I know the DP-LF replaced the old DP epoxy. I was wondering what was the difference in quality. I've used the old DP epoxy and nevr had any problems, but Ive never used the new DP-LF. Does it adhere like the old DP epoxy? Has anyone had problems with the new line DP-LF? I've spent a lot of time and money getting my 67 RS down to bare metal and wanted to use the DP-LF then several coates of PPG's K200 ( I know they don't sell K200 anymore, but I still have a gallon for an older project). I'd hate to have all that work go down the drain!!!! If the DP-LF is no good, then what is another alternative that will work on bare metal along with the K200 and is by PPG? I need to use PPG because I get 40 percent off PPG paints. Any suggestions?

Everybody that Ive talked to says it isnt that bad. Its 'Lead Free', hence the LF. One thing(and dont get caught), your in a very VOC regulated state and when it 1st came out, the tech sheets said to mix it 1-1-1.5, but it wasnt VOC compliant, so they changed it to 1-1. The guys that Ive talked to like the 1st reduction method. We can still get some DP-90 and 401, so I personally havent used it.

If Austin isnt making to much money( http://www.camaros.net/forum/smile.gif), he might beable to shed some more lite on it for you.

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67 Camaro SS Conv.
70 Challenger R/T Conv.

I make as much as I can, but its still not near enough!
Well I only used the DP-LF for a short while before my shop switched to PPG Global. I personally can only tell you of one bad experience I had with it.
I was painting a car with two tone paint, I used the DP-LF as my sealer, let it flash applied my first color. After the first color was dry I masked off for the two tone, and painted the second color. When I unmasked it, the base coat came off with the tape but the sealer remained on the car. Now does this mean its junk? Maybe maybe not, but I was p*ssed and switched back to standard DP (at the time we could get either). Before that I didn't have any major complaints.
Beautiful story huh? Well even you can get the old DP, for bare metal I would still recomend using DX 1791 mixed with DX 1792 1-1. Salt tests prove for corrosion protection the metal etch (1791/2) out performs even the old DP. So I would recomend one light to medium coat of the metal etch on the bare metal then apply your primer surfacer.
Austin

Well, there ya have it. I work in a DuPont shop, and have nothing that compares to DP. If anybody that that knows anything about PPG products, Id ask Austin, he would know.


And hey Austin, dont we try to make as much as we can, and it still is never enough? Were just un-appreciated http://www.camaros.net/forum/frown.gif(that is as far as the collision industry goes).

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67 Camaro SS Conv.
70 Challenger R/T Conv.

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Austin:
I make as much as I can, but its still not near enough!
Well I only used the DP-LF for a short while before my shop switched to PPG Global. I personally can only tell you of one bad experience I had with it.
I was painting a car with two tone paint, I used the DP-LF as my sealer, let it flash applied my first color. After the first color was dry I masked off for the two tone, and painted the second color. When I unmasked it, the base coat came off with the tape but the sealer remained on the car. Now does this mean its junk? Maybe maybe not, but I was p*ssed and switched back to standard DP (at the time we could get either). Before that I didn't have any major complaints.
Beautiful story huh? Well even you can get the old DP, for bare metal I would still recomend using DX 1791 mixed with DX 1792 1-1. Salt tests prove for corrosion protection the metal etch (1791/2) out performs even the old DP. So I would recomend one light to medium coat of the metal etch on the bare metal then apply your primer surfacer.
Austin<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>


Can the DX1791 go over the bodyfiller or is it best to use glazing putty after the DX 1791? After the DX 1791, can K200 be applied to it, or do I still have to use something between the K200 and the DX 1791? I Really appreciate all your help!!

Use the DX1791/2 on bare metal only (adheasion to bare metal is excelent). If you have your repairs done and the rest of the panel is bare metal, spray the bare metal with the 1791/2 trying not to get too much on the body filler or unstriped paint (light overspray is fine). You will want to let the 1791/2 flash off good then you can apply the k200 directly over the metal etch.
Remember the metal etch is just for corrosion protection and doesn't have the body of the DP (it is transperent) so don't apply too much a light to medium coat is all thats needed. If you put on to much you will want to let it dry completely and scuff before appling the k200 (you don't want those acid solvents trapped under the primer) After its applied the bare metal should have a slightly yellow tint,but you will still see all the sand scratches through it.
Austin