone think this sounds like my sender is shot, second, which sender do I need to put back in?

The sender should read 90 ohms from the body to the terminal with the float all the way up, and zero ohms with the float hanging.

You would want a stock type sender for a q-jet 350, it should have the small return line as well as the 3/8" feed.

If you're not using the return (it would normally connect to the fuel filter canister in the front of the engine) you can use a 68 327 sender, it's 3/8" with no return.

Note that the sender you described is correct for your car.

Some previous owner has changed the fuel lines to a single line. I need to see what they have actually done underneath the car, that is, see if the lines are still present or not. I was checking the ground under the tank when I discovered the two lines with the smaller one capped off. Also when I checked the ohms on the sender it does vary each time I check it. Some times around 200 and other times at around 314. With the connector partially still connected it reads around 59 ohms, which is where I'm guessing it should be after running some gas out of the tank. I'm not sure I have good connections when I've checked the sender but all appearances are that the sender is not functioning properly. I've searched this to death for about a week and have done every test that is mentioned. I'm thinking that after replacing the new gauge package that upon connecting the harness for the gauges, that the battery was not dis-connected and that may have caused a problem with the sender. Does this seem possible, or do you think I may have a grounding problem with the gauge somewhere?

when you're reading ohms, the item you are testing needs to be isolated, that is, disconnected, so your readings (200-300 ohms) ain't good.

It's possible the sender is different to match the old nove gauge, but I'm pretty sure all chevy's of that vintage used the same 90 ohm sender.

A basic test of the guage itself is to disconnect the sender in the trunk, guage should read way past full, ground the tan wire on the harness connector, gauge should read empty. If that happen s odds are reall good that your gauge and all the wiring to the trunk is good.

Make sure the gauges ground connection is good, that's up under, just in front of the tank, to the pass side tank support rail.

A few things that can happen underneath, but you won't see that until the tank is out.

If you're in a hurry, order up a sender, the sender wire, ground wire, and tank mounting hardware if yours is wasted, then pull the tank and shotgun it.

If you have time, pull the tank first and see what's what.

All the parts are only about a hundred tho.

Thanks for the help. I removed the ground near the front of the tank, cleaned it up and put a star washer on it. The gauge tested OK with all the tests so I guess that it most likely is the sender. Just seems funny that it has worked all these years and then I change the gauges over and the sender ends up being the problem. I guess that's the way it is with these Classics. They just keep you guessing. :yes: