When I put my LT1 in my 68, I want to use an original tank and in line fuel pump. If I weld this sump to the bottom of the tank, will it help for fuel starvation etc.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_219_full.jpg

When I put my LT1 in my 68, I want to use an original tank and in line fuel pump. If I weld this sump to the bottom of the tank, will it help for fuel starvation etc.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/2184000-2184999/2184953_219_full.jpg

will help, but some additional baffling would also help.

Jody

Thanks, the instructions say to drill five 2.5 inch holes in the bottom of the tank. Would that be the baffling?

You should be fine if you do that with the holes.

I wouldn't do it.

My experience, - I swapped 1989 IROC TPI & Trans into 65 Lemans. At 1st with external fuel pump, ruined the fuel tank with several attempts at creating proper sumps and baffles. With the old, flat tank there was always a dry spot with the loss of fuel to pump i.e less than 1/2 full, cornering etc. Good way to burn up at $100 fuel pump as I lost 2 in 50K miles.

Check out in tank mounted fuel pump units with built-in housing/pick-up baffle like those found at www.tanksinc.com. (http://www.tanksinc.com.) Simple installation - cut hole in the top of fuel tank, bolt in the pump with reservoir, rewire and go. All vents/pplumbing included. At around $250, wish they had these 10 years ago when I 1st swapped.

I wouldn't do it.

My experience, - I swapped 1989 IROC TPI & Trans into 65 Lemans. At 1st with external fuel pump, ruined the fuel tank with several attempts at creating proper sumps and baffles. With the old, flat tank there was always a dry spot with the loss of fuel to pump i.e less than 1/2 full, cornering etc. Good way to burn up at $100 fuel pump as I lost 2 in 50K miles.

Check out in tank mounted fuel pump units with built-in housing/pick-up baffle like those found at
www.tanksinc.com. (http://www.tanksinc.com.) Simple installation - cut hole in the top of fuel tank, bolt in the pump with reservoir, rewire and go. All vents/pplumbing included. At around $250, wish they had these 10 years ago when I 1st swapped.


Well I did mine about 8 years ago and only made 3 holes for baffles, I could watch the fuel pressure drop when coming to a stop if the tank was 1/4 or lower but it still has the same Aeromotovive pump in it which runs both the nitrous and motor.
I'm guessing you had other issues.

Is this the part you mean.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/home_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm

Yup, that's the rascal.

When I 1st swapped I just welded a return line into the tank and increased the pick-up line to 3/8 inch. - Of course I replaced the metal fuel line and bought special EFI rubber hose where needed. This worked pretty well and I lived with the occasional hiccup for several years - I just got tired of keeping the tank above 1/4, the odd lag while cornering, stopping etc. Over the years I made a couple of pick-up sumps and baffle arrangements with little improvement.

When I upgraded the engine from 5.0 to 5.7, with big-mouth intake, 24# injectors, LT4 Hot cam, Dart heads, the hiccups increased. That motivated me for a formal attempt at baffleing and sump creation. The A-body tank is only about about 10-12 inches tall and very wide and my guess was the fuel sloshed all around when you drive. I was comfortable cutting and welding on a 40 year old fuel tank, but not everyone has the tools and experience.

My suggestion for the 1-piece part was beacause I like to do as much of the stuff myself, and this is an inexpensive, easy bolt-in factory-like fuel-injection pump - all inlets and wires in one place and no welding or heavy leak testing. Only drawback is how to access it the top of the tank for service without dropping the tank or cutting a trap door in the trunk floor.

Not knowing the entire situation with tool access/labor/welding etc. and with the costs of the sump, fittings, fuel line, welding/testing, external fuel pump, filter and so on, it may be cheaper.

Since fuel injection requires constant high fuel pressure, +/- 50#'s - the contemporary engineering really sunk in for me after replacing the fuel guage relay on my 2000 Silverado and a fuel pump in a 2003 LeSabre. There's a reason the EFI pumps are in the tank with a built-in cannister sump - it cools both fuel and pump and keeps constant high pressure flow. My 2 cents ;)

Thanks for the help. I think I will send a tank to Ricks Hot Rod shop for EFI setup. Thanks again.

Well I did mine about 8 years ago and only made 3 holes for baffles, I could watch the fuel pressure drop when coming to a stop if the tank was 1/4 or lower but it still has the same Aeromotovive pump in it which runs both the nitrous and motor.
I'm guessing you had other issues.


To comment on the low PSI issue (and not the external pump part), the early 3rd gens did not have baffled tanks. 1/4 tank & below I used to get all sorts of stuttering issues on hard cornering & sometimes launch. CFI application, pump in tank. Just thought I'd add my experience. I will have a baffle setup in the 67 for the LS1.

Is this the part you mean.
http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/category_id=61/home_id=61/mode=prod/prd84.htm

http://www.tanksinc.com/cartimages/prd_sm_84.jpg

Does that tray lay on the bottom of the tank? Will it prevent the last gallon or so from being picked up?