About once every two months, the darn thing will just not turn over at all. No battery issues. And as luck would aways have it, it happens when I am out for a drive and stop for gas, etc. Today when it happened I took the plate off the tran shift (auto tran) and jiggled the neutral safety switch wires. No luck, I rolled the car slightly, still no luck. I called for the free tow from haggerty and started to wait. Just for fun, I attempted to start the car when i was putting my haggerty card away, then bang, start. Any suggetions on what method to start the process of part elimination would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

You might have a heat soak problem with your starter if you're running headers. My 72 pick-up had the same issue. Once the engine got hot, she wouldn't start until I let it cool down. I ended up buying a heat shield for the starter which solved the problem.

Just for giggles I'd check the cables that attach to the starter. The day I purchased my '69, I stoped for gas and you guessedit, no start. Flat bedded the car home, installed a new battery, and nothing. Next thoght maybe the starter was cooked. I went to loosen the battery cable but it was already loose. Come to find out the previous owner had just installed it but never tightened the cables.
Hope it's this simple.

Real common, start by making sure your wire connections at the starter are clean and tight. Look for signs of melted insulation, it's a sigh of too much draw on the wire if present. Next check the connections at the neutral safety switch. When you crank the engine over there is a big draw on the system. Loose dirty wire connections will cause resistance to build up reducing the power to and sometimes effecting the starter solenoid. Typically the starter will work but after a drive and you shut down the heat goes up in and around the engine. Combine that with poor connections and you get no start.

After that there is the possibility that the windings in the starter solenoid heat soak (same as described above but internal to the solenoid. Next time you have a no start condition hook a mechanics remote starter up and with the key in the on position try to start the car. You can also do this by shorting the leads you hook the remote statrer button up to with a screwdriver if you have to. If the engine cranks over and starts, you have a bad solenoid. You can buy a relay to bypass it (often refered to as a "Ford remote starter solenoid") or you can replace the starter. I just went through this (just finished replacing my starter a few minutes ago.) here is a thread leading up to it...

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=110785

thanks. great stuff... I will work the process accordingly. Any more comments greatly appreciated.

I agree on the remote starter. That woulda been my primary suggestion. The remote starter bypasses all the small wiring and if you still can't crank the engine, then you know it's a major component - such as: cables, battery or starter.

I am having similar issue right now, but luckily, mine won't start as it sits in the garage! hahahaha So at least I didn't need a tow job, LOL. I hooked up a remote starter and it cranked over like crazy. I am pretty sure my problem is a faulty ignition switch, so I have one ordered and will install in next day or two, as soon as I get it from Rick's................

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I agree on the remote starter. That woulda been my primary suggestion. The remote starter bypasses all the small wiring and if you still can't crank the engine, then you know it's a major component - such as: cables, battery or starter.

I am having similar issue right now, but luckily, mine won't start as it sits in the garage! hahahaha So at least I didn't need a tow job, LOL. I hooked up a remote starter and it cranked over like crazy. I am pretty sure my problem is a faulty ignition switch, so I have one ordered and will install in next day or two, as soon as I get it from Rick's................

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I don't think it's your ignition switch, you had to have the key in the on position for the remote starter to work. The remote starter bypasses the solenoid and engaged the starters pinion gear which turned over the engine. It could be the neutral saftey switch between the ign sw and the starter, wiring between or the solenoid.

Dennis, mine acts real weird. If I turn key on, I hear the electric fuel pump. Then when I go to start, all I get is a click, and then the fuel pump will not even come back on. If I disconnect/reconnect battery, I get the same weird response.

Yet a remote start will crank it right over (WITHOUT THE KEY ON).................

I agree that it could be wiring somewhere, but I am hoping it is just the ignition switch.

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Dennis, mine acts real weird. If I turn key on, I hear the electric fuel pump. Then when I go to start, all I get is a click, and then the fuel pump will not even come back on. If I disconnect/reconnect battery, I get the same weird response.

Yet a remote start will crank it right over (WITHOUT THE KEY ON).................

I agree that it could be wiring somewhere, but I am hoping it is just the ignition switch.

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Just guessing but the fuel pump builds up pressure and shuts off so you wouldn't hear it. the remote should turn the engine over without the key in the on position but the engine shouldn't start. Good luck with it and if it's not the ign sw it won't hurt dependability having a new one...

I cannot see any wire melting issues. I was thinking about getting the heat soak sheild from classic industries. I have a 350 crate motor in my car. Does anybody have this sheild or see any mounting issues or problems. Seems like something always blindsides me on a project like this. Thanks.

Well, I got lucky, my new ignition switch fixed my problem.

68camrs, when this problem occurs, have you tried using a remote starter switch (or jumping the small term to big on the solenoid) to turn the engine over? This is really the very first test that needs to be done and will help isolate your particular issue and also make it easier for others to offer suggestions for a fix...............

Dave

Ok, i have my remote stater and will use it next time I can recreate this issue. I see by the remote starter instructions that it states to disable the ignition system before using by disconnecting the B+ wire on the distributor. Easier said than done on the road and stuck in a parking lot in 100+ heat. If this suspected heat soak happens again, can someone give me what i am supposed to be connecting and or disconnecting to test this issue.

To word this as questions - the next time my car will not start:

What do i connect the remote starter to?
Is there anything that needs to be disable or disconnected?
What key position should the key be in?
Is it ok if the car actually turns over and starts with the remote starter or will this damage some electrical component?

Thanks in advance.

All that you are attempting to test is the starter circuit (battery cables, battery, starter and solenoid). By using a remote starter switch, or jumping the terminals at the starter solenoid; you will be eliminating all the small wiring and safety switches from the test. This, in effect, is a process of elimination, so this test will help determine where your problem lies.

In other words, we are trying to locate the problem of why the engine won't turn over when the key is at the "start" position.

A "remote starter" that we are referring to here is not the kind that starts your car automatically. We are referring to a simple switching device that has a contact switch and two leads. One lead goes to a hot (positive) source (ie: positive battery terminal) and the other lead goes to the small terminal on the starter solenoid. My late-model starter only has one small terminal, and that is where the other wire from the remote starter would connect to. Or, you could simply use a short screwdriver and carefully short from the big terminal on the starter solenoid directly to the small terminal. Be careful not to short from the big terminal to ground!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Most older solenoids will have two terminals and I believe you would need to short the inner small terminal to the big terminal, but I could be wrong. If you short the wrong small terminal it won't matter anyway. Just try both.

You do not need to make any special preparations for this simple test. Leave the key in the "off" position and then perform the test.

Like I say, all you really need is a screwdriver. If I can find an old starter lying around, I'll take a pic of the terminals to short (connect).

Hope this helped..........................

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YES! It is very helpful. I went ahead and bought the remote starter to assist this test. it was only about 15 bucks and is exactly what you described above.

So - to summarize - next time i get the no start issue.
1- connect one end of the remote starter to the S terminal of the solenoid at the starter.
2- connect the other end of the remote starter to the Positive Battery at the Battery.
3- leave key in off position.
4 - pull trigger on remote starter.

Sorry for this dumb question - but i cannot get a good angle to see what is the S Post is on the solenoid. From under the car, I have the large terminal to battery and two smaller terminals. Of the two smaller terminals, is the terminal closest to the exhaust the S terminal and the connection point i am seeking for this test?

Thanks for the assist and detailed walk thru!