Hey All,

I am in need of some help. I have a 95 Camaro, V6 3.4 (all stock) and it tends to overheat and makes a ticking sound. The temp gauge on my dash will sometimes reach ~230 before the fan will kick on (only after swapping the relay for the cooling fan, before it wouldn't come on at all). Also, sometimes the engine will tick... and my Oil gauge will sit close to the lowest white line before the red line, and other times the gauge will sit at the half way point, and it seems to stop ticking (I think it goes from 0-80 on the readout). However, the oil is full, as well as the engine coolant. Any ideas? I'm not really a mechanic (I do computer tech support for GM) but I do have people that are more fluent, so the more detail I can get would be great. pictures are even nicer if possible.

Thanks,
Dave

dont panic...Im thinkin...

fast reply, nice to know I have ppl on top of things :)

The fan turn on temp is correct. GM programmed it to come on 225*-235*F. All fans should be on when DEF or MAX A/C is selected. Be sure all the air dams and deflectors are in place as they get older, the shields break off and this will allow recycled air through the radiator.

The oil pressure is dropping because of hotter oil. The oil itself is the major cooler of the engine. The antifreeze cools the heads, the oil cools the block. As long as you keep a good brand of oil and keep it at the full mark, yiou will do fine. You might consider changing the oil & filter soon because it does become cooked. Smell the dipstick when the oil is hot, if it smells burnt, time to change.

Another aid you might do is the spray from behind, the radiator and A/C condensor with the garden hose. Road debris and bug guts don't do alot of good for air flow. If you have some 409 or Mr. Clean, spray some on, let it soak for 5-10 minutes, then rinse off. Spraying from the engine side of the radiator reverse flushes the fins.

Keep a good radiator cap on the system. The best way to determine if the cap is good is to squeeze the upper hose when the engine is hot quickly. The hose should feel very tight to squeeze. If tight, good system totally, no leaks. If no tightness, either/both a bad radiator cap or a leak in the system.

Check the reservior tank for leaks. If there are no leaks in the tank, is there coolant? If no coolant, put some in, read Owner's Manual for type. Does reservior level stay consistent over a couple days? Do you need to add some? If you do, can you see a leak? if coolant level was down, and you see no leaks, then the coolant in the system is purging itself of air. Air goes out, coolant goes in.

When was the last time the coolant system flushed, radiator cleaned internally/replaced, hoses/thermostat/belts changed? This would include removing the block drain plugs and doing a total flushing?

Sorry to ramble on, but there are points to check.

Welcome to the Club from the Beach!

The Radiator hose is firm, so no worries there. The Serpentine belt was just replaced ~year ago because it was cracked and I was worried that it would snap. I am actually changing the oil & filters today. but I can not remember if the coolant has ever been flushed. The car has roughly 156,000 miles on it so I usually use Max Life High Mileage oil, is there a better kind? I'm also told that there is some kind of oil filter that has some time release gel for high mileage cars, to help clean the oil...

I'm mostly worried about the ticking noise, I have been told that it was the oil before by someone... but last time I got it done, it stopped ticking for ~3min after an oil change and then started again.

The Radiator hose is firm, so no worries there. The Serpentine belt was just replaced ~year ago because it was cracked and I was worried that it would snap.Good!I'm also told that there is some kind of oil filter that has some time release gel for high mileage cars, to help clean the oil...Smoke & mirrors. I ain't never seen it. Use a good brand of oil and should be no problem.

Well I was wondering about that filter too... sounded kinda funny to me as well. I got my oil changed with Valvoline Max Life (Full Synthetic) for High Mileage... and that seems to be doing wonders (so far) over the standard Max Life oil. The new Full Synthetic seems to keep the oil pressure up more, but still will randomly fall in pressure. could my oil pump be going bad?

mechanical pumps that havent been touched from the factory usually are pretty good. Not real sure thats the problem. the ticking is prob from the oil getting hot. Everett's pretty smart cookie take his advice and get back to us...:thumbsup:
Motor being a little warm CAN make the oil press bounce a little at times depending on its life, viscosity, type.

As said by Harley, mech pumps seldom go bad unless a positive displacement pump gets deadheaded with no relief, then they explode unless the pump drive breaks first.

What the gauge is indicating is resistance to flow defining pressure. Bearing clearance has increased. As long as the pump can supply oil to the bearings, the engine will continue to run with no problems. The cooler the oil, the thicker it is, more pressure.

Typical bearing clearance is about the size of a human hair. The oil flowing through it keeps the bearing clean, lubes it, and keeps the bearing shells and the associated journal cool. As the oil gets thrown off the crankshaft as it spins, the oil lands upon the cylinder walls for piston lubing & cooling, and onto the camshaft lobes for lubing the lifters and cooling both, hence the term: splash lubrication.

A rule of thumb on oil pressure, 10 PSIG for every 1K rpm is sufficient. You might even have a mechanical gauge installed to compare with the electric gauge. Elec sending units do go bad.

Thanks, Harley for the 'smart cookie' compliment.

thanks for the info, as for the coolant issue... I believe that to be solved by replacing a sensor and flushing the system.

The ticking still remains even after changing the oil... however, it is much reduced since I have switched to the MaxLife Full Synthetic, and has only started ticking on me on 3 occations this past week (was on vacation) when usually it would every day. As well the PSI has stayed ~40 but sometimes will still randomly drop very low and will tick.

Oh.. I found the info on that Oil filter I mentioned, that releases the gel over time... (http://www.fram.com/products/oilFilters.php?setCountry=USA)

What should be the next step?

Thanks,
Dave

Dump a quart of Marvel Mystery oil in there and see what that does....Everett maybe that seafoam(?) stuff? heard thats good as well....
Have the heads or cam ever been messed with or the car has sit for a long time? did I miss that? Maybe a rocker off center?

hmm sounds like the lifters need adjustment (ticking)

Never heard of the mystery oil... but I have heard of the seafoam and have used it for my oil as well as the gas in the past. I should probably try some more now that I have the new oil in.

The car does get stored every winter until spring, but the internals of the engine have never been messed with.

Dump a quart of Marvel Mystery oil in there and see what that does....Everett maybe that seafoam(?) stuff? heard thats good as well.... ?Might use either one to see if the dirt gets out of the lifter. I've used MMO and over 3 oil changes every 1K miles each with a qt of MMO in each, I was able to quiet a noisy 327 with OE lifters.

Alot of good ideas. Especially by ol back to basics Everett. Introducing full synthetic to a 156,000 mile engine?? I would think, depending on how sludged up the engine is, might not want to break too much loose. Thinking wear reason for ticking. Marvel Mystery is topend lubricant that can be added to oil and or gas. Probably works, been around for a long time. I used it back when lead disappeared and didn't have hardened exhaust valves. A man named Smokey Unick, (not sure of spelling) great race engine builder's rule of thumb for a hi performance engine was 10 lbs. oil pressure for every 1000 rpms. Don't worry if your street V6 or any other street engine doesn't pull this off. He wants to see this for the upper stratosphere. Happy Motoring!

I've been looking around for the 'Marvel Mystery oil' and haven't been able to locate any in the shops around here... any ideas of what stores carry this?
...and do I just add it to my oil, even though my oil is already full?

also, I saw a product called 'Engine Flush' that is apparently supposed to clean the oil system...
Putting the product in for 5min and letting it idle then changing the oil and filter. Any incite on this product, or if it may help as well?

Thanks,
Dave

I saw MM at a NAPA auto yesterday.

I saw MM at a NAPA auto yesterday.
I went over to NAPA and got some...
I put it in my oil and it has been about 175miles... and still ticks..
(car oil pressure drops to ~15, car starts getting warm and ticking...)
:pout:

Anyone have any more ideas?

and still ticks..(car oil pressure drops to ~15, car starts getting warm and ticking...)It's not an overnight fix to clean lifters internally. It takes a couple oil changes, if the tick is coming from the lifters.

If tick is coming from crankcase area, then you have a more serious problem.

Fifteen PSIG of oil pressure at what rpm & engine temp?

As well the PSI has stayed ~40 but sometimes will still randomly drop very low and will tick.

Thanks,
DaveIf this happens, I would suspect a weak oil pressure relief in the oil pump. Or, a clogged oil pickup screen, or clogged oil drain back holes in the block/heads.

Or engine rpm stumbles and drops.

Fifteen PSIG of oil pressure at what rpm & engine temp?
> This would be at or near Idle. ~1k RPM. temp veries usualy starts when the temp actually registers on my very first line, think it is 180. but will clime even more if I just let it idle

If tick is coming from crankcase area, then you have a more serious problem.
> This sounds seem like it is coming from the top of the engine, so I would assume it would be the lifter area. (I was reading another post here, and it said spark plugs can possibly cause a sound that sounds like metal on metal if the are faulty?!)

Or engine rpm stumbles and drops.
> My rpm as always kinda sputtered, nothing drastic though (maybe 1-2 lines). To me, the engine sounds very healthy when it is not ticking.

I have just pushed ~1100mi since my last oil change. I also added some of the Mistery Oil for ~300mi now. The problem still exists, so what would you suggest I do at this point? Let it be for a while longer? Get another oil change?... use some of the engine flush stuff in my oil, then change it? Change sparks & wires? buy a new car? Buy a solar powered vespa (lol, jk)?

Thanks

Spark plugs can if not tighten.

The 15 PSI at idle is good.

If engine ticks and runs rough for about 10-30 seconds, then no tick and smooths out, it reads like a faulty hydraulic lifter, a flat spot on the check ball or some floating debris on the seat inside the lifter, depending on design. Only fix is to have all lifters changed.

However, at 1500 miles, I'd change oil & filter again and use a good brand. I always found Mobil 10W30 petro-based oil worked very well for cleaning. I'd stay away from any engine flush. Run another 1000-1200 miles and change again. You're trying to clean out the lifters. Over their life, they collect dirt cause there really isn't any oil flow through them, other than leakage between the outer body and inner body.

Buying a new car MAY alleviate some problems. I'd buy plenty of Vespa stock.

If engine ticks and runs rough for about 10-30 seconds Nope, the engine remains stable reguardless of if it is ticking or not. I was mearly stating that I've had the car for 6 years, and it is one of the cars that you can tell are running (aka, just a little vibration), unlike the cars nowadays you dont even know are on.. :P

The past couple days it has been a bit chilly here (~58%F) and I seem to have more oil pressure than I have in the past, ~50psi at Idle, however, once the engine warms up....:( sometime will go back to ~10psi and start ticking. I get paid on friday an have hit ~1700mi since my last oil change... I'm thinking its about time to get it changed again...

Oil change won't hurt.