how to take out c clips on a ten bolt chevy [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: how to take out c clips on a ten bolt chevy


jerryt
Jul 2nd, 07, 01:56 AM
Hi


does anyone know how to take out the c clip on a chevy 10 bolt rear end axle shafts? I have taken off all the drum brakes, and drained the fluid. Also I loosened the bolt that holds the pinion shaft. But the pinion shaft does not come out far enough to take out the shafts. Is there any way else or am I doing something wrong? If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

Thanks
Jerryt

novaderrik
Jul 2nd, 07, 02:10 AM
he cross shaft can be a pain sometimes. just use a soft chisel and a small hammer to gently push it inwards until you can push the axles in and pull the c clips out with a small magnet.
don't turn the gears at all while the cross shaft is pushed out, tho. sometimes the spider gears like to fall out or get out of alignment, but they usually go right back together. it's just easier if they don't fall out.

jerryt
Jul 2nd, 07, 02:24 AM
Ok

the cross shaft does not come down or go up far enough to push in the axles. Also do I need to take off the backing plate on the rear end to help take off the axles. The main reason I am taking off the axle is because I found rear end fluid leaking near the back left tire. do I need to pull the axle or am I missing something?

Thanks
Jerryt

Everett#2390
Jul 2nd, 07, 05:04 AM
Hopefully, when unscrewed the pinion lockscrew, it was long, say maybe 3 inches. If not, then you must remove the rest of the pin to get diff pinion shaft out.

Once the pinion shaft is out, just push in on the axle and the C-clip will fallout. Remove the axle, leave the backing plate alone, and replace the seal. Assemble in reverse, make sure the shim is behind the pinion gear whne installing the diff pinion shaft.

big gear head
Jul 2nd, 07, 08:10 AM
The cross shaft will come out. It takes some force sometimes to get it out, but it must come out to get the axles out. Keep trying and you'll get it.

Are you sure that it is gear oil and not brake fluid?

JimM
Jul 2nd, 07, 09:15 AM
I usually push it in about an inch, then rotate the rear so the part that was in is now sticking out. Then just grab it and pull!

The crossshaft really shouldn't be tight.You should be able tog rab it with your greasy fingers and yank it right out of there.

jerryt
Jul 2nd, 07, 10:07 AM
Hi

Now I am confused. The croosshaft has a bolt about 3 inches long, I loosened it and it wont come all the way out of the housing. The crosshaft also does not come down enough to push in the axles. When viewing the gears the shaft goes north and south. Does the Iinternal gears turn so I can get out the crossshaft? I saw the repair manual showing the crossshaft going from front to back on picture. And also about the fluid being perhaps brake fluid. I checked thats what I tought but it was thick and had that funky gear oil smell. Yuck.

Thanks


Jerryt

68 Ragtop
Jul 2nd, 07, 11:20 AM
Remove the pinion shaft lock bolt completely, it will come out. You will have to rotate the carrier a bit to get in a position that will allow removal.
Now you can position the carrier to a point you can slide the pinion shaft out and get at the c clips without rotating the carrier and disturbing the spiders. If you where looking at the pinion shaft from the wheel, this will be about 1:30-7:30 (o'clock) position, not the 12:00-6:00 or north -south position you describe.
It really shouldn't be difficult, but if the spiders move, you can get them back in with a little fanagling.
When reinstalling the pinion shaft, I like to draw a line on the end of it with a Sharpie to show the position of the hole for the lock bolt

zdld17
Jul 2nd, 07, 11:27 AM
Once you have pin shaft out, you push axle in and release clips, you can put the shaft back in place , just to keep any spider gear and or washers from falling out.

jerryt
Jul 2nd, 07, 02:41 PM
Ok I think I understand now. Sow now I have to loosen up the carrier blts. This is the ones that look like main caps on a engine block correct? And just loosen this carrier enough so I can slide out the cross shaft. Ok now to go out side and check all this out.

Thanks

Jerryt

68RS-SS
Jul 2nd, 07, 03:43 PM
No - you shouldn't have to loosen those bolts (the one that look like main caps). Once the 3" retainer bolt pin is unscrewed and removed (the one that is either 7 or 8mm bolt head) the pinion shaft should come out w/o much effort. Try pushing it forward and then pushing it backward (toward the diff. cover) And keep in mind you don't have to remove it all the way - just enough to allow you to push the axle farter in which will allow C clip fall out or be removed easily with magnet or fingers. I've pulled it out about 2 inches which is enough to allow the axles clearance to be pushed in (don't have to go in very far either). Good Luck

Everett#2390
Jul 2nd, 07, 04:19 PM
Once the 3" retainer bolt pin is unscrewed and removed (the one that is either 7 or 8mm bolt head) Good LuckIt's American, er, SAE. It will be either a 3/8 hex head or 3/16 inch Allen wrench for a socket head....LOL, I think, as least the ones I've worked on have been.

68 Ragtop
Jul 2nd, 07, 04:40 PM
Ok I think I understand now. Sow now I have to loosen up the carrier blts. This is the ones that look like main caps on a engine block correct? And just loosen this carrier enough so I can slide out the cross shaft. Ok now to go out side and check all this out.

Thanks

Jerryt
NO!
You must rotate the carrier so the pinion shaft will come out without hitting the case. Read the instructions and position the carrier like the picture.
This should be super simple. Does this help?
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m46/JamesESCA/axleremoval.jpg?t=1183416088

68RS-SS
Jul 2nd, 07, 04:47 PM
It's American, er, SAE. It will be either a 3/8 hex head or 3/16 inch Allen wrench for a socket head....LOL, I think, as least the ones I've worked on have been.

Uhm - may not - suggest you check again. The retainer pin is actually metric. Anyway.....

68 Ragtop
Jul 2nd, 07, 04:53 PM
http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m46/JamesESCA/axleremoval.jpg?t=1183416088
Why are my insert images showing up as links insted of pictures?

jerryt
Jul 2nd, 07, 05:06 PM
Ok

So the carrier will turn so I can get the cross shaft out. The three inch bolt as of right now does not come out it hits the inside of the rear end towards the drive shaft. To turn the carrier do I spin the tires or the driveshaft till it turns or can I use a srew driver. I looked at the previous picture and it show the carrier turned so they can get out the shaft. I have never worked on a rear end before sorry for being so lame.

Thanks
Jerryt

68 Ragtop
Jul 2nd, 07, 05:12 PM
Put the transmission in neutral and rotate the ring gear or pinion/driveshaft by hand.

Farm Boy
Jul 2nd, 07, 05:24 PM
I have seen two things prevent a cross shaft to hang up and not come out.

The most common problem is the cross shaft retainer bolt will break and a little piece will remain in the shaft preventing its removal.

I have also came across stuck cross shaft where the differential (spider) gear overheated and welded itself to the cross shaft. This caused the retainer bolt to break allowing the cross shaft to spin in the carrier (not good). The only thing that kept the cross shaft from coming out of the carrier was the “weld” between the cross shaft and the gear. Pounding on the cross shaft with a BFH would not budge it. Frustrated with my BFH, I got out my smoke wrench and used it on the shaft between the spider gears which took care of the problem shaft in a hurry. I was then able to remove the “C” clips, axles, and the carrier.

I had to replace the carrier, spider gears, and of course the cross shaft.

Everett#2390
Jul 2nd, 07, 07:14 PM
Ok, So the carrier will turn so I can get the cross shaft out. The three inch bolt as of right now does not come out it hits the inside of the rear end towards the drive shaft. I have never worked on a rear end before sorry for being so lame. Thanks JerrytConsider yourself fortunate the bolt is on one piece, Thank the gods.

As suggested, turn the carrier to the position in the picture and the bolt will come out if the bolt is near the carrier bearing bolthead, as shown in the picture from the shop manual by 68 ragtop.

Tongue should be between upper & lower molars, it'll slide better. Don't stop asking questions, you'll never learn.

jerryt
Jul 2nd, 07, 07:41 PM
Thank you to all that have sent me email on how to fix the axles. I forgot to ask this question. When I pull the axles will the bearingand seal come out or do I need a special tool? Thanks to all. And do I need these bearings pressed on and off?

Jerryt

JimM
Jul 2nd, 07, 08:19 PM
The bearing and seal are pressed into the ends of the axle tube, they will not come out with the axle.

You can pry the sela out.;

Autozone will rent you a slide hammer bearing puller that will get the bearings out. Note that mine came out in peices, kep track of all the rollers.

The axle IS the inner bearing race, it rides right on the rollers. If you have a bad bearing, you probably also have a bad axle (or 2)

If you need em, I have a pair. I think.
Will 8.5" standard axles fit in an 8.2"?

big gear head
Jul 2nd, 07, 08:35 PM
8.5 axles will fit the 8.2 if they are the same length. It seems to me that the problem all along has been that you had the differential in the wrong position. With the transmission in neutral, turn the drive shaft until the bolt will come out. If the bolt does not come all the way out then that is not a problem. All you have to do is get it out far enough that it releases the cross shaft. Turn the differential so that the cross shaft will come out. You don't have to take the shaft all the way out to get the c clips out. It might be best if you left the shaft in far enough that it keeps the gears from rotating in the differential case. You will have to get a bearing remover to pull the axle bearings out of the housing. This is what it will look like.
http://thumb7.webshots.net/s/thumb1/1/52/57/55415257FNaMLZ_th.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1055415257041712107FNaMLZ)
You will need to pry the seal out first and then pull the bearing out. When you put it back together be sure to use a little RTV sealant around the seal before you drive it in. Squirt some gear oil into the axle bearing before putting the axle back in, and put a little oil on the seal too. Use some blue Locktite on the retaining bolt when you put it back in.

By the way, the bolt in the 8.2 has a 1/2 inch head on it. It is not metric. The bolt in the 8.5 has a 5/16 head on it. It is also not metric.

68RS-SS
Jul 3rd, 07, 12:49 PM
Regarding Metric - Not that it matters too much - most important is that he gets that dang shaft out so he can move on with the project. Anyway - it appears there are some inconsistencies as I just removed this bolt in my 12 bolt in process of installing new disc brakes. The SSBC instructions that came with the kit designed for GM 12 Bolts specified a 7mm wrench. I tried but was too small so stepped to an 8mm. It fit perfectly w/o any looseness at all. Sounds like these rears were possibly assembled by GM using a different part/bolt head over the years.

Everett#2390
Jul 3rd, 07, 01:00 PM
Yep, 8 MM = 5/16 inch.

big gear head
Jul 3rd, 07, 09:25 PM
Must be an Auburn differential. All of the Eaton differentials had a 1/2 inch head on the bolt. The Auburn has a 5/16, but the 8mm will also fit.