And the problems keep comming!!!!!!!!!!!!! Today after a long drive I shut the car down when my wife went into the store. When she came out I started it and put it in reverse and whamo no reverse. Put it in drive the reverse again and now it works. Put it in drive and start driving and now I hear grinding noises.. All the way home I heard grinding. I jacked up the car put it in drive and let the tires run. It sounded like the rear and also the tranny??? I ended up pulling the cover to check the gears and all looked well. Went for a drive and it was gone for 2 blocks then heard it real loud again. I also notice the last 2 days when I stop at a light it starts off in 2nd gear and then shifts down to first. What would cause that?

sounds like your tranny is going south on you. for starting in second gear metal is most likely sticking governer.

What would cause that?


A miss in #6 cylinder would be my first suspect:D


I'm sorry Marc, I couldn't resist.

Damtheluck. Chin up

A miss in #6 cylinder would be my first suspect:D


I'm sorry Marc, I couldn't resist.

Damtheluck. Chin up

Thanks, I was looking a cylinder #9 the WHOLE time!

It's funny how things happen. Today when I was mowing my lawn I heard a loud clunk from my tractors rear. Now my 3rd gear makes a clicking noise. Should of been a sign... After that long drive with my wife and son I was telling the wife how good my car was running. I was so happy! I stop at the store to get some marshmellows for tonight and this happens. To top it off I went and pulled my diff cover to take a look and change the fluid and I nearly cut my tip of my finger off with a new razor! Prob needs stiches but I'm stuborn. Hey Happy fourth of July!!!!!!

Pull the pan on the tranny, check for shrapnel.

Pull the pan on the tranny, check for shrapnel.

I'm bringing it to the tranny shop monday. I'll let him do that. I hate working on trannys. He told me worse case I'm looking at $1000 to rebuild / w converter. I'm sure it will be worse case. I'm still not even sure it's the tranny. It sure sounds like gears grinding/whining but the reverse thing is weird. It only happend once. And the starting off in second the quickly going into first says it's the tranny. Can a tranny going bad sound like gears whining?

cyl * 16 heated up the tranny fluid in the cooler lines. which the fuse lighted in the tranny just in time for the 4 of july. a M-80 went off kaboom goes the planets in the tranny.:D drop the tranny pan you will see metal to build a necklace to melt down and make.

planets in the tranny.


If I could do multiquote I'd put where you ask if a tranny going bad can sound like gears whining.


I think Bills telling you it sounds like the planetary gears

Automatics have gears, they go out. They also can crapp out a couple thousand other ways too.

mnm what kind of tranny do you have? a powerglide,350 or 400 and any high rpm torque converter in there.

planets went south in the wifes mpv...got stuck in second about 45 mins from my house...sucked, but at the time, i owned a wrecker, so i got it back easy enough...pulled the trans apart, and the vibration i had been feeling for 15000 miles was evident...lmao...

Splines on the planetary shaft in the F-350 in my profile went out about 6 months after that pic was taken. Pisr.
I took good care of that tranny, had Ford service it 2 or 3 times in it's life and never abused it other than normal severe overload.

It just sheared all the teeth off the spline, putter puttering along about 40 mph. Sounded like a pump cavitating severely all of a sudden and then go no mo.

mnm what kind of tranny do you have? a powerglide,350 or 400 and any high rpm torque converter in there.

Turbo 350, Hughes 2500 stall.

1000.00 bux is about right for a 350 rebuilt with him taking it out and puting it back in. also make sure he has your converter rebuilt and not put a stock converter in there.if i remember right theres a private shop in long island that does torque converters. im a little far from you im about 3 hours away from you.

1000.00 bux is about right for a 350 rebuilt with him taking it out and puting it back in. also make sure he has your converter rebuilt and not put a stock converter in there.if i remember right theres a private shop in long island that does torque converters. im a little far from you im about 3 hours away from you.

Thats one reason why I hate when people work on my cars, you never know what was REALLY done. I don't think he'll rebuild my converter. I think he told me he would put a new one in. If there is any metal in the tranny he wouldn't use the one I have. I hope that price is for a 2500 stall also.

just ask him before you take car to him about it. a new b&m 2400 stall 268.00 from jegs.

Well it's at the tranny shop! Tech took it for a ride and said its the first gear drum or sprag something like that.. Put it on the lift and pulled the pan. There was tons of metal pieces in the pan. He rebuilding it with a new 2200 converter. It only made the sound in first gear. What parts cause first gear to go bad and start to make noise? He said any longer and the tranny wouldn't be moving if I kept driving it.

Gas pedal.

Gas pedal.

How?? I haven't brought the motor over 4000rpm. It's new and I'm still breaking it in. No burn outs, no Power breaking or not even over 65! Pulled in front of Stop N Shop, let the wife out to get watermellon and shut the car down. She came back and I started it up , put it in drive and whamo! Started driving and I hear that. My tranny guy said it was on it's way out before I started to hear anything. Soon it would have happened in all gears.

Sorry Marc, Just assumed you might have been having fun or maybe it was ran hard prior to your build but normally at turbo 350 won't go out anywhere that easy.

Thanks, I was looking a cylinder #9 the WHOLE time!

... After that long drive with my wife and son I was telling the wife how good my car was running.

Its a bummer about the transmission, but What was the final verdict for the engine fix?

I JUST got my TH400 done.
It was built by a guy that built it like a swiss watch. I've learned more about trannys in the last two weeks than ever before.

The planetaries in your first gear most likely went because of lack of lubrication.
Its possible that the sun gear was installed upside down which seriously inhibits lube to the planetaries. They go out in 10k, 15k or even 20k miles but in my case, it was 1k.
One other reason for not enough lube is the pump gear getting beat to crap by the flex plate being uneven.

Tell your tranny guy, to get a really good flex plate and put it on a brake lathe. If there is any wobble visible to the naked eye, its no good. Scat plates are good.
Parts stores were pist because I kept coming in with flex plates telling them they were not good. They were getting sick of me.

This is their retort. Once bolted to the converter, the wobble be gone. NOPE.
I saw it with my own eyes.
So make sure the flex plate is really good.
When they beat the pump gear, pressures after awhile, suffer. This effects the entire tranny.
Ask your tranny guy to go with a billet steele drum, watch which way he puts the sun gear in (I guess this is more common that I thought) and dual feel the 3rd gear.

Ask him to drill and tap into the pan provisions for two sending units. One for trans temp, the other for trans pressure. You can get an electric gauge for both.
Its important to know what sort of pressures your trans is making. Its also important to know what sort of temps you're running.

Here is one more thing, when he gets it together, you and him should go for a ride with a mechanical gauge hooked up. Just see what sort of pressures you run.
You should see about 150 or so in 1st and 2nd and you should see about 90 or so for 3rd when cruising.
Reverse will be off the charts. 200+.

Pay attention to how the tranny guy runs your lines. It was a mystery to me but I have learned that the lines should go to the radiator, to cool the fluid to engine coolant temp, then to a cooler for further cooling and then back to the trans.
Spend the clams for some decent line.

My tranny guy told me that if I don't gear down and just use the brakes, if I don't power brake, if don't get all over the throttle in 1st and then get off again without shifting, the trans will last a very long time. He used the word, forever but I know that is an expression. Added insurance is having a pressure and temp gauge there to monitor trans operations.

He also told me to change the oil more frequently than most people do. He uses type F.

Its a bummer about the transmission, but What was the final verdict for the engine fix?

Ended up getting a blaster 2 coil, Autolite plugs. I still have a slight miss at idle only that I'm sure you and I will hear but nobody else. It's one of those kind of things. I'm just dealing with it. It still smokes at idle also with 375 miles. After 500 miles and a oil change if it's still smoking I'm bringing it back to the dealer where I bought it from. I either want a replacement or may pay more for a ZZ4 or 383. Bottom line it shouldn't be smoking after 500 miles and I did everything right during break in. So far I talked to 3 people that bought the 290hp and ZZ4 and they never had smoking problems.

Good recommendations.

I'm a little pissed right now. The tranny is apart and he found the Planetary gear wiped out. Before this all started I asked worse case how much am I looking at? He told me $1000. I just talked to him and he told me it is going to cost the $1000 tranny rebuild + $150 for the planetary gear + $50 kick down + $195 for all new lines. I knew I needed the kick down cable. I'm up to around $1400 with the new lines. He said it's pretty much stock with a couple tricks he does make to make it shift firm. Is this still in the ball park for a tranny installed?

Why $200 for new lines?
What's wrong with the old ones besides maybe having some removable/flushable debris in them?
Unless the lines are alittle rusty or look like they need replacement.....

Get it out of that shop.
200 for lines? I bought THE best lines a hydraulic shop had to offer for about 3.77 a foot.
200? Please.....

And why does he think that the planetary should be extra? The planetary is apart of a total rebuild.
My tranny guy replaced mine because they were destroyed from not enough lubrication. This is obviously your case too.

So take it somewhere else, its worth the tow fee. This guy is taking you for a ride. Some of these shops see early Camaros and hotrods and think we're rich. We're not. So they are trying to cut a fat hog in the @ss by gouging us.

Screw them. Take it somewhere else or just buy one out right.

Hopefully the place you do take it to will address the cause of the problem of no lube to the planetary gears.
Sun gear?
Pump bad or not up to snuff? Is the pump bad because of a wobbling flex plate?

I'm no expert but I've just got done going through this.

Why $200 for new lines?
What's wrong with the old ones besides maybe having some removable/flushable debris in them?
Unless the lines are alittle rusty or look like they need replacement.....


The lines are pieced together with a 6 inch rubber hose from the last owner. I guess the tranny was repaired a while ago and they just cut the lines instead of removing them from the tranny first. The lines are also flapping all around and not bolted down. A little rusty too. The thing is he quoted me $125 6 months ago when I had him fix a leaky pan and now it's $195. I was going to replace the lines anyway, but now the price went up too.

Is $1150 worth it for a rebuild and install?

Mark, order the lines yourself and bring them to him or tell him you will supply them, here is a place that has them for $59.99 http://www.ecklerscamaro.com/dept.asp?PageNumber=3&dept%5Fid=15&level=0

IMO your paying to much.

Mark, order the lines yourself and bring them to him or tell him you will supply them, here is a place that has them for $59.99 http://www.ecklerscamaro.com/dept.asp?PageNumber=3&dept%5Fid=15&level=0

IMO your paying to much.

He was installing the tranny today. I should have gotten them a while ago and did it myself. I'm at the point right now for $1400 if it doesn't leak, shifts firm, downshifts right and it's not going to give me a problem I don't care! I've been through enough...........

Get it out of that shop.
200 for lines? I bought THE best lines a hydraulic shop had to offer for about 3.77 a foot.
200? Please.....

And why does he think that the planetary should be extra? The planetary is apart of a total rebuild.
My tranny guy replaced mine because they were destroyed from not enough lubrication. This is obviously your case too.

So take it somewhere else, its worth the tow fee. This guy is taking you for a ride. Some of these shops see early Camaros and hotrods and think we're rich. We're not. So they are trying to cut a fat hog in the @ss by gouging us.

Screw them. Take it somewhere else or just buy one out right.

Hopefully the place you do take it to will address the cause of the problem of no lube to the planetary gears.
Sun gear?
Pump bad or not up to snuff? Is the pump bad because of a wobbling flex plate?

I'm no expert but I've just got done going through this.

What did you pay for a rebuild?

What did you pay for a rebuild?


I bought the billet steele drum at 95.
I bought the HD 4X4 case for 225
I bought the lines for 40 dollars or so.
I bought the converter, a Hughes 3500 stall for 510.
I bought the flex plate for 59 call it 60.

He put it all together after first mocking it up and he:
made provisions for two sending units
ran the lines like they were done at a factory because they real solid and don't move very much
He used a heavy duty sprag
He dual fed 3rd gear
He didn't use thrust bearings, he used roller bearings. He's renowned for rollarizing tranny's. People come far and wide for his 700R4's, they can take major HP and not break but he wants a lot for them. When I was there watching him put this together, he took a thrust bearing, put the 1st and 2nd gear parts into the case, while it stood on its end, then spun them and they spun around about 3 times. Then he pulled them out, put in his roller bearings and did the same thing and they spun about 20 times with one twist. He says this eliminates a lot of heat.
He adjusted the governors to shift correctly
and he tested the hell out of everything with a line gauge and a vacuum gauge hooked up so that he could make sure it was all very good.

His cost was 1200.
So I know I paid a lot but this guy is to tranny people, what Einstein is to engineers. Many people around here know about him.

1620 for just the tranny. 500 or so for the converter. I went for broke on this because I was sick of dealing with tranny problems.

So you aren't paying a lot but on the other hand, you don't want this guy to just slap together a tranny for it to only last a short time. Just putting it together and stuffing it into the car isn't good enough.

He needs to test things and see what is happening to the tranny when it operates.
What if your vacuum modulator isn't working correctly?
It could keep full pressure on in cruise which can damage your crank. Or not keep enough pressure on during WOT in 3rd which will smoke your clutches.
This is why he told me to not drive around in 1st and 2nd all the time. Not a good cruising gear because its at full pressure. And gone are the days of me leaving it in reverse while I put on my sunglasses. The pressure is quite a lot in reverse. Over 200.
With the tranny having the capability for sending units, I've already installed a temperature gauge and I've ordered a pressure gauge. They will ride, right next to a vacuum gauge. That way, I can immediately check the health and function of my transmission. I can also trouble shoot problems right away should any arise.

My last transmission I got done, installed for about 8 bills. The sungear was put in upside down, the pump was not updated and the crank was not even touching the converter. The modulator wasn't doing its job and there was not full pressure in 3rd, which smoked my clutches.

Sure you get what you pay for but there is a ripoff factor too. When I see 200 for lines, I think ripoff. If these are some sort of stainless steel, polished lines that look great, I can see the justification but if they are just lines, 200 is way too much.

Did I mention that the latest tranny guy found a couple of electrical problems that had eluded me and just fixed them?

Also, I should mention that I always had to shift this TH400 manually because it shifted too early in 'drive' and felt like a 1 speed transmission. I now feel every shift and there is no reason now to manually shift.
Its great.

He was installing the tranny today. I should have gotten them a while ago and did it myself. I'm at the point right now for $1400 if it doesn't leak, shifts firm, downshifts right and it's not going to give me a problem I don't care! I've been through enough...........

You also want it to last a long time too.

If you just cruise this car and you don't do a lot of dyno runs and drag racing, it should last for 200k miles.

You also want it to last a long time too.

If you just cruise this car and you don't do a lot of dyno runs and drag racing, it should last for 200k miles.

No dyno and no drag racing. I don't even romp on it. With 2:73's and a one legger rear whats the point! Thats no fun....NOW...When i get a 9" posi, thats a different story. But that won't be for a long time down the road. Damn I just jinxed myself!!!!!!!!!!!:sad: Thats my luck!

He was installing the tranny today. I should have gotten them a while ago and did it myself. I'm at the point right now for $1400 if it doesn't leak, shifts firm, downshifts right and it's not going to give me a problem I don't care! I've been through enough

I understand.

Also, I should mention that I always had to shift this TH400 manually because it shifted too early in 'drive' and felt like a 1 speed transmission. I now feel every shift and there is no reason now to manually shift. Its great.There is a reason for an 'early' shifting THM400, its because of the internal weight & the momentum this weight produces.

Visit your trans guy again and have him let you left the fully built drums, you'll be amazed. Wear steel toe'd shoes. This weight needs alot of energy to start moving, or stopping in second gear.

In first gear, the two drums rotate opposite of each other. Second gear comes in, rear drum is stopped. Third gear comes in and the stopped drum now spins with the front drum. So, the sooner it gets to third, the better.

My 454 Dually is in third gear, with 12 in. of manifold vacuum, by 20 mph. With 10 in. of vacuum, third gear is 35 mph.

For both of you, it reads like your trans guys know what they are doing, buy'em a pizza for Friday lunch.

Here's the update! Only driving it normal. Shifts very firm 1-2 and firm 2-3. I may have him ease up a little on the 1-2 shift. Shifts at correct speeds depending on gas pedal and down shifts perfect. The lines look really nice and the kick down cable looks quality. It has a 12 month 12000 mile warrenty. So far so good. Here's the break down he gave me. Had the car 3 days.

-Complete Tranny rebuild / includes replacement torque converter and chemical flush. Labor $595
-Master Over haul kit $190
-Torque Converter 2200 stall $195
-Band ??? $39.95
-Filter $15.95
-Fluid $39.50
-Rear planet carrier sun gear $115
-Kickdown cable connected $28.95
-Cooling lines $195
- New front pump ( didn't charge me, worker forgot to tell him ) N/C

Total $1395
Tax $120
----------
Total $1514

This is exactly what was on his reciept, Sound right?

Hopefully now you can rest. You have had more than your share of car problems.

Hopefully now you can rest. You have had more than your share of car problems.

Yup I'm broke! :beers:

Now to sit back and enjoy the drive.........

Now to sit back and enjoy the drive.........
I think I will!

Good things do happen. I own my own tile and flooring business on top of my 40hr job. I just picked up 3 small jobs yesterday:hurray: Should be done with them by next week. I work alot, but that pays for my sons toys and mine. This came at a good time at least.

Quick question..What has to be done to calm down 1-2nd shift on the tranny. It shifts pretty hard and I'm a little worried about the rear. He said just come back if I don't like it and he'll take care of it. Just wondering.

Define the shift kick. IMO, if the 1-2 shift is a "pat on the kidneys," I would not worry about it. If it is a football kick in the kidneys, then maybe a little toning down of 1-2 shift might be in order.

I have a 88 MC SS with a Rossler THM 400 installed from PO. It has the football kick, only because pump pressure is cranked up. But, if I barely touch the pedal, 1-2 shift is smooth, and personally, I like it.

To each their own. Its not going to destroy the driveshaft or rear axle if this is your concern. May be a little annoying. In reality, the shorter the shift time, the better.

It doesn't rattle me or anything. I guess like you said , it's much quicker not a smooth easing on the gas. I never got on it yet to see that. I guess I'm used to firm. It's almost like if I put traction bars on it would feel firm. Like the rear is wraping real quick. 2-3 feels firm not like 1-2.

Is this trans throttle cable shift? Modulator ? Those can cause this shift kick too.

Glad to hear your on the road again Marc.

Is this trans throttle cable shift? Modulator ? Those can cause this shift kick too.

Modulator shouldn't be a factor for the 1-2 shift.

Define the shift kick. IMO, if the 1-2 shift is a "pat on the kidneys," I would not worry about it. If it is a football kick in the kidneys, then maybe a little toning down of 1-2 shift might be in order.

I have a 88 MC SS with a Rossler THM 400 installed from PO. It has the football kick, only because pump pressure is cranked up. But, if I barely touch the pedal, 1-2 shift is smooth, and personally, I like it.

To each their own. Its not going to destroy the driveshaft or rear axle if this is your concern. May be a little annoying. In reality, the shorter the shift time, the better.

He's right, its better on the tranny to have a shorter shift time. For those smooth luxurious shifts, the tranny is actually, briefly in two gears at once.

The planetaries in your first gear most likely went because of lack of lubrication.
Its possible that the sun gear was installed upside down which seriously inhibits lube to the planetaries.



Ask your tranny guy to go with a billet steele drum, watch which way he puts the sun gear in (I guess this is more common that I thought) and dual feel the 3rd gear.

Ask him to drill and tap into the pan provisions for two sending units. One for trans temp, the other for trans pressure. You can get an electric gauge for both.


There is a proper direct the sun gear needs to be installed, beveled side down, but it doesn't affect lube to the planetary sets.

Billet steel forward hub is only needed on a transbrake or 750+ HP application. I have some stock ones at ~900 flywheel HP now without issue.

How are you going to drill a provision in the pan to check line pressure?

He's right, its better on the tranny to have a shorter shift time. For those smooth luxurious shifts, the tranny is actually, briefly in two gears at once.

The way a TH400 shifts, being a clutch over clutch application, it isn't really briefly in two gears at once.
The only time this would be the case is if there is a huge calibration issue where the band doesn't come off fast enough from manual low, it isn't a factor if the trans is automatically shifting from 1st to 2nd while the shifter is in Drive as the low band will not be applied.

A too harsh shift from 1st to 2nd is one of the worst things you can do to a TH400.

The way a TH400 shifts, being a clutch over clutch application, it isn't really briefly in two gears at once.
The only time this would be the case is if there is a huge calibration issue where the band doesn't come off fast enough from manual low, it isn't a factor if the trans is automatically shifting from 1st to 2nd while the shifter is in Drive as the low band will not be applied.

A too harsh shift from 1st to 2nd is one of the worst things you can do to a TH400.

This is a TH350.
Would that make a difference?

Yes,
A TH350 essentially operates the same as TH400. A too harsh 1-2 shift on either will cause damage to the intermediate sprag or roller clutch.

A TH350 has a somewhat weaker design intermediate roller clutch because the outer race is thinner and more likely to break into pieces. Most builders install a hardened outer race to help here but the real fix is to not have a brutal 1-2 shift and in a racing or 450+ HP application you use the 36 element sprag and drum setup.

Stock TH350 roller clutch and direct drum pieces:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/jakeshoe/TH350directdrumnsprag.jpg

Hardened outer race next to a stock race:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/jakeshoe/TH350intspragraces.jpg

TH350 36 element sprag and drum setup:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d8/jakeshoe/100_2980.jpg

The way a TH400 shifts, being a clutch over clutch application, it isn't really briefly in two gears at once.
The only time this would be the case is if there is a huge calibration issue where the band doesn't come off fast enough from manual low, it isn't a factor if the trans is automatically shifting from 1st to 2nd while the shifter is in Drive as the low band will not be applied.

A too harsh shift from 1st to 2nd is one of the worst things you can do to a TH400.

It depends on what you think is too harsh.

There is a proper direct the sun gear needs to be installed, beveled side down, but it doesn't affect lube to the planetary sets.

Billet steel forward hub is only needed on a transbrake or 750+ HP application. I have some stock ones at ~900 flywheel HP now without issue.

How are you going to drill a provision in the pan to check line pressure?

It will effect lubrication to the planetary. I saw it with my own eyes. Otherwise, installing it upside down wouldn't be any harm.

I mentioned the billet steele hub because he wanted to know how much I paid so itemized.

It will effect lubrication to the planetary. I saw it with my own eyes. Otherwise, installing it upside down wouldn't be any harm.

I mentioned the billet steele hub because he wanted to know how much I paid so itemized.

Too harsh is a subjective term but the harder it shifts to 2nd gear, the more shock loading happens to the intermediate sprag, so at some point it becomes too harsh.

There is no reason to have a transmission shift "hard" at light throttle openings. Crisp yes, but it shouldn't really even chirp the tires at part throttle unless you don't care about reliability.

As for the lube,
Why don't you explain to me the route of the lube flow and exactly what becomes an issue when the sun gear is installed upside down.

As for the lube,
Why don't you explain to me the route of the lube flow and exactly what becomes an issue when the sun gear is installed upside down.

Why don't you explain it to me? If the sun gear is installed upside down doesn't effect the lubrication, then why would it be an issue? My planetaries were hashed badly and obviously hadn't gotten the proper lubrication. They were tore up.

And I forgot about the question about the sending unit. I meant to say, the case not the pan. With the pan, he tapped in a drain plug like on an oil pan.

Why don't you explain it to me? If the sun gear is installed upside down doesn't effect the lubrication, then why would it be an issue? My planetaries were hashed badly and obviously hadn't gotten the proper lubrication. They were tore up.


There are lots of reasons for planetaries to fail, lube being a big one but one that isn't usually an issue on a TH400.

The sun gear is not an issue. I've torn down many usints with the sun gear installed "upside down" and they were fine. The reason we keep the not beveled side up is so that is positively locates on the reaction shaft.

You are making a statement you claim to be fact but you have no basis to back it up other than your planetaries failed.

Take a TH400 sun gear and install it on the reaction shaft, it will only clock in two different spots because of the "dead spline" Either way you install it either beveled side up or down the lube holes aligns perfectly centered, and even if it did not, the lube to the rear planets travels down the dead spline to the torrington bearing at the back of the reaction shaft. It will feed into the center of that bearing and be slung outwards because of centrifugal force.

If you had a lube flow probem, it was most likely due to your cooler, not internal in the trans, and if it was in the trans, it may very well have been a worn bushing forward of the planets, plugged passage, etc.
The lube flows from the front of the trans to the rear, so anywhere it bleeds off forward of the planets would reduce flow to the planets. The planets only need generous lube in 1st and 2nd gear, they are locked together in 3rd, so the center support bushing and rear thrust become the only things that need lube at that point.

A kinked cooler line or plugged cooler will starve it for lube flow. Much more likely scenario.

If you planets were really torn up it could have been a failed pinion needle bearing, torrington thrust bearing, etc from wear, or maybe a too harsh shift over time...

Before you state something as fact, you need to understand it thoroughly enough to explain your statement.

Your sun gear wasn't the issue.

Your sun gear wasn't the issue.

So if its not an issue then why would we care if the sun gear is upside down or not? In fact, the guy that built mine machined in 4 extra grooves that throw the oil better.

The lines and cooler were fine.
The planetaries weren't getting enough, if not any lube and were tore up, The 3rd gear clutches were gone, there were signs of excessive heat
and the sun gear was upside down.

I don't dispute there were other reasons for the lack of lube. The pump was very old and never had been updated and there was an oriface that should have been removed as stated in a service bulletin from 1977. Its an oriface on the intermediate shaft.

How about a picture of the planets?

I stated why the sun gear goes in beveled side down, the non-beveled side creates a stop for the reaction shaft.

How about a picture of the planets?

I stated why the sun gear goes in beveled side down, the non-beveled side creates a stop for the reaction shaft.

That's a good idea, he told me he still has them. I'll go over and get them and take some pictures.
He has all the bad parts which I didn't want, he kept the torque converter. One he'd never seen anything like in 30 years of transmission work.
He could not identify it.