Hey, I have a 94 Camaro with the 3.4v6 and automatic. I bought it last Friday from a police auction. It was a confiscated car and came with no keys. It also had sat for over 1 1/2 years. The steering lock cylinder had to be removed to get the car to move and to get it out of park. I got the car home and the engine turns over but is not getting fuel. If I spray starting fluid it will run for a few seconds. I checked the relay and fuse and they are good. I checked the pressure and get nothing. Is there any thing else I can do before pulling the tank and putting in a new pump?
Thanks,
Mike

Cant complain too much the car was only $487 after tax and fees.

Mike, don't rip it apart yet. Do a search for "VATS BYPASS", Both on this site and also Google. You will find what you want to know. It is a cheap simple fix to get your car going.... Jb

Hey, Already made the resistor kits and still no pump pressure. Will the fuel pump (http://www.camaroforums.com/m_90760/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#) still kick on for a few seconds when you turn the key to the ON position before starting even if the vats / passkey is wrong? I tried the resistor jumpers but the fuel pump will not build any pressure at any time. I checked the fuses and relay and they are ok.
Thanks,
Mike

If you are getting fuel pump for a few seconds, then VATS is satisfied, otherwise, starter would not turn over.

If you remove the fuel pump relay and use a #12 AWG jumper across the two heavy wires for f/p power, this will turn on f/p so you can measure/troubleshoot pump circuit. There is another connector at the tank.

If car has sat for 1.5 years, it could mean the pump is gummed up, especially if less then 1/4 tank of fuel when received. Repalcement is the only fix.

vats cuts fuel only, i believe...find the fuel pump relay under the hood, remove it from its harness, and jump out the 2 large wires in the plug...see if you get pressure...if not, expose the wires going to the top of the fuel tank...look for a bad ground, backprobe the power wire to look for power when the key is on...if no power, there is a wiring problem, not a pump problem...hope this helps...ps, you can take the vin to a chev dealer, and get the correct resistor chip for your vin, and then replace the tumbler to make the corrected repair...or at least test that chips resistance to make a proper vats bypass...

Mike,

To expand a little on what Everett said.

When you turn on the ignition key... IF the Body Control Module (BCM) senses the proper resistance at the key, it will enable the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to crank the engine. At the same time the BCM enables the PCM to turn on the fuel pump. The pump will remain on as long as the engine is cranking or running and the PCM is receiving reference pulses (from the engine). If there are NO pulses the pump will shut off after 2 seconds.

If the improper resistance is seen, the BCM will NOT enable the PCM to turn on the pump or enable the starter. The “SECURITY” light will be illuminated.

The fuel tank wiring harness connector:

Pin A – Purple Fuel level sensor
Pin B – Grey Fuel pump power
Pin C – Black Ground
Pin D – Blk/white Ground

If the pump tests good, You may be fighting more than one problem here. A scan tool can be very helpful in these cases......Jb

Hey, I hooked up my Actron scan tool and it shoes fuel pump at 12 volts while tring to crank. I have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up during this and it shoes no change at all. She will run for a few seconds with a little starting fluid. I keep seeing that the vats will stop the starter also and is that true? The starter works ok so it was a little confuseing. Im used to the old school of classic cars and this computer stuff gets me. I will jump the relay and see what happens and let you know.
Thanks,
Mike

i thought the vats cut fuel only, but could be mistaken...this has been known to happen to me...lmao...on another note, starting fluid can and will damage the internals of your engine...it has its place for test purposes, but should be used in moderation...this i know for fact...

Most of the time I'm the bug! :yes:
I was just using the fluid a little to see if there was fire.

With the vats will it let the pump charge up for the few seconds when you first turn the key on?

We are having a bad storm here so I cant jump the relay right now.

Mike

I have the fuel pressure gauge hooked up during this and it shoes no change at all. MikeAre you saying there is no fuel pressure? Otherwise, you might see 45-55 PSIG.

I'd jumper the relay socket to make pump run continuously and view gauge. If no pressure, then suction tube, pump, or delivery line from pump to fuel rail plugged/gummed up.

If the line(s) are plugged, you should disconnect both ends and inject with a siphon gun, alcohol through the line to clean. Gallons of isopropyl alcohol can be bought from a paint store.

If VATS is satisfied, then starter will work as JohnnyB explains.

Hey, The gauge reads "0" all the time. I cant hear the pump come on. Oh yea I forgot to tell yall that there was no gas cap on the car either when I got it and it was about a 1/4 of a tank of fuel.

i will go out on a limb here and say the pump might have gotten water in it, froze, and cracked...if you can hear the pump but no pressure, thats where i`d go...mentioning that from go might have saved alot of time though...lmao...i can see todays fuels with ethanol plugging up fuel lines, due to bactirial growth, but if the car has been off the road for a while, i`d kinda doubt it...they only recently started the whole ethanol thing in my area bout 1.5 yrs ago...

Hey, The gauge reads "0" all the time. I cant hear the pump come on. Oh yea I forgot to tell yall that there was no gas cap on the car either when I got it and it was about a 1/4 of a tank of fuel.Well, now since we know more, drop the tank, clean out the old fuel and whatever else might have found its way inside.

Clean all the lines, check fuel pump for operation, check f/pump power line for power, check f/pump ground to battery neg post. And this isn't counting the injectors -- yet.

Buy a gas cap.

Not sure if this engine has a crank position sensor or not. If it does, a bad sensor will fool the ECM into thinking the engine is not turning over and it will not engage the fuel pump or enable the ignition. Same is true for the ignition module. Most service manuals should include a procedure for troubleshooting the crank and cam (ignition module) position sensors.

Hey, Just jumped the relay and nothing! Hoping it was something else. I will start pulling the exhaust and rear out tomarrow to get to the tank.
Thanks,
Mike

Do you have power to the relay socket?
If there is power to socket, and the jumper puts power to the pump harness, is there power at the pump connector out back?

Hey, I have power to the relay and out back at the connector.

One last effort before changing pump. Unplug the pump connector and measure with ohms scale, the resistance of the motor. I would think it would be the two larger wires in the connector as the other two would be for the sending unit.

And ground wire is good from body connector to chassis ground?

If all else fails, good Saturday job to drop ancillary equipment and tank to change pump. Good luck.