I've been looking hard at converting my 388 to a hydraulic roller (comp cams 286HR). I know I need a billet core with a cast gear. Has anybody had any issues with the comp 853-16 lifters? Or is it just the solid rollers that have the street durability issues that you read about all the time? My big issue is with the cam thrust button...its just seems to be such an un-precise way of doing things. Do I need a different timing cover with some sort of reinforcement in the cam button area? How long do those little nylon buttons last anyways? What about a fuel pump lobe? I know they sell a roller tipped fuel pump pushrod setup but I don't think I have ever actually seen anybody use one. Anything else I need to consider?

I have used the 885's with good luck. Never used the 853's though. BTW my Comp Super Roller solid rollers are on their 3rd very hard year and still doing well. I know some haven't, but I have had good luck with all the Comp roller lifters I have used.

I use the Cloyes cast aluminum cover with adjustable button. Works fine but needs clearancing for short water pumps. Some aftermarket water pumps have a threaded hole and set screw with lock nut that serves as reinforcement for stamped steel covers. I think you would be OK without any real reinforcement but personally I like to err on the safe side.

I personally firmly believe in the two piece cam cores so either a roller fuel pump pushrod or a bronze tipped pushrod are a good idea. I may still have a bronze tipped one in the garage if you want to go that route. Just let me know and I could mail it out to you.

They also make a phenolic plastic rod that is safe for billet cams and lighter than the chrome molly brass tipped tube that I currently use. They also make a plastic distributor gear I am going to replace my brass gear with after I get through the next two I have hanging on the tool room wall. Though if you get a billet cam with an iron core gear that is unnecessary.

Larger Dave

I've been looking hard at converting my 388 to a hydraulic roller (comp cams 286HR).Anything else I need to consider?

I would highly recommend checking for lobe to connecting rod clearance which as you know is a concern on a 383. When I swapped cams, I was so worried about it I pulled the engine to check and also ordered my cam on a reduced base circle. Which brings up another point - I ordered my reduced BS cam on a steel core and Comp said that particular combo was NOT available with the pressed on iron gear. (At least that tech that day said so)I am using a Comp polymer gear.

In my current mule 355 motor I am running a Comp xr282hr with the 853 retro roller set up, no rev kit. This cam is a cast roller and I run the GM melonized gear. It been in motor for some 3 yrs and maybe more than 10K long distance cruise miles. I will be planning to use this set up in my new stroker with Compstar profiled rods. They are said to clear .600 cams, So far I have checked thru the cam journal holes and see not rod interference, but I will check again when I pull cam out for visual inspection and install into new motor. I will check for clearances.
As for cam button, I am using the two piece Cloyes Adjustable button cover and Hex A Just gear with the incapsulated bearing. No issues to date. All will be coming out for inspection end of Aug.

I ordered my reduced BS cam

How can I get a "reduced BS" cam?

Actually, there are quite a few things that I would like to order with this "reduced BS" option. :D

Sorry, just struck me as funny. :D

now back to your regularly scheduled program . . .

That's a good question, Eric. It seems when you call certain cam companies' tech lines you get increased BS.

:clonk:

When did they start spelling Sircle with a "C"? I was never informed!

I currently use that Cloyes timing cover with the adjustable cam button and it is slick!!! There was alittle frustration with the waterpump fitment but I got it all figured out know and it work s great. Me and a buddy ended up using the Edelbrock Victor Series water pump since it has the most room between the back of the pump and the cover. I ground down the heads of the screws on the back about 1/2 the size and it worked great.

Erik

I had only heard of using a bronze distributor gear and fuel pump push rod for a roller cam. Now there is PLASTIC?? That sounds SCARRY!!! What advantage is the plastic over bronze.

The plastic resin is self lubricating, and doesn't wear nearly as fast (should last seven times longer, or so I am told). They are all made by one company in Germany and imported here by the major cam companies.

Larger Dave

So if you use a cast core, do you still use a factory style steel fuel pump pushrod?
I didn't even think about the whole base sircle thing ;) My 294s had tons of clearance with my capscrew scat rods.

Do you guys have any part numbers for these "funny" timing sets and covers you are using?

Here is the cover
http://www.cloyes.com/HighPerformance/Products/QuickButton2pcTimingCover/tabid/182/Default.aspx

Here is the gear set
http://www.cloyes.com/HighPerformance/Products/HexAJustTrueRollerSets/tabid/180/Default.aspx

The new comp poly gear is tough and has better wear resistance than brass. It does cost more but after you change out two brass gears, you are even.

As for the cast core cam and fuel pump push rod, recommend you use the ultimate Comp roller tip push rod when using any mechanical fuel pump above stock volumes or pressures ( with this cast comp roller cam). The brass tip is second choice for me. .

Travis, the cast cam core uses a standard f/p pushrod like any other cam.

The Cloyes cover I use is 220-9-221 in Jegs. $95.

[QUOTE=Eric68;815122]Travis, the cast cam core uses a standard f/p pushrod like any other cam.



This is true , if you use stock fuel pump pressures and no 6 valve fuel pumps. I lost my fuel pump lobe using the 11-327 Edlebrock pump. I even went to the brass tipped later, but could no save. Maybe I just had a bad core? Maybe an islolated case. I dont think I am the only one that had this problem.

Interesting . . . I've used the both the Holley 110 mechanical and the Carter 172 mechanical without any trouble. Maybe I was lucky?

Just be carefull not to try an use the cam button with a cheap, thin chinese timing cover.. get a strong cast aluminum one.

Only if you re-inforce it OR use a bolt offa the back of the w/p rear plate...

pdq67

Step up to Crane.

Step up to Crane.


Step what up to Crane?

Hey Eric68, with that Cloyed timing cover can you pull the cam and gear out without removing the cover. I looked on their website and it looks like you can pull the cam, but it doesn't look like the hole is big enough to fit the gear thru??

Right, the cam will not come thru that hole much less the gear. . You can advance/retard only. You prolly need the two piece or Jessel for that.

i was going to use the roller ti f/p push rod but there is a bolt that you use to keep the rod in line with the cam. that bolt inserts on the lower left top threaded hole. but on my world 454 sbc every bolt hole is blind tapped except the water pump bolt holes. so i went with brass tip.

Steven

You can drill and tap that hole, but you need to plug the hole going to oil pan to keep trash from falling into pan. Grease will help contain. I had problems with my cast roller cam, lost the fuel pump lobe anyway. I will consider this roller tip push rod on next cam. It will be billet anyway.